Howzit Greg, Being a poly guy for eons and using more than enough catalyst I would probably like using KK and iit's speedy kicking time. I think that a lot of the builders are just so used to the slow kick timing that the KK has been a little bit of a shock to them but in the end they will really like it. I once again commend you on your efforts to make a better product where some would not seen any reason to take it to the next level. Will get in touch.Aloha,Kokua
There is one other thing about doing the flats first. You need to get the fin boxes (if your using Fusions, Futures, O-Fishl etc) taken care of too cause if you come back to them after doing the laps it might be too late.
Dave
I once spilled too much F into one of my Kwik kick deck lams,like 10 times the recomended amount.It was my personal board so I mixed it up and used it anyway,it flowed out great and wet out the glass far better than the bottom lam but took twice as long to cure.My glassing room is a controled temp of 80*.The board is holding up well,should I not use so much F?Have there been any tests using KK with this much F in it?
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Have there been any tests using KK with this much F in it?
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Yes, one (that I know of....).
yeah, i love this epoxy. I used to like normal RR, but the quick times really suit me. Admittedly, I’m a poly production glasser so am pretty quick as a rule. However, I have altered my technique a little with epoxies. I don’t flood the flats like i do with poly. My pours are more controlled, and more often. I work out the flats, then pour a small strip along the top of the rail and pull that down the rails.
not saying its for everyone, but it works well for me.
great product Greg! just wish I could gloss with it…lol
Tacked up some fins today with KK and X55. Mixed up a microbatch in a dixie cup (by weight) and added a few drops of the accelerator. Let it sit in the cup until the first signs of smoke, then poured out a gooey drizzle to set the fins. Got the first one set, canted and secured, and by the time I got to the second fin, the drizzle was too solid to set the fin properly. Only took a matter of seconds for it go to from liquid to solid. I guess that’s the “C” stage? Totall skipped the “B” stage. Ambient temp was about 83F. Quickly sheared off the bead of resin with a razor blade, mixed up a new batch, and reset the fin.
Nothing I haven’t done before with poly. Just wanted to push the envelope and see what happens.
Have you tried glossing with it? I think I recall Greg saying in a previous thread that he prefers KK for glossing now…not positive on that one though…
I have seen a few quotes from Greg saying he was working
on a new Glossing resin that will be released sometime soon. It would be
great to get something similar to Resin X UV Clearcoat…something that
fills exposed weave and polishes easy, and is much lighter than doing a
gloss coat of KK.
It’ll be a gloss additive … soon … best used with KK. Thanks all for the kind words.
Greg,
What better product to think up!~?
Make sure to push it in Europe too.
Wouter
Another question I would like to add to this thread:
I am from Europe and it is winter right now, so the workshop I intend to laminate in is gonna be around 66° F (19° degrees celsius).
What should I do? From the answers above I read that the warmer the faster you have to work, so I hope I should have enough time. But will I run into problems when it’s too cold?
I intend to keep the kwik Kick on my heater in a warmer room for the 24h before the lamination, so the resin should be warmer when mixing. Is that a good idea?
Should I still microwave the resin?
I could move the board to a room with about 70°F after the first 30min or 40min. Would that make sense?
Thanks for any thoughts and tips about using KK in colder temps.
Just to mention how my lams went down. We did not microwave and worked in 66°/67° F. We hurried a lot, running around the board! Also we rather had a low amount of epoxy, so we did not have so much spare epoxy running down the laps to stick them under. Other than the huge stress within the 15min we had at hand, it worked out pretty well for our first lam ever.
I left the board in there over night and did not move the board.
What I would do different next time: make sure to really stick the laps completely to the board or do a cut-lap. I ended up with a lot of hard fibreglass on the deck from the bottom lam job which was very hard to sand down or cut. I did no manage to do that perfectly and one can see some irregularities through my deck lam from these laps.
For the hot coat, which we did also with kwik kick, it was a bit messier. But probably from contamination.
We ended up with a few fish eyes and some little holes or dimples. Not sure what was the cause.