honestly longhair is a pain to surf with. gets in your eyes after duck diving so you can’t really judge the next wave coming towards you. A guy who owns a local surf shop says when he was surfing sunset his long hair nearly killed him. It covered his face and he couldn’t get a good breath through it before the next wave rolled over him.
Back in the long hair '70’s, my buddy swallowed his hair in Puerto! Actually had to grab it with both hands and pull it out of his mouth/throat! Sickest thing I’ve ever seen.
Kokua, that ain’t Joe Dirt, that’s la familia “surfthis.” We just had our portrait taken, so I thought I’d post up! My hair doesn’t usually stand up that well, but I had a hot batch of resin working and it kinda got all in my hair and shit…
God only created a few perfect heads, the rest he covered with hair. If I knew I’d be bolo now, I would have grown my hair down to the crack of my butt when I was grom. Now I have to wear SPF 70 on my nogging everytime I go out.
My hair used to be like afoafs, now its almost like kainoalani’s ! Still, less drag on the duck dives so that extra yard inside to the peak is achievable now, hehehehehe.