Is it preferable to first use a laminating resin followed by a finishing (sanding) resin for basic ding repairs? Will the repair be stronger then just using a finishing (sanding) resin alone with fiberglass cloth? Lastly is there a ‘glossing’ resin or is that one in the same as finishing/sanding resin?
The remainder of the quart of finish resin that I have from Fiberglass Hawaii has a slight reddish hue/color to it. Has this resin turned bad and is too old to use for repairs?
Finish resin is gloss resin. Gloss resin is pink usually, or purple. Do you have some of dat?
Sanding resin is hotcoat resin. Sanding resin is greenish. Sanding resin wont turn red. It turns yellowish when you catslize it.
I repair like you, If I do a big delm, it’s in lam resin, then covered in sanding resin, then gloss resin, or UPOL #1 automotive clear coat once it’s all sanded smooth.
Thanks I think that answers it. I’ll have to get some Sanding Resin (I’ll skip the laminating resin). I wonder why Fiberglass Hawaii sold me Finishing Resin instead of Sanding Resin - hmmm?
Sounds like my Finishing/Glossing resinwith the reddish/pinkish hue is still good to use (if you’re saying that the slight tint in the product is normal).
So buy some Sanding/Hotcot resin and skip the Laminating resin???
ANYTIME you apply fiberglass it should be applied with laminating resin then topcoated with hotcoat(sanding) resin. Once sanded you gloss it with gloss (finishing) resin.
Got it - thanks JJR. I’l buy a qt of lam resin as well as a qt of hotcoat/sanding resin. I really like your Lokbox system. I ordered them on my last RNF Q copy by Dev. Wish all my older boards had it (don’t like FCS or Futures).
Any suggestions for mail ordering resin on the East Coast? Thanks again.
I use epoxy fro all my repairs so I don’t have the same problems, but when I used to use poly more I would use lam resin followed by sanding resing.
You can turn laminating resin to to sanding resin by adding a wax & styrene solution. You only need to add 4-6% wax and a small tin should only cost a few $. So its more cost effective to by lam resin and add the wax for a sanding coat than buy the seperate premixed sanding resin.
Old gloss resin turns brown, then its bad, it will still kick eventually but will stay brown, I’ve kept some repairs on crispy sun browned boards.
Johnny-------------I buy laminate resin only and a small can of wax additive(surfacing agent). When I need surfacing resin after laming a ding, I add a cap full to my container of lam resin and then catalyze. Buying the pre mixed is ok, but this way I only have to deal with one container of resin around the shop. I use Krylon clear for the fiish.
Thanks for the advice - that’s exactly what I’m going to do. I’ll order a qt of poly lam resin + wax additive so that I just need 1 container of resin as you stated. I still have my Finish resin for the final (3rd) coat. I’ll follow JJR 's instructions.
I’ll probably order from USComposites.com or Fiberglass Florida.
Some of the sites including US Composites out of FL indicate the ratio of resin to wax additive is 1 GL to 2 OZ. How much wax add. should I mix with lets say just 2 oz of resin for the 2nd coat (hotcoat)for a ding repair? A few drops / a teaspoon / a tablespoon/ more?