I was into my local surfshop the other day and I noticed that some boards you don’t see lap lines, specifically boards done with out any tint or pigment, just clear, in this case I think i was looking at a Chilli board. I always thought that you would notice the lap line if you didn’t hide it under a pinstripe? Or did I not look hard enough and it was just blended really well?
does it make much of a difference if it is poly or epoxy?
if you freelap it it can become near invisible
poly or epoxy,,, dont matter
the lap will be virtualy undetectable on a clear free lap
the razor will leave marks on a clear cut lapped board, you will see them here and there, mostly at the corners. nose and tail
its because it is silane glass
Howzit kensurf,Have you ever thought about those lines on a clear board actually being where the razor blade cut into the foam when cutting the glass and then resin fills in the slits in the foam so they look darker due to more resin. THat has always been my thinking on that,but I could be wrong. The only boards I did cut laps on were pigment and tinted boards,everything else was free lapped.Aloha,Kokua
It has to do with the type of cloth your using. Saline cloth wets out almost clear so it can be free lapped, like the chilli you were looking at. Volan cloth has a slight green finish to it, guys that build classic longboards or like that classic look use it. Since you can see the cloth after it's wetted out you have to do a cut lap so you have a nice, clean, even lap line.
I’m not sure what type of glass I’m using. It is this stuff http://greenlightsurfsupply.com/fiberglasscloth-6oz-30-yard-roll.aspx
I have one other question on sanding, after I do my second laminate layer but before the hot coat, do I sand the free lap to make it even then hot coat? So far all my boards have been cut laps with pigments so I have tried to keep the sanding to minimum on these layers so you don’t see the weave. This is my first attempt on a board that is completely clear. Thanks guys.
hey Kokua
yes I have
once I was cutting the lap and the blade got dull and was reeking havock on the foam as I was cutting
definetly noticed that cut lap,,, Ha,,, that one got a free pin line
Hi Max-Power -
There are several ways to skin the cat. Here's one way...
Wet the laps but before you tuck them under, take a pair of all-metal scissors to trim any hanging threads before tucking. That will save you some grief. Don't waste a lot of time on it if you're using catalyzed resin. I do this as I'm laminating both sides.
Once tucked and the resin is cured, flip the board and hit any high spots or ragged edges with a surform or coarse sanding disc. I like those 3M Rol Lok kind. Don't hit the foam.
Laminate the other side.
Apply a tape apron along the entire rail apex and 'baste' the lap area with catalyzed laminating resin. Just brush some catalyzed laminating resin along the lap edges. Once the baste coat cures, hot coat as usual. The baste coat helps fill in the step where the lap edge ends and is easier to sand smooth.
Don't forget to clean your scissors with acetone or they'll be trash.
I’ve found it more difficult to get an invisible lap with epoxy… but it’s much easier with poly. I think this is because epoxy is “water white” at best, and poly is pretty much clear. What I mean is, although you can’t see the lap LINE, free or cut, you can see the lap… it looks slightly darker or hazier. If you examine it closely, most times you can see it.
Also, if you hit your lap line with a surform, make sure there’s no rust or other contamination on it. If there is, you’ll have a bigger problem than a lap line.
hi John
thanks for the suggestions, I’m using epoxy so I don’t think i will ever get an invisible lap. But the tip on brushing some resin to ‘baste’ the lap I think will really help
Hi Max_Power -
On a recent longboard I free lapped a US Blanks with epoxy resin. It turned out pretty good - nearly invisible. With a polyester gloss coat to block UV yellowing, I think it'll be fine.
Howzit John,If you are as anal as I am about prepping my glass for free laps, there is no strands to deal with and the way I use my squeegee also helps. I have had people look at my free laps and think they are cut laps,takes time to learn how but worth it in the end.Aloha,Kokua
Hi Mike -
I'm all ears if you have the time?
PS... is it the method that involves building up tape and grinding the lap to the tape? That has worked good for me on solid opaque glass jobs. It knocks the high spots down to size and results in a clean edge at the same time.
Howzit John,I think you misunderstood me because I was talking about free laps.When I do tape off I only lay down 1 layer of tape where it will get cut. I think after doing tape off for many years you just get a feeling for where to cut the glass. The first time I heard of the dble tape off was here and it is probably a good idea but I have never tried it. When I cut my glass for fre laps I always make sure the shortest strand is in the middle of the rail and I pull that 1 strand and if by any chance I get another one out of whack I just pull it as I am finishing the rails,no loose strands and that is what makes them look like a taped off job. Aloha,Kokua