ok, so i realize there’s more than a few threads on this already, but i couldn’t find any with step by step pictures and it can’t hurt to have another right? so here goes in case anyone’s interested… also, this is only my second board and first leash loop so comments and critiques are definitely appreciated
lam a reinforcement patch–not sure if this is necessary but i figured it couldn’t hurt
rig something up to apply pressure to the rope in the butt crack because it tends to come off the board (in this case a camera tripod with small stir stick)
tape a stir stick to the fanned out rope on the bottom
i still haven’t tested it 'cause i’m waiting a few days for the resin to cure, but if anyone’s interested i’ll give an update on whether or not its still there in a couple sessions. anyway, hope this helps!
I know a surfer / shaper that lives in Troncones, Mexico. He does all fiberglass loops and the waves there do get pretty heavy and he says that are solid even in the big stuff.
Good job and pics. You can also do it across the crack and slightly below deck level to hide it from your foot, as shown. This one's done with no tape or straws, just free-hand by a guy who's done lots and lots of them. Usually do this on the sanded hotcoat and gloss over. Flared ends of rope are easier to sand flush outside the crack.
t3, I would think it’s totally fine… just wrap the rope around the back of the tail just like in the swallow or fan out 2 ends up on the top. should work… a nice change from a plug too
I do it similar, but on the deck now, and with carbon. I put a couple patches over the ends - helps flatten out the “spread,” and gives something to sand smooth without cutting into the fibers of the loop. Haven’t had any problems.
Another really good way to do it, is to NOT use the tongue depressor/pencil/masking tape under the roving, and just build a solid hump of roving. You can then hotcoat and gloss, and wait until you’ve finished the board and drill a hole through it. This is how I used to do it on longboards, and I think they are much stronger. Just make sure you build up a nice amount of roving.
In my experience, glass rope-loop and (on boards with a center box) drill-box leash attachments are the most reliable. But those of you who have spent years working in the industry have a larger sample to judge from than I do.
Good point on potentail pull-throughs, if you attach off a loop in the crack you have to make sure the rail saver is stuffed up against the loop to be effective. But I've got to have the attachment as far back as possible or I'll stand on it.
I have installed both bridge/loop style leash bumps on fish boards, as well as low and flush bumps for longboards with a hole drilled through and i think the main key to this is using fiberglass rope. Its really important to have a fiberglass footing down, but the rope will give you such a beautiful and naturally rounded shape instead of dealing with small strips of fiberglass. Plus the strands in the rope are real easy to fray and spread out to get a stronger footing or really mold the resin in any way you would like.
For bigger guys, it needs more contact area. Either a bigger fan or a patch placed over the loop with a cut to let the loop protrude. I’ve seen them fail, not often but once is enough.
For bigger guys, it needs more contact area. Either a bigger fan or a patch placed over the loop with a cut to let the loop protrude. I’ve seen them fail, not often but once is enough.
Girvin, I went horizontal too.But it was for a nap.
