laminating rice paper on deck - all at once

Talking about the deck of a 9’8", 2 layers of 60z. cloth, polyester resin…

The placement of my “logos” are in spots that aren’t really condusive to pulling the top layer of fiberglass down from nose and/or tail to wet out the lam and then pull it back on(without getting a ton of air bubbles or bunched-up fiberglass).  If I place the rice paper between the layers and then lam by pouring a good amount of resin directly over the top layer of 6oz. fiberglass, and applying enough squeegee pressure, should the fiberglass>rice paper>fiberglass saturate ok?

Hope that made sense.  Thanks.

I’m no pro, but I sure wouldn’t attempt what you are describing.  You can’t squeegee resin under the logo from on top, unless maybe you’re using some kind of fabric, but not rice paper.  I have placed logos between layers of glass, sure, but that’s when the  layers are lammed separate, not all at once.  And I use the standard method, paint the resin where the logo goes, place the logo, glass over, pour resin on glass, and squeegee.  FWIW there is no place on a board I couldn’t apply a logo by this method, so not sure what you mean by “not conducive”???

What if a second person would be there to help place the glass back down while you ran a dry squeegee along it to help smooth it back in place? Then you could wet it out as normal.

I would do the logo under a patch of 4oz after the lam but before the hot coat.  This Is so much easier for the occasional board builder.  Once its sanded ad finished nobody will know you did it as a separate step.

Well, I couldn’t wait, so I went for it.  For what it’s worth, it worked out just fine.  I placed my two logos between the layers of 6oz. and started the lam by pouring a generous amount of resin directly over the two logos, working it in good with the squeegee, then proceeded as normal.  No air bubbles, no rice paper showing, nothing.  Worked out fine.  Thanks for the tips though.

What I meant by “not conducive” was…say you had a logo that you placed DIRECTLY in the center of a 9’8" over the first layer of glass.  In my experience, with longboards, is that once you wet out the logo and then pull the second layer ALL THE WAY back to the nose(or tail), you end up with the cloth bunching up, bubbles, etc…I’m sure it’s just a case of not enough experience, but I can’t stand wasting my (short)time trying to get the cloth to sit down nicely again after the resin has started to kick.  I need all the time I can get to saturate the board and get the rails nice and neat!  

Yep it will work just fines…see.  Resin saturates through rice paper fine. Epoxy would be another story.

Couldn’t wait 49 minutes?  Are you on the clock Mr S.?

 

Just my own clock.  You know how it is…You have everything ready to go, one hand on the catalyst, the other with a squeegee.  

Hey resinhead-

Glassing on a fiberglass fin(9.5" pivot)…

After lam has dried completely, tack fin on with resin/hotglue>Cut fin rope and lay saturated rope along each side of the base, flattening it out fore and aft of the fin>laminate large football patch on each side>laminate smaller football patch on each side, right?  Or would you recommend laying up a couple layers of glass on each side that cover the entire fin?  I don’t want a glass bead, just want to make it strong…Thanks.

 

P.S. - Please respond within 2 minutes.  ;)

 

Kidding, kidding…I kid.

You are a beast.  I want that thing glossed and polished by Fathersday. I ned to see my reflection…boich…I understand the self imposed deadlines.

I should hire you at 3M.

C’mon man…I need your input on glassing on the fin!!  If I can get that done tonight or tomorrow morning, I can have the board ready for gloss(or better yet, my buddy who owns an auto-shop will spray it for me) by Monday!  Thanks.  We need to get together again at Keiths for a day…Those were super fun times.

Well dog my cats, there’s another thing I didn’t know.  I want extra pay for working with epoxy!

I still have a hard time imagining that you could squeegee enough resin through the rice paper to wet out a layer of 6 oz. cloth beneath it!  Maybe its a small logo?  Just don’t know.  But hey, all’s well that ends well!

Not sure what’s going on, or if it’s just me, but certain threads show as “new” with a new reply(in this case, THIS thread, with Huck replying), but I see no reply from him.  I’ve cleared my cache, logged out and back in to Swaylocks, even rebooted…Nada.  Anyone else having this issue or is it just me??  

Hi Tenover, this is a glitch of the new format.  When I see a post and hit “reply” or “quote”, my post will show up in sequence right after the post I am quoting or replying to, not at the bottom of the thread, like it used to be.  If I just fill in the reply box at the bottom of the thread, my post will show up as the last, most recent post, like it used to be.  So now you may have to scroll around to find the new post, if its not at the bottom.

In this case, the post I recently made is now post #8, in “reply to post #7

Ahh…Gotcha.  Thanks Huck. I see your post now when I scroll back up.  The logos are about 8" long and 2" high(not small)…No problem wetting them out like I said.

so…are we gonna get to see some pics?

Yep, they’re right here…

http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/2014-noserider#comment-485425

very nice!

Thanks Huck.  Doing one noserider a year is just barely enough for me to remember the process.  I wish I had a place that I could shape and glass in!  All my glassing is going on outside, with some pretty good wind.  It’s, uhhh…“interesting” to say the least…I’ve had a lot of local surfers around San Diego offer to buy my old/current boards off me, so I’m at least able to recoup the cost of materials every year for the next board(I’m not a “quiver” guy, I like to have no more than two logs and one shortboard at any time)…

hey tenover putting the logo between layers is the standard way of doing things.