- Power planer: the Skil 100 is the workhorse of the industry, but is not commercially available any longer. Clark Foam sells Hitachi planers that it has modified so the shaper can adjust the depth of cut in a similar way to the action on the Skil 100. 2. One or two small block planes, with new or sharpened blades. Also, a small “spoke shave” plane will help in the curvier nose rocker areas. 3. One or two Surforms, with flat blades and medium or fine cut. If possible, get two, – both the full-length model and the shorter version. 4. One or two sanding blocks approximately 11 inches long, 4 inches wide and 1 inch thick. This way a full-size sheet of sandpaper will wrap perfectly around the block. Leave one side of the block fairly firm-edged and, on the other, soften the edges so you will have a more versatile tool. Balsa wood is great if you can find some. 5. One large handsaw. I like the saws that cut on both “push” and “pull” strokes. 6. A T-square with 1/16-inch graduations that is clearly painted and not just indented. 7. One 5-pound diver’s weight. Use the soft beanbag type filled with lead shot. 8. Calipers: these are readily made out of scrap plywood. They must be able to reach into the center of the widest board and accommodate boards up to 4 to 5 inches thick. 9. Tape measure: it should be at least 12 feet long. It helps if it displays the footage every 12 inches. 10. One 8-foot aluminum or hardwood beam used to measure rocker. 11. A foam rubber pad, 1/2- to 1-inch thick and cut to the size of a sheet of sandpaper. 12. Sandpaper: full-size sheets. 1 by 36-grit, 1 by 40-grit, 1 by 60- or 80-grit (changed every couple of boards). 13. Sanding screen: 80- and 100-grit. It’s good to have a few sheets of each in varying stages of wear. Like denim jeans, the softer, worn-in sheets bend comfortably around curves more easily than the newer, stiffer sheets. Maybe you can cadge a few worn-in sheets of screen from your local shaper or surfboard factory. 14. A few soft lead pencils 15.foampad backed screen 16. piece of sponge with 1/8" felt glued to it (the felt keeps the screen from slipping). I use #120 and 220 to finish off and drag the rails with my 120 17. A piece of 40 grit, folded in half, top to bottom, and glued with some > tacky works way better. The fold and the glue make it so that it will > conform to a rail plus it will stay in your hand. It’s cheaper than dragon > skin and way easier to use. 18. I fold the piece of #40 into a three fold and secure with tacky. The grit on each side gives traction for your hand and the added stiffness lets it span over lows and knocks off the top of high spots 19. Take a piece of 40 grit and spread some disc adhesive on the back then fold top to bottom and crease. You will then have a two sided piece of 40 grit that is 5 1/2 by 8 1/2. When the glue dries the paper will be stiff but still flexible and, after a few uses on the rails, will conform to your favorite rail shape 20. curved sanding block about 20" long X 4" wide. The block is curved to the depth of the concave
One of these years I’ll put together a FAQs and this will be at the top of the list! Many thanks for the list – I’m sure it will be referenced often. Mike