some kook tried to cut off a friend of mine today, failed miserably, and then lost his board…AND IT CRACKED ME IN THE HEAD!!! and then had the nerve to start cursing at me and the guy he tried to cut off. i wish people like this would find some other way to spend their days.
on a brighter note, it was waist high and clean.
(sorry…my head is still throbbing…so i felt the need to vent…hoping it will make the swelling go down)
sounds like a prime candidate for a good’ole fashion ass-whippin…
yeah i had another guy bark around me the other day…it was breaking hard and i buckled a brand new composite i made…most of the guys in the small crowd weren’t going for it…but thats when I light up…this guy seemed pissed that I was going for it and catchin too many waves…perhaps at his expense…I yield often but you gotta earn it first
that sucks, I hate it when thers no sorry my fault are you ok. at least the surf was good it sucks here today (S.D.) 16 knotts
that is soooo f#%ed up…hope your head is ok tomorrow…as for
that kook he must be a retard or his got some sort of disorder…
yeah…i’m pretty mellow in the water…but when that kinda negativity invades my happy place it totally throws off my chi. having people like that in the water is bad feng shui. there’s a lot of people around here that are still in the learning phases, and you expect things like that to happen on occasion…but when it’s followed by a “F___ YOU!..you’re head might have dinged my crappy board!!!” instead of an apology, that’s what really gets to me. i guess some people just suck at life.
if i ever have any feeling i may have fucked some ones ride wile i am out in the water no matter if i paddling out or what i always try to make sure i apologize.however, repeated deliberate droppings in require reprisal and that won’t be apologized for(i bodyboard it happens a lot , watch your leash!)
Yeah, there are a lot of people with bad attitudes in the surf these days. I accept it at high performance waves or spots with crowds, but some places it’s completely out of line, especially San Onofre. One day there was this lady out there who must have been close to sixty, with long dark hair, and was barking at everyone. So, I paddle up to her and say, “You know, this spot has over seventy years of history to it, and one of the classic traits is that people here share waves.”
This got her angrier for two reasons. 1. She HAD been surfing there since before I was born, and 2. She disagreed. She said, “no, no, no. I don’t think so.”
I said, “Well, then, I’ll make sure to avoid YOUR waves, but the ones I catch are open to anyone. I don’t care.”
And I don’t. I don’t mind sharing a wave, even when I shortboard. It’s FUN to ride with others, as long as you are a bit careful. The only time I get mad is when I shortboard and am moving VERY fast down the line, setting up a move, and then someone drops in. Even then, however, I usually either pass them by, watching them fall as they see are shocked that someone was actually on the wave. Or I crowd them so that they can’t enjoy the wave. But I only do that if it’s absolutely a blatant snake. If some beginner cuts me off, I simply cut out and let him have the wave. God knows he had enough trouble catching the thing. Took all his effort.
Waves are ripples on the water. There will be a lot more coming soon. So relax and have fun.
And stop complaining about crowds. It’s EASY to get a spot to yourself anywhere in the world. Everytime I go to Oahu, I leave Honolulu and drive ALL the way around the island to get to the North Shore, and I must stop a dozen times to get out he binoculars and marvel at a lone peak way out there.
There’s plenty of surf in this world.
It’s time to start riding together again.
Miki Dora, by the way, is the one to blame for this. He made films that got everyone stoked about surfing, then complained when the BU got too crowded. So he started shooting his board at people. I know he’s dead, and it’s not very polite to speak ill of the dead, but let’s be honest. He started the bad vibes in the water.
Although I’m sure it would have happened anyway.
Let’s not attack each other in the lineup. We have better things to do…
Like attack women and children in the Middle East. 
hats of for mastering…you make the push…
that sucks man i hope the head is fellin better. i had a run in with a guy two summers ago up in ocean city md. and they have those surf restrictions during the day. so in a 12 mile strech of beach there are 2 blocks that are open during the day. so if the swell is even remotley good you end up with half the surfers in a tiny area.
the day was pretty crappy like knee high at best and there where only a few people out in the water. the waves where consistant and if you waited a minute a godd enough one would come in. this one guy made it his job to take off on every wave i did. so at first i paddled away to the other side of the surf beach to get on the other break. he then paddled over and started doing it again.
so i confronted him nicely and asked if we could kindly share the resources and stead of him fighting for all the waves. he then told me where to go and how to get there. so i went back to the other side.
thats when it happened, i caught my wave and was projecting down the face. he was on his way paddling out when he turned around and took off on the same wave.
we colided and he put a crack in my board.
he then started to yell at me and cuss me out and tell me that I was on his wave, and that kooks like me are the people that ruin surfing.
well he got his shortly after that. i paddled out waited for the next wave he took right. so i took of left on the same wave. pumped the board twice to pick up speed and jumped off and clotheslined him. and proceeded to beat the crap out of him under the water.
its probably the most agro and stupid thing i have ever done while surfing and its something i am not really proud of. but some times people like that need to learn there lesson. and it made me fell a lot better at the time
feel…not fell…while your talking about that kook in the line up, so is he …kick his ass it might be fun, forget it that could be just fine to…i came here to kick ass and ride waves ,and im all out of waves …no not really…
Some people are just socially retarded and do not know any better. Maybe he forgot to take his medication today. Perhaps he’s a kid and his testes recently decinded and he’s feeling it. Or, his old lady snickered at his little pee pee and he felt inclined to vent. Probably wasn’t the first time. Definately won’t be the last. Be careful. Glad you weren’t hurt badly. Mike
Brandon,
How about that! You had an adversarial surfing experience. Karma eh?
no, bill…not karma…just an asshole…after his bad attitude (which reminds me so much of your mentality), i asked him to leave…10 minutes later, when he was still there, me and everyone else in the water told him to leave…and he was gone. there was nothing adversarial about it…just one kook not being responsible for himself, putting out bad vibes toward everyone else. remind you of anyone you spend every minute of every day with?
Brandon,
Why so touchy. And why the necessity of “colorful” language? I found it ironic that you got a taste of what you believe surfing is not. And then get all puffed up about you and your friends kicking the fellow out of the water. No Brandon, I think it is Karma. Sorry about your injury though. Be reflective.
i’m sorry, bill. it’s just that the way you speak of the negative side of surfing makes it sound like you get a kick out of it. as for me “getting a taste of what i believe surfing is not”…this guy’s attitude is not what surfing is…it’s one person being a jerk. there are a lot of people in the world…and some of them will be jerks…and some of these jerks go surfing. unfortunately, not all of them can leave their bad attitudes on the beach. this guy was a making a good day bad for everyone…not just me…so we got him out of the water. personally, when the request goes unanswered, i like using the intimidation factor more than a fistfight in the shorebreak. is civility beyond us? he may have been a jerk, but him leaving with a broken jaw would do no more good than me leaving with a lump on my head. and if it makes you feel better to think that i’m an asshole to everyone and this guy was just karma coming back around to bite me in the butt, then by all means go ahead and think that…whatever makes you happy (however pessimistic it may be). and again, i’m sorry for taking a jab at you in my last post…but it does bother me that you seem to be such a strong proponent of negativity…especially while surfing…because that just isn’t the way it’s supposed to be.
Take deep breaths…
Count to ten…
Count your blessings…
Life is good…
Take deep breaths…
Count to ten…
Count your blessings…
Life is good…
and ignore flamebaits and
‘DON’T FEED THE TROLLS’ …I read it in the forum rules . [We can all learn from the emma / roy experiences /debacle , surely ! …the more you egg these people on , and respond to them , the more you play their game…
instead …