Our sailboards using Coremat were nice but I wouldn’t use it on a surfboard. Overkill really and you have a completely different set of circumstances when it comes to what a surfboard takes vs a sailboard. Surfboards don’t need a thick sandwich. There are so many disadvantages in building a beefed sandwich for little advantage in terms of strength. Thin veneers still give the best strength for a reasonable build. Going for more strength is just not nessasary, it’s practically bullet proof already. The timberflex boards I have last forever, are light, and feel great in a simple custom build. Shape it once, vac it once, your gold. What’s interesting about Soric is a different style of build. You look at the Libtech or the new Coil and there’s some very awesome stuff going on. You begin to consider building with infusion or RTM lite with inner laminate flow media it becomes interesting for sure. BTW, my custom shaped EPS/Coremat/carbon shower stall is really awesome. All trimmed in redwood. Sweet. Much still depends on application.
Huie, you probably thought it was cotton because its so comfy when sewn into a snuggy.
Oh no hard hammer hit, hammer hit flat like in vid, with same kind of hammer. In fact hammer bouncing on laminate.
Tougness of my skin came from:
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thickness : my skin are 2.5 time thicker than same weight of glass/resin.
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spreading energy: i use some kind of “energy absorber” in my laminate.
Veneers are effective, but some people don’t like look and i see many water problems with veneers boards. They are not so strong against “sharp” dings. Laminates with coremat kind prodcuts can be ultra tough.
Sorry for my franglish
haaaa’’ good one greg’’
its a funy thing that you showed them how to put a very good tech into a hp surfboard and get 3-4yrs out of it
done correctly it is a very good build for a better surfboard yet recently i notice its all about some stupid search for the holy grail?
surfboard evoulution once changed moves slowly once again last decade was the best for change for me and thats based on my last 50 odd yrs
the change has come its a matter of waiting for the poor sheeples to catch up all good
cheers huie
I just looked through this thread to see what was up and spewed my orange juice laughing. He’s not making this up.
yeah, Mike, there are some things that pop up here that I do actually know a little about…not much, but a few. Just trying to be cost conscious.
Oneula, I use three, approximately 3" long, 1/4" thick pieces of balsa epoxied orthogonal to each fin box long direction in slots routed all the way through the 0.75 lb. eps foam. The skins bond pretty well to both sides for a good support. Thank Greg Tate for posting that method years back. I finally cracked a box. I landed on a fin and it cracked the glass on either side.
we’ve been using large oval 1" deep corecel, last-a-foam and solid balsa inserts as well as balsa and bamboo strips in X or perpendicular orientation to the box direction in .75lb foam and still have box issues. I think you need to secure the box to the deck somehow like the old FCS plug install or to something wider at the base of the box to prevent these cracks or use a box that has a lip you can glass over with reinforcements.