My question is how much is to much…I need to do a 2inch wide falsa stinger top and bottom on hot coat under gloss…will there be any peeling of the gloss even if the aqrylic is scuffed up…The reason why im using aqrylics is that they is a wider variety in my stash of browns and tans than in my resin tints and pigments and i just get mud when trying to mix those…THankyou for your time
that area is going to get stepped on a lot. i wouldn’t put down that much acrylic at the center. make it work with resin pigments. start with white and yellow, and then add red and blue in small doses until you get a nice light shade of balsa-brown. it’ll take some trial and error to get it right…but you’ll get there.
poly or epoxy? I do most of my graphics work on top of the ‘hotcoat’, but I only use eps/epoxy to build boards, I’ve never used polyester resin. I have never had a problem with a gloss coat peeling, cracking, or anything yet. I use cheap craft acrylics.
JSS
the deck is double six with a four ounce patch heavily glassed all around poly resin poly foam
Since you are using poly, I really don’t know what to tell you, as I have no experience with it. Hopefully kokua will run across this thread, or PeteC or Herb or KKSurf. They all could help you.
The thread below could also help, I had some trouble pulling tape a while back when I started thinning acrylics with 100% Future…
The folks who helped me out, some of them I know have used poly…
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=318333
JSS
Kokua is the man…
I’m a big fan of painting on the hot coat, and then spraying the board with some type of clear coat.
Putting resin over the top always seems like such a hassle -it adds so much weight, you have to sand it, and that leads to sand throughs and ruined graphics.
I use only epoxy now, and I spray with 2pac polyurethane, the automotive stuff, it’s pretty hardcore…
I even write the dimensions of the board and sign it in pencil on the hotcoat now.
Try spray can acrylic, i’ve had good results, but I’ve only really used that for some pin lines here and there. Never had one scratch off.
Have a search in the archives, there will be reccomendations for clear acrylic brands in your country, whereever that is.
In New Zealand I like one called “White Knight”, or the Septone one that they sell at Super Cheap Auto, it’s australian made.
Kit
Does anyone has experience with using a PU coating on acrylics?
I’d like to try this coating on an acrylic paint.
http://www.vc-24.de/product_info.php?info=p7292_G8-Super.html
It is a 1 component PU coating. Wich is UV stable. Because they don’t have any UV stable epoxy resin in the shop. And my first board yellowed like hell, the second had dark blue pigment in the hotcoat so you don’t see any yellowing of the gloss. But I want to make a white one now, so the gloss needs to be UV stable.
I called the shop. It was a bit stupid to ask it here 
But I’ll share what they told me.
The solvents of the G8 1K PU coating will dissolve most sprayed acrilics!
So it is better to use a 2K PU coating with the same properties but a bit cheaper.
And it adheres better on acryl and epoxies than a polyester does and wont dissolve the acrylics!
He told me that the coating will give a high-gloss finish.
I’m curious to the result. I’ll post the result when I used it in september!
Howzit nat, The main thing about painting on the hot coat before glossing is you don't want any bumps or high spots that will hinder the flow of the glossing resin. I guess you could scuff the art work before the gloss. I am not sure scuffing is needed since I don't scuff my pinlines done with a posca pen and it's acrylic paint and never had a problem. A few years back an artist friend did a full on ocean pic with waves, sand, palm trees and it had high spots and texture from the built up layers of paint. I didn't scuff it but the high spots and texture did present a problem I thought. Well the gloss came out just fine but I was concerned about burning though the high spots during the rub out process. I talked with the artist and he said he would do the rub out. He used a random sander so as not to take down much of the gloss resin and the board came out beautiful. I still see this board around ( he sold it ) and it is holding up just fine. Hope this helps. Aloha,Kokua
thank you kokua and every one else Ive done acrylic pins but there thin just didnt want a bond flaking issue…peace