I know this is kind of a stupid question but I’m a newbe and was wondering. When lining up the masonite template
,do you line it off the edge of the stringer or in the middle or does it not really matter? Thanks.
Unless you're a stickler for detail, it doesn't really matter as long as you do the same on both sides. Plenty of times I mark my dimensions at WP, nose and tail and just position the template(s) (I sometimes use more than one) to hit the marks. It might be short of the stringer or it might overlap.
With spin templates it absolutely doesn't matter. They won't line up on the stringer anyway.
It's the curve and dimensions you're after.
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It's the curve and dimensions you're after.
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But, use a snap line. Stringers can't be trusted to be straight.
Bill,
I know you are well respected for your craftsmanship, so I know I’m stepping out a little to challenge you, but as a building contractor/ carpenter fo thirty years now, I’ll take the liberty.
Firstly, you can not snap a chalk line accurately over a convex surface. You would need to use a straightedge.
Secondly, a chalk line leaves an 1/8" minimum wide line. Of the surface is porous, or the line is heavily chalked, it could go up to 1/4" wide. If the stringer is proud of the foam, the line would be pushed to the side by contact with the stringer. Not to mention the spilled glue.
And while I’m at it, I’d really like to see a build thread by you. Maybe a gun or semi gun?
We snap chalk lines on blanks EVERY day, but they are snapped on the deck and the line is never any wider than an 1/8th, this then is only a reference to where the actual centerline is. The boards measurements are then referenced off this imaginary center, no you cant’ snap lines across the bottom and have it be anything close to a straight line, even with straight edges on blank bottoms, I draw with it to the left, then to the right, going over a curved surface, the straight edges want to deflect outwards at center, draw lines, see how they match up, find the middle between them. Glue or high stringerr, the chalk line doesn’t care, it makes first contact and that is it’s mark.
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'',,,,, I'd really like to see a build thread by you.''
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No.
As to the chalk lines, let's just say that I've found ways to overcome the difficulties you've described. I share alot, but not everything.
Been doing it for over fifty years.
As a builder and woodworker I understand and agree with Everysurfer's objections. It is something you simply don't do in laying out a floorplan or establishing a reference. Instead of using a straight edge, (my choice) you can string a line from tip to tip and pull it tight or taught. While the line is strung, square up or plumb down from line to blank and mark it's position at center of length. With that you have center width and length, make a mark. Then do it in two snaps from center to tail and then nose. This will give a more accurate straight line and you won't have to bridge the taller rocker in the concave. We do this with real looong snaps in building as well.
Not an argument, just an explanation.
…talking about stringers:
the other problems I can add are the buyer impression viewing the board from sides in angles, or the look in the sshops racks, or what the glass crew say about your shapes (if you do not glass yourself), put fins (I bet that most of you hear it many times).
so, you have a crooked stringer and a straight line but if you follow the straight line, you ll end up with those problems.
See when some customer grab a ruler and measure at 12" for ex. and the guy check that its different in one side to the other…
I have not so good stringers in daily basis and is more complicated if the blank have multi stringers or parabolic ones
I choosed and intermediate method between the straight line and the fault stringers
Getting back to the OP’s question… I line my templates up to the outside of the stringer on either end.
Regarding crooked stringers… there are a lot of them out there. Since I’m a garage guy, I just eyeball it first off, and if it looks straight, I just go with it. If it looks bent, I’ll roll out a sheet of heavy rosin paper and use the factory edge to make an accurate center mark at the wide point. That’s all you need, really… just a center mark. A full on line does not seem necessary to me. Make your wide point measurements from that center mark, and go from there. I’ve done this many times and it works just fine.
I make my fin placement marks from the rail, so if you’re outline is accurate (sort of triangulated from endpoints and wide point) your fin layout will be as well. You want your fins to be true to your shape, not your stringer.
But what about single fins… just center it on the stringer or it will look like you don’t know what your doing!
ooohh, ooohhh ....let me in on this topic too.
If you are using a full template it doesn't matter if the stringer is as crooked as ol Resinhead's wanker.
If you attach the template to the same exact spot on the nose and tail, it really doesn't matter what is going with that little peice of wood in the center....it can be all bent to $hit for all I care.
One of the most important thing about full templates is that you pin the template so you don't get any flex in the center when using a router or pushing with a pencil. I've seen some Mr. Peanut shapes for those unsuspecting.
…hello Resinhead,
read again my comment
If your stringer is straight enough(not building pianos) you can alter your planshape by lining up either side or middle of stringer. Those pencil lines and dots can also make a difference. Just land a clean outline.
if you’re a relative beginner, I advise lining up the template with the rail-side edge of the stringer (or just a tad that direction from your chalk line if you’re using that method). That way you’ll draw your template just a tad wide, which give you just a bit more room to fix those errors you’re likely to make, like not sawing vertical, having flat spots in the planshape, “leveling the table” too much while trying to get symmetry, etc etc etc.
PS Sharpen your pencil, that helps.
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...hello Resinhead,
read again my comment
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What?....you are talking about a stringer. I'm talking about that wooden thingy in the middle of a surfamabord.
Whach u talk'n bout Willis?