I’m wondering what the most effective, least evasive tool is to take down laps? I’ve been using a dremel with a small grinding disc which works well and is easy to control, however on a white opaque job it tended to darken what I grounded by smearing some. I keep the disc in acetone when not using, but can see that after a few boards it has worn down some, maybe I need to use a new disc every time. Any suggestions? Thank you- gill
Gill: I use a small surform, or surform blade handheld. Make sure it is clean and as rustfree as you can get it or it will discolor the weave too. Clean them in acetone. You didn’t say whether this was a lap on foam or a lap over the bottom lam, so be careful around the foam. An angled air die grinder or the angle attachment for the Dremel works well too if you have one. There is a white grit sandpaper that will help keep the grit fallout more manageable too. Take a little time on your laps to clean them up nice and flat without the drips and you can save a lot of time. TS>>> I’m wondering what the most effective, least evasive tool is to take down > laps? I’ve been using a dremel with a small grinding disc which works well > and is easy to control, however on a white opaque job it tended to darken > what I grounded by smearing some. I keep the disc in acetone when not > using, but can see that after a few boards it has worn down some, maybe I > need to use a new disc every time. Any suggestions? Thank you- gill
Gill - Like Tom said, take your time and be diligent when squeegeeing your first lap. I make sure that it doesn’t kick too fast so I can have time to go over it and squeegee any resin that is over accumulating and forming drops or beads. Hanging threads I leave alone, dont screw with them as they are easy to cut off when it kicks. I’m to the point now where my laps are so smooth that all I’m doing is going through with a clean razor knife and running it down along any fiberglass strands sticking up and cutting a few threads off and maybe a bead of resin or two. No sanding or grinding at all! And am getting great results when I put on my next cloth layer, no air bubbles or discolorations on the lap. I like the knife b/c other methods I’ve tried will rip a bead of resin out with a chunk of foam, or smear and make things all gummy or gritty. I thought I saw a post a ways back of someone actually going back after they’ve lapped (while it hasn’t kicked) with a 1" brush and brushing on a thin coat of sanding resin so that they could sand down their lap without the gum up problem, I don’t know if this is a good idea or not? I like my method better. More Yen like. Do things good enough in one phase to eliminate the amount of work in the next. Problems and blemishes tend to carry on from step to step in surfboard making. It pays to do it right the first time.
I keep a pair of metal scissors at the ready while doing the laps and trim off “hangers” as I go. Gene Cooper from “Cooperfish” advised using a roller to press the overlap down a bit after it kicks but before it’s rock hard. I think that was for cut laps but it seems like it would help with a freelap too. Painting some lam resin on to blend in the overlap before laminating the other side helps as well. Soak the scissors and squeegee in acetone when you’re finished.