After reading the awesome thread by ambrose regarding your first wave/what/where, it brought back memories of growing up in the ocean here in Hawaii and the many surf experiences I’ve been lucky enough to be part of over years which now span around 37 that I can remember… My Dad was an avid diver, liked to fish and had a sailboat in Haleiwa Harbor so going to the beach was a common thing for us. I never got on a surfboard till later but waves were the draw… Bodysurfing, oooooo yeah!
I was into bodysurfing alot then one day when I was around 10 or 11 I saw other kids at the Waikiki Wall riding wooden belly boards that we call Paipo boards. Man they were having fun! I dreamed of this for weeks wishing I had a Paipo board then eventually resigned to the fact that one would never fall out of the sky to me so I went ahead and started to make my own… With the go ahead from Grandpa to use a piece of his 3/4" plywood and his tools, I cut out a sorta thumbnail shaped board. All the edges were splintering so Gramps showed me how to round off the corners etc so I wouldn’t come home a bloody mess. I filed, sanded, surformed away till I had made safe, rounded edges… I had created what I felt was a design sufficient enough to ride waves at the Wall… I then spray painted it red and put a big silver spray paint lighting bolt on the top… I was stoked!!
This was around 1974 and I would ride the Bus across the island without adult supervision. Things sure were different then… I used to get a transfer and hop another bus at Hotel street or Ala Moana all for a dime. Anyway, the Wall was across the island and a 2 hour bus ride for me but I had a new board and stoke like never before… The anticipation was peaking but this day I would finally be able to satisfy it… When I arrived at the Wall it was perfect! 1 to 2’ and crystal clear water. The Wall its pretty much a closeout but hey, I only knew how to go straight anyway! I put my all blue Duck Feet on (Remember those?) and waddled down to the water and launched… The next 4 hours I was in Heaven! It was the first time I’ve ever been on a Paipo board and the first time I rode waves where I glided along for quite aways just tripping on the reef passing by clearly… I even rode a few where I was ahead of the curl on the face… Just a total mind blowing session better than I dreamed… The other thing I remember clearly was the insane belly rash from the unfinished plywood deck that had only spray paint… I still came home a bloody mess! Haha!!! But still stoked out of my mind… After that session the possibilies seemed endless…
Shortly afterwards they came out with the Morey Boogie Boards and for me, that opened the doors to the world of riding waves far and long tube rides… About the same time I fell madly in love with a used yellow 5’6" single fin in Da Surf Hut located in Wahiawa… I never stand up surfed yet but that board had me in its grip… But that’s another story… I know a lot of you guys have similar stories of significant surf sessions… I’d love to hear about yours…
Aloha…