Hi All,
I would like to put a logo on an Oxforf Blue (Dark) pigment double 4 oz S-glass lam. On my last board I tried putting it on top of the lam and under the hot coat with more fiber on top. Disaster!
It moved, got bubbles and then to top it off I burned through one corner of it when sanding- OMFG!
So on this next board I am looking for a different way to do it. How do the Pro’s like Bing do it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
First go read the current thread on lam/logo placement and then search the archives. There is plenty of info in the archives on the topic. Two pieces of 4oz. One just bigger than the logo and a second piece just bigger than the first. On the freshly laminated cloth/color work. Then hotcoat. Don’t be so aggressive with the sander.
Thanks Mc Ding.
I did look at the old threads and I did it just like they said and you did with 2 layers of fiber on top.
But maybe i got something important wrong. Do you mean to put clear resin on top of the logo and fiber and let it dry before doing the hot coat? That i didn´t do.
Thanks
Absolutely. You don’t hotcoat over a lamination that has not set yet. You can repair by just sanding off all of the logo or most of it and putting a new one down. Even if there is remnant of the first one. Assuming you are using Poly, but same process for Epoxy. In the case of Poly; be sure to use laminating resin for the logo and then resin with surface agent for the hotcoat. It may be the case that you had too much resin under the logo, which results in a wavey logo with high spots. Basically the logo will float. Usually when you run your hand across it you can feel the high and low of the logo. When you hotcoat and then sand, the flat pad of the sander will burn thru the high spots.
IMO (backyarder, not pro-glasser response, and surely not what a pro will tell you, hopefully, later in the thread): the main thing is just be more careful and perfect (sort of same mindset as being out at high tide in a dangerous place with a tiny entry/exit spot, where you have to be perfect when leaving water or you’re in danger). But, you could make it easier by doing a “fill coat” or “cheater coat” over a wider area and then sanding that carefully before doing a final hotcoat. The key there, if making your hotcoat thinner to compensate for having done a squeegee coat or very pulled out light hotcoat is to use a resin, and in conditions, that you have confidence in for that lighter hotcoat.
If you work in some kind of fill coat, you can take up some of the inconsistency in the surface around the logo by lightly and carefully sanding prior to doing the final hotcoat.
I get good results doing thin hotcoats with Composite Resource, less consistent results with RR, when going thin. For that reason I’ll often lam and fill with RR, and hotcoat with CR.
A related question: I thought your post was going to be about the logo being cloudy over the color, via the ricepaper being visible.
Does anybody have a good rec (paper brand or specifically where to buy it) other than what’s on hand via surfboard supply stores?
I get the A4 type - a sheaf - that has the crinkly plastic packaging and big calligraphy on the packaging. It can’t be put over color without the unprinted paper showing up as cloudy whiteness over the color.
[edit: was typing while you all were discussing - still have same ricepaper question \m/]
Read back thru your posts and I was confused. If you are using Poly just fall back on what I said in the first post.
Hi,
I am in spain so not sure what they call what I use in the US. You can see the " weave" and it disappears completely
What I am not sure vis-a-vis the logo is if the “cheat coat” goes just over the logo. MEaning the layers would be
1 Lam
2Logo
3 4 oz fiber
4 cheat coat only over an area a little bigger than the logo
5 Hot coat
Is this the idea?
…hello; do not know where is the confusion that you have; Mcding explained in the first comment. Anyway; first, Bing is just a brand to sell boards to the Japanese and some hipsters there in Europe. Machine shapes the boards and crew glass the boards. They closed the surf shop and put the stuff within other shop due is all in the hype perception but in the real World you need to pay taxes and expenses.
-Dark or not so dark pigmented or tinted laminations are done the same. In the past and still now, there are glassers that laminates the logotypes the SAME way that if the lamination was clear. (under the layers and proceed to laminate as a clear board)
But you do not want that look, so is like previously Mcding mentioned.
I will detail what I (and most) do.
-laminate the bottom; you would have couple of hours to flip the board. Before to flip over, laminate the logotype/s with clear resin (if you do not put more colored resin over; if not you will have a shade of clear. Beware) and a patch of 4oz silane cloth (not volan) of course bigger than the logotype. Let it kick.
Yes, with one layer is enough.
-laminate the deck and do the same.
-hot coat deck.
-cheater lamination coat over bottom not included laps Let it kick.
-sand the laps
-hot coat bottom.
Got it thanks!
I put down six lam/logos on one side of a longboard the last couple of days and followed my own advice as described in the “lam/logo placement” thread and they came out great. Nice and flat, no bubbles.