First timer with RR kwik kik and love it, flippin times, odor, and workability is just like advertised, my problem was i used more than 2+ ounces per foot of board and seems extreme to me. the resin seemed a bit thicker than others, @ 73*f i had plenty of pot life, 5’5’’ 16-20-16 , 2lb stringerless and spackled, 3 sixes, one bottom and 2 deck and both of the sixes wrapped the rail for strength, 3’’ carbon/glass tape in place of the stringer,1% F for total mixtures, it feels a tad heavy but strong in the flex dept. I feel like we pulled a fair amount of resin out of the lam and any more was gonna make it dry,. Is carbon heavy? Lighten up on the glass?Pull out more resin? next board is 10’6 and cant afford a drum of this stuff… any suggestions from the epoxy gurus here? thanks in advance
thankks Brian, reminds me,i ought to post on the 'dumbest thing youve done"" couple months ago laminating on a cold morning i heated epoxy resin/hardner mix in the microwave. 74f to 175, 250 and leveled out. at 325f ‘’ in the yard" and hard.(shot with an infra red gun) well it was longer than 3 seconds and kicked faster than kwick kick . almost too shame to leave my name attached.
still searchin for the searchbox for the archives, thanks
Has anyone lammed with Fiberglass Hawaii Fast? Not the thick and fast, but just fast? Pot life 10 minutes, sandable in two hours?
A formula like that doesn't account for multiple layers of cloth. I try to calculate resin amount based on length, weight, and total number of layers of cloth.
Multiple layers of cloth are going to require more resin - plain and simple. None of the published resin amount recommendations on other websites have been adequate for me. I've always ended up mixing a second batch when I followed those.
I’ve built about 7 boards all using RR.
I am not a fan of KK for lamming due to the thickness of it.
That said, I have been convinced to give it another shot by Greg Loehr and Stingray.
According to GL, it’s significantly stronger than regular RR.
Secret to lamming with KK is to heat up the resin component to reduce the viscosity. I nuke it for 3 seconds per oz and it’s like water. Then I add the hardener. Soaks in quickly and moves fast over itself.
Makes KK kick Kwicker too!
Your usage is right on. For your 5’5" it seems like you used 12 oz of resin for the double 6 oz deck. That’s real good. How much poly would you have used?
~Brian
Thats what we use now as our standard epoxy.
Big fan. Only downfall is you cant mix with the other epoxies.
Hey Acqua,
How do you feel about the UV stability of the Aluzine, and the workability, compared to other epoxy resins?
mike, I’m no epoxy pro but even I figured out that you can’t heat up the mixed epoxy/hardener… only the epoxy itself… and if you do overheat the resin itself (too long in the nuker) then let it sit a while till its cooled down to “just warm not hot”… heating significantly affects the viscosity too, for anyone who thinks the stuff is too thick to work with.
I nuke KK (resin only) only for hot coats to get a more uniform flow. 3 seconds per oz, per Brian. Never saw the need to do it for lams. My room is regulated at room temp (68-70F). At these temps it doesn’t kick so kwick. Usually about 3 hours before I’d sand or lap grind.
SO Far Pretty good. I see some of the first ones we did regularly and they still look great. One we did on Arctic still looks the brightest by far but I think thats more attributed to the foam at this point.
Fiberglass Hawaii Aluzine is good. Been using it since 2004 with both the fast and the slow hardener. Seems to be holding up UV wise, but I don’t leave my boards in the sun. Also a lot of those boards were compsands using Balsa skins. One thing that happened was a red/pink tint faded quite a bit where sunlight was able to get to the board.
I don’t know of any FH epoxy that you can sand in 2 hours. But I haven’t used it for more than a year. I’m still trying to finish a large kit I got from someone else. Maybe if you heat cure it. We have glassed boards in almost 90 F using FH with fast hardener. Sometimes it will have tiny bubbles if it’s too hot or if you leave the board in the sun. We use slow for bagging and fast for glassing.
If you want to have fun and re-create an old board, use the FH 4 to 1 epoxy and let the UV get to it. It will turn brown like it was made years ago in a year or less. You can make modern “antiques” for artisitic value.
Instead of making another thread, and since this is a kwick kick related question… It would be extremely unwise to laminate or hotcoat without additive f right? I planned on finishing the board I was working on over my spring break, and I just checked on my chemicals and the additive f was on it’s side and it all spilled out and dried in the bag it was in. I suppose I’ll have to get more…
Stingray no microwave.
You would have to skip sand the laminate before hotcoating and sanding would be more work, but it’s doable. No worse than any other epoxy…