I’ve done some ding repairs on production boards where the logos are actually on top of the glass job only covered with resin. Kind of a pain from a ding repair perspective because its easy to sand into the logo or sand it off. On the plus side the logos look super sharp when done this way. Curious if anyone here does them this way what your process is. Almost wondering if its some sort of water slide process instead of traditional rice paper?
I know a few guys that will glass a board,
put the rice paper logo on with glass over it and then just after it’s set up, peel it off to leave the texture of glass. then hotcoat. They seem to think it’s cleaner/clearer that way.
some guys use waterslide decals too
Pretty much anything out of Thailand, China or Vietnam Is not a “water slide “ decal but rather a a “peel & stick logo of the type that you can buy in any sign shop. You peel the translucent off the back as you squeege on the logo with a very hard plastic squeegee. Every Sail Board and Sup I ever worked on while on Maui(lots) had logos applied this way. When you’re working in a High Production Factory why would you add the extra time and possible screw up to the process by putting a rice paper logo under the cloth. Can’t be done on most of those boards anyway because they are painted or wood veneer with a clear coat sprayed.
There is more to it, than that. I’ll explain in detail, next time we have a chance to meet/talk eyeball to eyeball.
I’m sure you can buy “water slide decals” in some corner of the earth(pretty damned rare these days), but the average board builder wouldn’t want to pay the extra costs for screening and manufacturing of a minimum order of 500 or 1000 “water slide” decals to put on a surfboard that would eventually wash off.
What I’m talking about is definately not a peel and stick adhesive sticker. These are under resin but not under cloth.
What brand of board? and how can you tell? The boards I am referring to are sprayed with a clear coat After the logo is applied. Therefore the logo is under the clear coat. You can apply a clear or resin right over the top of the logos I am referring to. I did run onto a board that had a rice paper applied under resin (no cloth). It was a 60’s board that someone attempted to alter and defraud. And yes, there is more to it if you do a rice paper that is not under cloth. I’d like to see one of the boards you are referring to. To bad you didn’t take a few pics. Would like to know more about the board and what the logo looked like when you burned thru it. That would tell us a lot. I’m not going to say too much, but there are certain fabrics that can be placed over rice paper that will water proof it. When they are hit with a sander you can’t even tell you’ve burned thru them. Clarity is the reason that the rice paper lam is placed between layers when cloth is doubled up. Also the reason (especially in the 60’s ) that glassers developed methods that put the lam on top of the cloth. Cloth and resin is so good these days, clarity so good that everything pops, even under two or three layers of Six ounce. And just to clarify the logos. I am referring to are not cheapo peel and stick logos like you buy at your local Jersey Surf Shop. Not the same. Not even close.
I had same thing, board was a Chili xf tech made in thaï, i sand the varnish, clog sand paper, then when there was no more varnish logo disapear quickly like when you sand of a posca artwork. Those boards are realy shit build, only a 4oz on bottom on construction grade eps dent as you look at it !. Guy break it while duck diving.
Not going to out the board company but suffice it to say its a brand ridden by several pros on tour. Like I said, if you have to do a ding repair near the logos you will sand the logo off before you hit any weave. It doesn’t seem that there is a plastic film there either. On my own boards I do my logos under a layer of 1.5 oz cloth before I hotcoat. The boards I’m talking about don’t even have that covering them.
I’ll add that the reason I’m asking the question is to add sponsor logos to new boards after the fact for someone that are not peel and stick stickers.
In 1980 John Mel shaped a 6’9" RP for me. When I picked it up I immediately noticed that the lam was on top of the glass. You could see a high spot where it is. I mentioned it to him as it seemed odd to me. He said, “Well, the glasser forgot it until after the lamination was done”. We both had a bit of a chuckle over it.
All correct as you stated.