DailyStoke.com: You don’t ever break out a shortboard?
Laird Hamilton: No. Nope. That would be a regression at this point. That’s like asking me to crawl. I’ve done that discipline and it’s…uninspiring. I got to a point where I hit a ceiling…and I’m not a buck-twenty-five where I can make speed on a one foot wave where I can fly or trick around. I’m a downhill guy. I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like…ballet for me.
In many ways I can relate. Haven’t been a “buck twenty five” since I was 16. But there are ways to “shortboard surf” even if you aren’t on a 6’ Slater model.
Heh- I dunno if I was ever a buck twenty five. Kinda shot past that, going from skinny adolescent to thug.
But...what Hamilton is saying is that little 'contest waves' don't cut it for him any more...and yeah, I can dig it. They don't do it for me either. Grovelling, I call it, when what's out in the ocean takes more than it has to give. 'Look, Maw, I'm a surfa' sort of thing.
Little days are a good time to get a fish. Striped bass or bluefish by choice...