Life goes on...........within and.............without me.................

-Had THE “best week” and THE “worst week” rolled up in one.

-Today,I am being interviwed for a cable T.V. extreme show.The taping is to be a rough draft to see what is to go and what was no.

-03/20/04 = Recreated the black fiberloaded fin:I got acrylic to bond to the buggers.Tom@Daum you’ll have to see these.I’m planning on making you a couple personal sets.The difference is like day and night,not to mention the pretty colors,and ceramic glaze that’s fused to them!

-03/24/.04 = Best air to date: in front of my peers on a head-high wave…An air boost in excess of 7 ft +++,landed it on the top of a pitching lip,and floated it in …3 point landing! would be proud !

-03/26/04 = Surfed a favorite spot known for it’s toxic contents:I contracted “something”.It started with a few darkspots on my cheeks and forehead.Now,today,it has engulfed my whole face…kinda looks like small pox or a real bad chemical burn.Hurts so bad I could kill…I wear a treated mask…but I wear it more so I don’t send people away screaming in mortal terror.

-Back to today= I planned on cancelling my interview,or to wear make-up to hide the hidious skin …that use to be my face…In stead,I talked with the interviewer and we both decided to make it public and to let people know about this…it hurts worst than it looks…nice thing is… people cross the street when they see me coming.

  • more to come or maybe not,take care friends,God Bless you all.Herb

So sorry to here of the chem burn. I applaud you for giving the interview and raising the bar on our sad situation w/ pollution. Looking that camera right in the eye will have a solid impact the will last a long time.

I have produced a small scale documentary on some of the displacement of surf shapers and the work place, and know that the power of the camera has lasting effects.

I hope you heal quickly. Congrats on the BIG AIR.

you are still beautiful to us herbivore… gods blessings to your recovery in fact as another ugly guy this could be an improvement a good picture would be worthy …how bout a locals only poster boy shot? we could make a fortune in T-shirts…call gotcha,o’neil’ , quicksliver this is great lets get a close up …oh no you are getting better …this could ruin the glomar explorer run to the mid pacific high to tow into floating polypropolene and plastic float flotsam…well at least you landed the air of a lifetime…ambrose…water’s clean down the street… stop over

What are they putting in the water where you live? It spins me out - Calif is one of the most beautiful spots on earth - but its environmental record is atrocious.

Get better soon Herb

Howzit Herb, I agree with Ambrose, you need a trip to Kauai’s clean water to flush out the toxins. Aloha, Kokua

high ho silver back lately they been puttin a lot of rain in the water over here paddled from blue water through green into brown and then back to green and surfed the green water for a couple hours before loading up the boards an coming home …took thomas from south carolina on a 5 mile paddle saw some unexpected big south waves real inconsistant but way out at lydgate park rode the twelve footers nobody out for miles and conditions so oblique absolutely no takers…writing a new program…ambrose…check the ben finney 1970 book mqp…of surf spots on kauai…ancient stuff is in the water too ,mana.

very smug ambrose, i paddle through 7 [=Black][=1]O [=Black][ 2]C water - helped by hard rain, grey skies and the odd seal. No matter, it’s always blue skies when I’m surfing.[/][/][/][/]

Taping the rough draft went great yesterday.

My face still hurts…it will be awhile before I can go surfing …I have to make sure it is completely healed.

This is an excellent time to finish some way over due boards and surf related stuff,

…Ambrose,Wild Dog…I’m long over due,I’ll be there soon.

Sad part,Having fear about surfing a longtime break.It wouldn’t be so bad if it didn’t break like Jeffries,or Kirra at times.Plus it’s the only place in So.Cal/No.O.C. that has 80+++ degree water year round.Herb

Hey Herb - gotta watch that bad water! I try to always check it out after a rain:

Hope you heal up quick, the surf is still decent size and its sunny…

Herb -

Hope everything heals up OK. Dermatologist might say keep out of the sun until you are better… sun exposure on damaged skin can lead to weird pigmentation issues as it heals.

Big Sur water is clean as far as I know.

Herb - Paint your face on the mask. :smiley:

Nah man…dont worry about your looks bro - plus like people says, it sends a message.


   Geeze, you should get a sample of whatever it was that chemically etched your face. Anything being dumped in that high of a concentration needs to be found and stopped. That's freaking scary. Sorry, to hear about your face. I hope it heals completely and quickly.


Life goes on, even though sometimes it’s not easy to understand why things happen the way they do.

Good luck and good health to you.


Sad part,Having fear about surfing a longtime break.It wouldn't be so bad if it didn't break like Jeffries,or Kirra at times.Plus it's the only place in So.Cal/No.O.C. that has 80+++ degree water year round.Herb

I think I know the spot you are talking about. I was always leery about stepping on the little brown nodules on the bottom. They felt like milk duds. I’ve never experienced those at any other surf spot in the world. There’s no telling what atrocities are going on upstream.

UCI graduate and professor examine water quality in northern Orange County. One says viruses, not bacteria, should be tracked.

Two new studies point to urban runoff as the delivery system for bacteria and viruses that make swimmers sick in northern Orange County.

A paper by a UC Irvine graduate, just published in the American Journal of Public Health, says that urban runoff sickened surfers using Newport and Huntington beaches nearly twice as often as those surfing in rural Santa Cruz County during the winter of 1998.

Another study by a UC Irvine professor, to be published later this month in the Journal of Applied Microbiology, says when looking for potential health hazards in water, the state would be better served looking for viruses rather than bacteria levels.

The studies are among a crop of recent research looking at the causes of pollution in Orange County’s coastal waters. Studies co-authored by UCI professor Stanley Grant, published online in late March by the American Chemical Society, criticized the state’s beach warning system as too slow to be effective, and on Thursday the Orange County Health Care Agency cautioned about fish contamination in Newport Bay based on preliminary results of a study still being completed by the Southern California Coastal Water Research Project.

“These findings certainly aren’t going to be a surprise to anybody who surfs in Orange County, but this is the first time it’s been quantified,” said Ryan Dwight, a 2001 UCI graduate who wrote the surfer sickness study for his PhD dissertation.

Dwight interviewed about 850 surfers about symptoms such as stomach pain, fever, cough and skin infections and correlated those with how often they were in the water during the winter in 1998 and 1999. His results showed that the more exposure to water surfers had per week, the more often they reported symptoms, he said.

Dwight used Santa Cruz County as a comparison area because it’s more rural and generally has better water quality and less runoff than Orange County. Surfers there reported fewer symptoms in both study years and reported close to half as many symptoms as Orange County surfers in 1998, when El Niño storms were blamed for spreading pollutants along the Orange County coast.

“What I think this study brings [to light] is quantified awareness of this health problem and the need to address it,” Dwight said. “Epidemiology studies need to be conducted with urban runoff.”

UCI environmental health, science and policy professor Sunny Jiang studied viruses in urban rivers in Southern California and concluded that current water-quality standards may not accurately depict the amount of viruses in the water.

Water-quality resources would be better spent searching for the sources of viruses in the water than looking for bacterial contamination, Jiang said.

“I feel like if we are spending millions of dollars treating indicator bacteria, which may be coming from multiple different sources including soil, we are spending money in the wrong place,” she said. “We could miss the target we’re looking for, which is preventing human diseases.”

Her study also notes that urban runoff, which carries viruses into coastal waters, should be managed better during storms to prevent illness.

Runoff from urban areas, which can carry nutrients from fertilizers and other chemicals, has often been targeted as the culprit in coastal pollution.

“That’s why we’re diverting 2 1/2 million gallons a day off the beach [into the sewer system], to try and minimize the impact of those discharges,” said Ken Theisen, an environmental scientist with the Santa Ana Regional Water Quality Control Board.

The water board is trying to stop runoff wherever it can, and other agencies also are working on the issue, he said.

Dwight’s study probably overestimates pollution levels in northern Orange County, but it is in the ballpark, Theisen said.

Solving runoff problems can be costly. Theisen estimates a $250,000 price tag per storm drain to control runoff, divert it to sewer systems, create a wetland treatment system or install filters.