Has anyone has tried using Krylon’s Triple Thick Glaze for gloss coating? I read the MSDS from Krylon’s site and it states the following contents (by weight)
14% Propane
13% Butane
31% Toluene
25% Acetone
The Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear contains similar chemicals. I’m not a chemical guy and I’m wondering if it’s safe over Resin Research Epoxy and acrylic paints.
I found this website dedicated in restoring pinball machines and they use it for saving the backglass paint on old machines, http://www.marvin3m.com/restore/index1.htm#bg interesting read too.
I’ve used the Krylon crystal clear over RR as a sealer with apparent success. I applied it to RR fill coat sanded to 60 grit via rattlecan. Not pretty but I think it gets the job done.
I’ve used Crystal Clear before, I find it too thin and must apply multiple times to get some appreciable surface gloss. Just curious about the “Triple Thick” it might get me there faster cause I’m lazy. ; P
Sorry, I meant the surface was scuffed with 60 prior to applying the krylon. I haven’t tried sanding the krylon.
I have glossed a few boards with UPOL clear no 1. That stuff works great but, I believe, is extremely bad for you. It is also expensive at 15 bucks a can. A single can seems sufficient for 1 short board in the 6 foot range. Not sure how that might compare to the krylon triple thick cost wise. I get the UPOL from an autopaint warehouse.
I’ve tried it on dings and I didn’t like it much. It could have been the way I did it or the humidity or something, but going on that thick it seemed a little cloudy in color and didn’t get hard enough that would take any kind of fine sanding or polishing. At least that’s the way it seemed to me. I have no idea if this is typical.
RR is 100% solids…no nasty solvents. Many products use solvents to reduce viscosity…especially in spray applications. I try to avoid using any spray with solvents.
If you must, spray outside, avoid all contact and wear a respirator.
I used the Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear yesterday on my new board. It’s RR Epoxy and it seems to cover pretty well, but 2 coats and I’m still not at anything resembling a gloss. It seemed to rough up the deck too. I sanded both sides to 600 figuring I might leave it as a sanded finish, but I wanted to seal the pen pinlines, and now the top feels a lot different from the bottom, which has yet to be coated.
What I’m think of trying now is Helmsman spar varnish. It’s used a lot on boats on brightwork and has UV inhibitors and the like. It comes in a can and a spray and has a gloss finish. The only problem is that it takes 24 hours to dry.
Same experience I had with “Crystal Clear” that’s what led me to “Triple Thick Glaze”. I’ll most likely try it this weekend and report back fo comparison.
Tried Minwax Spar Urethane spray gloss on the bottom of my board yesterday. It doesn’t have the look or depth of gloss resin, but the UV protection seems like a good trade-off. The only big thing is that it has a light yellow tint to it, and so would probably make a new clear board look aged. It yellowed the white streaks in my resin swirl, so I don’t think I’m going to try it on the white deck.
I had similar results over standard resin. 2 or more coats and nothing that looked like gloss. In fact it was terribly uneven, and I’m pretty good with a spray can.
I would never go near the stuff again. Good way to ruin a finish and make a lot of work for yourself sanding it off again if you ask me.
Well I tried it and I was extremely disappointed. It came out uneven and the over spray made it look worse. The overspray was dry when it hit the board so I had lots of dried spotchy areas and wet glossy areas.
Howzit ozzy, If a gloss finish look is what you want use spray lacquer, put on a few coats letting it dry completely between coats and then you can actually rub it out to a shine.Aloha,Kokua
What really ends up working the best for me on small to medium sized dings, with all the other factors considered, is just sanding it good and smooth, hitting it with dry finer grits a little, then polishing it without worrying about a gloss coat. The weave shows a little from the patch cloth, but with the sanding resin polished, it’s hardly noticeable. I (usually) just do that on a glossed board for a little more than the price of a sanded finish. Large dings and whole boards are another story though.
I read recently on a thread here; Jensen’s Javelin … I think, that he used dupont’s Imron gloss on top of epoxy. It looked really sweet in the picture.
I just finished a glosscoat on my latest board with RR epoxy and it came out pretty nice. Hit it with 800 and 1000 wet sandpaper, and will polish it up this week, see if it will have the ‘showroom’ finish.
I’ve used the acrylic Krylon clear over repairs, and didn’t like the durability. It’s not really rated for exterior use as far as regular paints go. I’ve been using spray can stuff from Vaspar called “American Tradition - Ultra Clear” (acrylic). This stuff is about $3 / can and I’ve only found it at Lowes. The can says interior/exterior, and I’ve not had it wear off anything yet (about 3 years). It comes in satin or gloss finish. For shortboards, I use the satin and leave it. For glossed longboards I use the gloss version, let a dry for a day and compound polish it. The trick to getting it to spray evenly out of the can is to shake the can and put it in hot water for about 10 minutes. You can smooth out any mask lines or runs with #600 paper. It covers weave very well. However, if you’re doing whole boards, the best way to get a good finish is to use a spraygun and an automotive clearcoat.
