…I remember this shop from that book “Surfboards” in the Japanese edition. All boards there are machined so not my taste.
I m not new in this field but never saw this light/shadow technique to finish the lam.
I use sometimes a light to cut the lap in darker pigmented laminations etc but never shut off the main lights.
All the glasser there use this technique; if I remember I ll try it tomorrow and see if its worthwhile.
+1 Reverb!
Don’t really like seeing the “others”
However one can learn from the enemy
Fighting the bubbles in vector net this worth a try!
Thanks…
What ya think about this one???
Hi Reverb -
Does that look like a pretty ‘wet’ lam to you? I try to pull off more resin with the squeegee but what do I know?
I’ve used a spotlight when doing pigment laminations over a cutlap… when held underneath and focused upwards, I can sometimes (depending on opacity of the lamination) spot those tricky air bubbles that occur along the cut line. I know, I know… if the laps are prepped properly, this shouldn’t be an issue, but…
After that Youtube video, I caught THIS one. I think it’s a Chinese lady doing the work. She apparently spends a great deal of effort explaining what the hell the calipers and rocker stick are for - she certainly appears to be serious about the whole thing. Not sure if I agree with toe-in specs and I definitely don’t agree with how she handles a planer at 3:20. Unfortunately, I can’t read a word of the subtitles. It would probably be more entertaining if I could understand what’s being said!
In all fairness, she does appear to be an OK pattern maker but I doubt if she surfs.
I particularly like the skillful use of chopsticks!
Or swim!
“In all fairness, she does appear to be an OK pattern maker but I doubt if she surfs.”
…hello Mattwho, I think he finished with a board that weight too much and after a few sessions water filtrates between the carbon strip and the cut glass.
-Hello John, the other day I was thinking in that box fin, it is in use or still hanging around?
Yes, the lamination looks wet; I understand that the guy wants to prevent micro bubbles due to the paint etc but most of the times the problem is not in the bottom, possible problem is always in the deck, due to several factors.
With the bottom you can have those tiny bubbles in the rail and if you put boxes, you can have air bubbles and some tiny ones due to the patches, so if you want something wet, better there but not necessary on the bottom, no matter if its airbrushed.
So you can do a somewhat dry bottom lamination (checking the rails and the stringer/s in the first foot also depending on the foam quality and density) but you cannot do a dry deck lamination.
-regarding the other clip, I study Japanese; that s Japanese not Chinese, so the lady should be a Japanese one.
I cannot understand too much due to the Kanji, but the title is like “build your own surfboard” and is a publicity to sell this method for 150 Dollars.
Yes, too much toe in and extremely dangerous use of the planer; check her other hand!
The stands are too high and too thin for shaping and a long etc but hat off to that lady to try it; I do not see any real interest in women to be a crafty person…I do not saying that this girl could be one, due she s trying to sell a product, but really seems that she tried all by herself (you can see the sinuous rails in the nose, etc)
They lam and fill with same batch.
I’m hardly a master laminator, and my previous Work areas, mostly for repairs and laminating wood fins, have been outside under tarps and/or trees until more recently and results had suffered for lack of light.
I started taking to wearing a very bright LED headlamp in these electricity free outdoor areas.
Now, I have a pretty well lit workshop, with 8 foot dual fluorescent lights ~4 feet over my table where I am building a HWS, slowly.
I find that using the headlamp allows me to see things that I cannot with the bright flourescent regular lighting, such as micro bubbles, and dry spots and floating cloth. I do turn the overhead light off and walk around with the headlamp on my skull as the only light source, and find things that I simply could not see with the bright florescents above.
Also when mixing epoxy with just the tube lighting, I can see no swirls and think the epoxy is fully mixed, turn on the Headlamp and I see some swirls indicating the epoxy needs more mixing and cup scraping, sometimes significantly more so…
My headlamp claims to have 565 lumens on the brightest setting, but I usually use the next one down during important tasks with wet epoxy as 565 lumens is rather an obscene amount of light, and once the light heats up it cuts back maximum output to the next level down anyway.
A single car headlamp is about 1200 lumens if the 565 number means nothing to you.
It takes 18650 sized Lithium batteries 18mm diameter, 65mm long and they are 3.7 volts each nominal. It is a Nitecore HC50, about 50$ or so. This is a middling quality headlamp a few years old. Much higher quality ones exist with much higher lumen output, and some employ multiple cells and have them rest on the back of one’s head for better balance and longer battery life.
While I have purchased 4 high capacity 3400mAH Panasonic batteries for it at about 12$ each, I have about 14 lesser cells I salvaged from 9 cell laptop batteries which were 2100mAH capacity when new. Usually there is only one bad cell out of the 6 or 9 in the laptop battery, the rest still have a good amount of useable capacity left in them. These harvested cells have less than half the capacity of the Panasonic ncr18650bs remaining, but still last long enough for me to wet out a 6’11" interior panel on setting 4 out of 5.
This is not your average store bought LED headlamp one might be familiar with for camping, which might be 35 to 50 lumens with fresh AA batteries installed.
There are some dangers associated with lithium cells, they cannot just be treated like Alkalines or Nimh’s, and harvesting them from old laptop batteries one can short them out fairly easily, and these can dump a lot of amperage quickly when shorted, so care is needed. Tesla’s electric cars use the a couple hundred of these 18650 cells in series parallel.
The laptop batteries do not have button tops though, and the Nitecore HC50 requires a button top. I added a blob of solder to them.
I make a living doing finish carpentry and this light and an extra battery or 2 is always in my tool belt, or on my Head, and it gets used a lot, even when there is ‘plenty’ of ambient light already. This headlamp redefines ‘plenty’, and one still has 2 hands free, and there are headlamps which will blow this one away.
18650 cells require a special charger, and there are lots of cheap 18650 cells sold out there, which are sold as new but are likely just rewrapped used laptop cells( trustfire). Many cheapo 18650 flashlights come with chargers and these should not be trusted to not overcharge these cells. They should NOT be charged above 4.2 volts, and not be depleted below 2.7v or so.
I use a Nitecore I4v2 charger which is about 16$ and can do 4 cells at once, as well as multiple other size cells too, Nimh too.
Anyway, I now consider it an essential tool in building my HWS, even in a well lit area. Perhaps give it a try.
What the heck?.. dude mar from Del Mar… The flashlight will not make you a better glasser… blow out all your superfuses…
A simple room works fine for glassing… It’s a really Low Tech thing… Basic skills overpowered by overthinking…
Stingray.
Tried the flashlight deal today.
Interga and 4oz Warp.
Well???
Barely found enought bobo bubbles…
But I now have a cool LED flash light in my shop!
I’m always looking at different angles chasing around dry spots and bubbles. I might try the head lamp thing.
That’s a cool little board, matt! Mike
…as I said I tried shutting off the lights like those guys do in that shop, also with lights on (but this is something that I tested it several years ago with not too much enhance…)
-Airbrushed shapes.
I used a normal lamp; with the bottom lam you do not get anything new. With the deck lamination these guys have a point; I mean, the trick is to use the lamp (after the deck/rails lamination) at an angle almost and under the rails but still lightning all the rail to the deck. Works good that way, in the other positions, you cannot see what you need to see.
Thankz Mike!
My go @ “Mini Sim”
That lam looks way to wet.
A good trick to avoid air bubbles on the deck tuck is to paint the underside of the blank with resin before you start glassing.
