laminating with pigments

if i am going to pigment my board what is the ration of pigment to resin? and do i also pigment the sanding resin or only the laminating resin?

Laminating resin only. Coloring hot-coat resin will lead to irregular colored spots when sanding. I think that the correct ratio is no more than 10% pigment in resin.

Im no pro but I add a bit at a time and check the stir stick to see if its got enough tint or pigment

it depends on the pigments/tints you are using, and how deep you want your tints or how opaque you want your, um, opaques. you can usually load up on pigments but you must bump up your catalyst too or you’ll be waiting till next week to trim laps! you can also put a little bit of your colored resin on a small piece glass over scrape foam to see how your color will turn out before going for it. good luck! oh yeah…stick to coloring the lam resin :wink:

The more pigment you use in the lam, the weaker the layup will be. The pigment bodies disrupt the linking of the polymer chains as the resin sets up.

is there a difference between pigments and tints or do you just put in less pigment to get a more transparent color? and how opaque are pigments will i be able to see a logo if i put it under the lam?

Opaques have more of the pigment bodies, than tints. The challenge is to use enough to get the effect you want, without compromising the strength of the layup too severely. Darker colors, and white, in the layup will weaken it the most. With color layups, the laminates are sometimes put on top with clear lam resin prior to hotcoat. Sometimes with a 4 oz patch before hotcoat. Yellow tint is the least ‘‘offensive.’’ You just don’t need much to get good color. The best effect I’ve gotten was when I mixed the color, resin and catalyst, and ran it through a paint strainer before application. Makes the color more uniform, no streaks, or darker spots.

bills advice is spot on to the leter

thats one hundred years of advice between the two of us haa


While Bill may be correct to a degree, there isn’t anything to worry about. Obiwon is arguably the best color guy this coast has ever seen, and has a durability record to back it up. I go way out of my way to get his laminations, as do the Tudors , Channin and many more. Shops are practically fighting over him to get him in their doors. Also remember colored floors not being any easier to break up than clear ones…

hoppa bros.

you wont be missled by obiwon trust me he knows what hes talking about.

i know in your situation you are making a color you want so remember whats in the bucket might not be the color on the board. your best inducater is the color left behind on the strainer or the small amount of resin on the stir stick when you take it out of the bucket.


is there a difference between pigments and tints or do you just put in less pigment to get a more transparent color? and how opaque are pigments will i be able to see a logo if i put it under the lam?

Opaques get lams put on after in most cases. Tints as well I believe.

i am sorry but bills point of straining the colour

was a very important point

your man failed to mention that

& i was not having a go at him

what he said was also correct but he missed the point

about the strainer


your absolutely right Huie, totally forgot to tell him about strainers! i wont work without em.

goodluck on your board hoppa, what color are you doing it?


 you guys dont need to say much the pics tell it all 

more pics


im not totally positive yet but i was thinkin either a dark purple or dark green, but i was just doing some research before i messed up beyond fixing.

dark color will show EVERY imperfection in your blank. make sure there are no deep scratches before glassing.

Howzit Hoppabros, Soulstice is right about tints showing imperfections but tints also have a tendency to fade too some times a very ugly color, especially the newer tints on the market these days. Add a little bit of white pigment to your tint which can help prevent the fading. Sun light is a tints worst enemy.Aloha,Kokua

sounds good hoppabro…dont do too much research or you’ll never glass your board, just go for it! the path to a good color layup is thru a few shitty ones. save a little of your color for fixing stuff like, bubbles, and drainage. any more questions???

thanks for all of the information hopefully it turns out well.

when i strain the pigment do i have to strain it after or before i put it into the resin? and if its after i put it in the resin how do i preserve my strainer from getting ruined?