okay i just laminated the bottom of my board and everything went pretty smooth except for the tail. Its a rounded pin and i keep getting air bubbles on the sides of the rails near the end of the tail. I made a total of 3 relief cuts, one in the middle and two on the sides. No matter how mu i fiddle with it the bubbles keep coming back. im using uv resin and the board is in my room and still wet. Any ideas on how to fix it?
more cuts, i usually do about 3 on each side on rounded pins, pull it tight and kick it quick http://www.surfboardglassing.com
Could i pull off the lap and cut it again with more relif cuts? As a novice laminator it seems that would be a nightmare.
you could just pull back snip and add a tad of resin for it to re saturate. http://www.surfboardglassing.com
Howzit Jason, Did you dull the rail edge before glassing. I do only 1 relief cut on pin tails and have no problems with air. Fiberglass doesn’t like to wrap hard edges so you need to round off the edge before laminating. I use a piece of 220 grit paper, one pass should along the edge should be enough.Aloha, Kokua
Thanks Kokua! Yup my rail edges are 90 degree razor sharp hard edge on the bottom and right there is where im getting bubbles. No matter how much i squeegee or push and fiddle with it those little air bubbles keep coming back.
also, you ´ll got more problems if you use w- glass or s- glass
kokua’s right if you still want a razor sharp edge put it on when you hotcoat. also when you make your V cut in the cloth end your cut a quarter inch from the blank. do this and you will fully wrap the tail with no exposed foam
Godd pointers, take off that razor edge. Replace it with a slither of wet rovings before the sand coat, even a piece of narrow cloth at 90degree to the bottom, helps hold stuff in place. Razor sharp edges are in the sanding, not the shaping.
hi jason. your problem is encoutered by every beginner. first, you can not glass around a 90 deg edge. round the hard edge off slightly with the thumbnail first and fill it later with the fillercoat. second, timing. resin does not stick well to the foam when still fresh. wait before working the tricky bits like nose and tail. do it just before the resin goes off, watch the leftover in your bucket. third, preparation. at the beginning of the laminating process, brush a bit of resin on those tricky spots, this will help you later. this is normally done when putting the stickers on ond the glass on nose and tail is rolled back a bit. enjoy.
Thanks to everyone who responded to my questions. What i finally did was kick the resin in the sun and then dremeled the bubbles and filled with resin. I did the deck and made 2 relief cuts on each side and the tail came out much better. Anyway seems every board i do is much easier than the one before. Experience i.e. knowing what to do and what not to do and what to look for helps alot. Now if i can just figure out how to cut my laps straight.