Wondering what the collective wisdom is around layering cloths of different strengths.
I’m planing on doing 6ozS and 4ozE on each side for some extra strength.
My plan is to put the 4oz layer down first, then the 6oz on top so that the 6oz laps the rails more and gives added strength.
Make sense or am I missing something…???
Thanks!
It makes sense.
Yes you are correct generally. But you need to give more info on what type of foam, density , size, resin to be used.
Some complain of certain brands/weaves of s glass that make it difficult to wrap rails, noses and tails with. It is all personal preference, but I know many who would put the e-glass on the out side to assist the s-glass to wrap better. Also many have found s-glass to be of no benefit for the extra cost of the product. The finish is also different with s-glass and the trained eye can spot it a mile away. But if you have it why not use it. 20 0z of glass on the rail would be plenty strong in most cases but with the lack of info about your board I would reserve that judgement until further info is provided.
don’t skimp on the resin either with the s glass. saturate it nicely to prevent dry spots usually noted the day after glassing.
I’m doing the same layout on my current project. I am putting the 4 oz. S as the outer layer. It makes hot coating so much easier and cleaner with less sanding. Just my style.
D
Thanks guys.
It is on 2# EPS, spackled and a little airbrushing. RR Epoxy.
I just finished up the bottom and it came out pretty dang clean. I have noticed that when doing RR over color on the S glass you really have to soak it in or you get whitish spots like you said OTAY. I saw a vid of Chipfish on youtube brushing the resin on and i’ve tried that route to much better results. After brushed and soaked in the color areas… i squeegee/spread to the white areas and the rails. seems to work good.
another little trick i tried (probably been done a million times) was to run a heat gun over the rails where the squeegeed resin was a bit frothy. whitish foamy bubbles popped right out and resin was clear again and ready to wrap the rails.
If you used long acting hardener go back and check it in 40 minutes or so.
I never used the heat gun technique but I will keep it in mind now.
put the s under the E so when its sanded you dont get the S glass nightmare.
I never used the heat gun technique but I will keep it in mind now.
also helpful with pinhole gas bubbles with wood/eps…
Lay down the 6oz first
the 4 oz is easier to hotcoat, less resin needed, flatter results
Thats what GL says too.
Thats what I was about to say, do this on my boards and have been very please with the results
Heat guns great on the hotcoat too. gets all the bubbles out, and helps flow out the brush lines.
put the s under the E so when its sanded you dont get the S glass nightmare.
What exactly is the s glass nightmare?
Also many have found s-glass to be of no benefit for the extra cost of the product. The finish is also different with s-glass and the trained eye can spot it a mile away.
I have heard it said that s glass is 15% stronger. Greg Leohr said more like 5% in reality. It added about $15 to the cost of my board so I tried it. When my cloth arrived (from U.S. Composites) I was wondering, “How do I know if they really sent me s-glass or if this isn’t just e glass?”
Could you enlighten us as to the visible difference between s and e?
if you sand into s it will scar the glass and never go away. if you try to gloss over it it will show and if you just leave it it will be rough not smooth.
and since the 6 oz is the s you have to put a thick fill coat to get the weave filled so when you sand it you wont hit the weave and since said board is being done with epoxy, the fill coat has plenty of time to drain and the nightmare shall begin.
Thanks for that info. Now I finally understand why my sand throughs never went away with the various gloss coats I’d tried (thinned epoxy, rattle can, waterbased urethanes). I always thought it was my gloss or the epoxy.
S-glass will always show up more than E, especially over dark colors. It stays very slightly opaque no matter how well it is saturated. On some boards it can make an airbrush look a bit like an opaque resin lamination. You have to decide if the cosmetic is more important than the structure. Compression strength is not noticably better when only one layer is used over typical foam densities, but tensional strength is definitely better. If you put 4oz over 6 oz, you will not be able to pull the resin out as much or you will end up with pin-air as the coarser weave will not allow the finer 4oz weave to lay flat as it would against the blank. Also it is harder to get enough resin through the finer weave to completely saturate the 6oz.
Better to clean up your laps and pay attention to applying an even hot-coat, then sand carefully to avoid sand-throughs. Having the 6oz S double-wrapped on the rails is enough of a strength benefit to be worth the extra time and care.
The first s glass I used was seconds military grade 10 oz for sailbaords. It had chromium in it and coming out of the bag it was slightly gray/light foggy opaque. All the board got epoxy spray color so you never knew. The s2 glass you probably got should do ok. But of course the weave, weight and finish and proper resin all determines the final finish. 4 oz s2 of most any weave on a white board would be hard to tell. Any weight over that I can tell.
As far as advantage, It seems over the years I have backed off tremendously on the glass schedule and when a roll of s-glass prices in at $800-1100 dollars my $175 roll of E is looking nice.
Also with all the s korean and other asian manufacturers in the glass business you have to know what you are buying. Wrong weave or finish or resins, the finish and strength will be possible off.