anyone got a good tip for this? i’m doing a glass-on single fin on an opaque lammmed bottom. how can i get fin location reference points that i can see, when i can’t see the stringer? (for perfect centering) in the immortal words of JFK; “Ich bin ein swaylockker!”. g’day!
anyone got a good tip for this? i’m doing a glass-on single fin on an > opaque lammmed bottom. how can i get fin location reference points that i > can see, when i can’t see the stringer? (for perfect centering)>>> in the immortal words of JFK; “Ich bin ein swaylockker!”. g’day! This might sound stupid but, it your plan shape has not been violated , measuring with your layout square works.
This might sound stupid but, it your plan shape has not been violated , > measuring with your layout square works. That’s what I did when I found myself in the same position. I used the half width measurements from tail to 4 foot up the board, in foot increments and then drew a stringer in with a pencil. I then routed out a fin box hole. … I managed to get it parallel to the stringer line, but it was slightly off center, somewhere between an 1/8th and a 1/16th? … it was a true act of faith, my lack of skill was humbling. The board surfs fine and the off centered fin is barely, if at all noticeable… still, I know its either off-centered, or my shape is unbalanced. Next time I stick two pins in the bottom indicating where the stringer is, not pushing them in all the way so they can be removed after curing. I’d rather rely on the stringer then my skill, at this point.
anyone got a good tip for this? i’m doing a glass-on single fin on an > opaque lammmed bottom. how can i get fin location reference points that i > can see, when i can’t see the stringer? (for perfect centering)>>> in the immortal words of JFK; “Ich bin ein swaylockker!”. g’day! ramon: two ways #1-turn off the lights and shine a flashlight under the board and mark the stringer-----#2-if you use a die-grinder ,grind a small area under where the fin will go to see the stringer-not more than a 1/8" wide then mark it with a straight edge—both work real good but like you I’m always open to better ideas as long as they work
Could you use a straight pin and “feel” for it by starting somewhere near center and punching a hole, then moving it a spec to one side and punching again, etc until you hit wood? I have two old longboards (a Yater and an Owl) that both have glassed on fins purposely offset alongside the stringer. Back then they routed a slot for the fin and on these boards, apparently didn’t want to violate the stringer integrity. It’s hard to tell when riding - of course they’re both tankers.
All you do is leave the stringer a little high at the spot where you want the fin this way you can see it easily through the opaque. aloha, tom
The light approach is truely simple… and nice. (I wasn’t too sure about the pin idea anyway.) Thanks, Kevin
The light approach is truely simple… and nice. (I wasn’t too sure about > the pin idea anyway.)>>> Thanks,>>> Kevin That light thing sounds nice.Here is another way…mark the blank for the fin box,build up three layers of 1/4" masking tape over the stringer.Glass and hotcoat as normal.When its time to put the box just grind off the bump created by the tape and the stringer will be exposed.
…how about using an electronic stud finder???..
…how about using an electronic stud finder???.. Sounds good to me, measure the end of the tail, then go to the wide point and find center there, you already know where the fin should be from the tail. Lay 2 strips of tape across the board that would be at the front and back of the fin base, run your straight edge from mark to mark, left and right, the curvature of the bottom will cause it to deflect slightly to each side. In between the marks is the true center. Boards in commercial factories will get an accumilation of dust on them, because of the density difference between foam and wood, the dust will collect on the stringer and make an otherwise invisible stringer appear like majic.
thanks to everyone for all the great ideas. the ‘think tank’ comes through again! and Mr. Phillips, allowing dust to accumulate has always been one of my strenghts. all i have to do is wait.>>> Sounds good to me, measure the end of the tail, then go to the wide point > and find center there, you already know where the fin should be from the > tail. Lay 2 strips of tape across the board that would be at the front and > back of the fin base, run your straight edge from mark to mark, left and > right, the curvature of the bottom will cause it to deflect slightly to > each side. In between the marks is the true center. Boards in commercial > factories will get an accumilation of dust on them, because of the density > difference between foam and wood, the dust will collect on the stringer > and make an otherwise invisible stringer appear like majic.