There are several threads on this theme in the archives, so forgive the redundancy to the extent it is present. However, I would dig some input on a current project my boy John the Gull Phillips and I are collaborating on.
This thread will be different from the archival threads in that I will actually build this board and post the info here as I go.
THE SURFER: You may recall the Gull from my POSSUP thread. He’s the guy I turned the leaf blower on and who pretended to be Carve Nalu in my garage. John is the purest soul surfer you’ll ever meet. He loves surfing. He will try to surf in anything. He could care less about what anyone thinks of his style, equipment, or appearance.
John is 29, weighs 195lb, and is 6’ tall. He’s been surfing for 10 years. He favors his front foot. His style is trim oriented. He does not do hard backfooted hacks or turns. He swoops and banks and throws the odd drawn out roundhouse on the shoulder. His goal is to ride waves as long and far as possible.
His quiver is expansive and features various fishes, single fins, and other alternative designs.
THE WAVE: Beach break. Knee high or less. Crumbly. Onshore. Sectiony. Alternating steep and flat sections. Short period. Imagine small, locally generated wind chop at the very bottom threshold of what is remotely rideable. Longboardable but no fun on LB because of chop and sections.
OBJECTIVE: Catch the above described wave and ride it as far as possible. Coast or pump through flat sections. Generate speed through rider input where possible but trim as well. Basically, the goal is ride to the unrideable… tiny, tiny breaking waves… on as small a board as possible. John has a wicked quiver. This board only needs to do this one specific thing. Over knee high and he’s going to ride something else. He wants it in the 6’ range for ease of transport.
THE BOARD: An outline of our current plan follows. This plan is based upon my experience as an East Coast US surfer and foam whittler as well as some serious archive scouring.
PLANSHAPE: Our proposed planshape is taken from a ‘pigfish’ shaped by John Mel circa 2000 to 2001. I’ve added an extra inch of width to this planshape to yield a 23.5 inch wide board. I don’t have the nose and tail measurements with me. I’ll update. They will be massive. The outline has a swallow tail… probably 4 to 5 inches deep. Rails are fairly parallel. I would guess the tail is about 10 to 11 inches pin to pin. I know we loose a bit of planning area with the swallow, but John is quite attached to the swallow for some reason. I think it’s just that all his boards that work the best for him have a swallow.
FOIL: Max thickness is planned at 2.75 ‘’. I was thinking of thinning out the nose quite a bit… sort of like a regular chip. I was thinking of leaving the tail rather thick.
ROCKER: I was thinking nearly dead flat from front foot to back foot. Entry rocker gradual maxing at 4 inches most of which occurs in the last 12’’ near the nose. Tail rocker… perhaps 1 inch?
RAIL SHAPE: Relatively thin rails as compared to thickness but boxy. Down hard in the rear 2/3 of board blending to crisp 45 degree bevel in front third to nose (about 1/4 inch wide at most) and keeping bevel edges sharp.
BOTTOM CONTOUR: flat_____________________________
FINS: chipfish style converter. Set for twin, quad, twinzer, or thruster, or five. This will be one flexible experimentation area.
MATERIALS: 2.5 lb/yd2 density eps. balsa center stringer. wnc blank. double 6 deck single 6 bottom S cloth lamination. greenroom epoxy resin.
So… I would like to hear some thoughts from the boys on this project and my proposed plan. All insight is appreciated although I’m particularly interested in rockering and rail shape perspectives. Thanks in advance.