Hola! Just a super quick question; skimmed through the archives for someting but couldn’t seem to find anything other than: 4 oz to 4oz.
I’m just wondering how much resin I should mix per layer of fiberglass on a 8’xwidexthick longboard template board… Done quite a few repairs but never glassed an entire board. Just trying to avoid too much waste. If glass is 6 oz (what I’ll be using) does that mean 6 oz of resin per square… yard? foot? metre?
I realize it’s better to have too much than too little, but I’d definitely like to avoid having buckets of hardened resin laying around…
Thanks!
Oh and I’m thinking this board will probably see some fair use as a beginner’s board (some friends who might be borrowing it) so I was going to slap 2 layers of 6 oz on top and bottom both… to help cut back on the kook knee marks and elbow marks and face marks… does that make sense putting an extra layer on the bottom?
You know I’d considered it, but I was going to use a blended mixture of hemp seeds, ground-up patchouli incense and saliva to get a real HippieLam. Also spinach extract for the tint!
Thanks Ken! So do both at once, eh? Crazy I’d never considered that… what effect does that have on the rail strength, if the layers aren’t alternating? Still about as good? …certainly would cut back on time…!
i was in a similar situation having never glassed an entire board…i bought a gallon of laminating resin and some catalyst…i used 1/2 of the gallon for a 9 ft longboard i put 6oz cloth on top and 4oz. on the bottom…the 6oz reallly sucks up the lam…so 2 layers is going to require the lam soaking in the cloth… let it soak in while working the squeege and walking the board…pouring the lam from a bucket starting in the center of the board going tip to tail with the squeege…a lot of guys just use a deck patch as opposed to laying down an entire layer of 6oz cuz 12oz…of glass is going to suck up alot of lam…
Thanks LsrMaui, sweet to hear from other first-timer’s experiences as well! I considered the deck patch… but I figured since it’s a longboard with a fairly front-heavy foil I’d just go all the way since it will definitely (unless -very possible- I have all my design elements completely misunderstood) be a board to move up and down on more than a turnin’ from the tail kind of ride. Thank you for the suggestion though; when I get it glassed I’ll stick some photos on here!
You know I’d considered it, but I was going to use a blended mixture of hemp seeds, ground-up patchouli incense and saliva to get a real HippieLam. Also spinach extract for the tint!
You’ll need a bit more than 8oz for the hotcoat. You have to have enough to “flow” in order for it to do it’s job.
Unfortunately, there’s always some waste. There’s less waste with epoxy, because you have more time to work and you don’t have to worry about too much resin migrating into the foam. But with poly, you end up pouring it in such a way that you can do what you have to do in the time you have to do it. If you kick it too slow, you end up with a whole other set of problems.
I’d stick to one layer of 6oz for the bottom. Double 6 deck is fine. About 18oz for the bottom, if you’ve never glassed a board before. An additional 10oz or so for the deck (about 28oz total…You’re gonna lose some on your first board).
So you’re saying 28oz, more or less, for the deck; that’s for the two layers? Since we’re on quantity I was going to say I assume the hot coat would use a bit less per side cause it doesn’t have to soak the cloth; maybe even as little as 8 oz? or is that too optimistic…
Yeah I’m pretty stoked on epoxy after working with it for the first time this last week, doing a fin plug repair. I am definitely going to try out some EPS blanks this summer when I get the chance to shape something again. It will definitely be a trip to get used to it though as it handles so differently than poly, which is where all my (limited) repair experience lies.
Well. I have just spent hours doing the glass job, my first ever entire board glass job, on this board. And I am pretty sure that it is the absolute worst glass job ever done in the history of shaping…
Ok, maybe not quite that bad. But I do feel that other than somehow glassing myself to the blank, there aren’t any mistakes left that I didn’t make tonight. On the bright side, I think that it may be possible to salvage the whole affair. I will not post pictures of this stage because:
a. I’m totally embarrassed at how horrendous it looks.
b. I haven’t taken any, as I’m hoping to erase this section of the process from my conscious memory. Other than to attempt to not make these errors again.
So one question out of this that I will ask is… how tacky should the laminating resin remain? It seemed like it remained too tacky, and then kind of pulled and shifted the next layer of glass around when I was trying to position it. This created some horrible bumps and pulled sections… I’m not going to talk about it. Should I just have given it a couple extra hours? It got to a point where it seemed like it hadn’t changed it’s consistency in a couple hours, so i decided it might have gone as far as it would go… I’ve never used lam resin before, only waxed, for repairs.
Ok I’m going to go check on it… I have one more thing to do to it and then I go home and sleep for a while. It’s been a haggard night let me tell you!
Peace out Swaylockers, and as always… the more I play with the process of making surfboards the more I respect those who really know what they’re doing! I’ve certainly learned a lot about what not to do tonight though… heheheheh… one day, one day.
Funny it should wet out really easily and you can work it out neatly with a squegee without pulling the cloth too much. Did you go sparingly with the resin or gob it on nice and sloppy? The latter yields better results for us non-pro’s afaikl… It will stay sticky as it is laminating resin and has no surfacing agent so the sticky surface after curing is normal, you normally proceed to cover that with another layer of resin which is formulated to give a hard and sandable surface.
from my experience epoxy is a bit more user friendly but it being a resin-virgin is a once in a life-time thing hehe, we all screwed up something… nothing to be ashamed of…
I was pretty close to a couple of those a few times, Todd… heheheh but not quite.
I had a question re. the next step here… so basically after the two layers on the deck and the single on the bottom, it was nightmarishly poorly done and I had to do basically a hotcoat so that I could clean up the mess. It’s pretty haggard; now it’s back to at least smooth and resembling the shape that I shaped the blank to… but it looks horrendous and there are some weak points in the glass from when I mixed my resin too hot and wasn’t able to do the laps properly. So… it’s intended as a beginner and small dumpy wave board so I’m not worried about the weight; I’m going to go with my original plan and slap a second layer on the bottom, which will allow me to use a pigment to cover up the badness and will put solid structure behind the rails again etc. Providing I don’t utterly sod this one up as well. XP …
So I have smooth sanded glass/resin to put this layer on top of. Should I do anything more to the surface before I put the layer on, to ensure it bonds well? Or is just sanded ok? I just remember someone saying something about extra steps to do between layers if you used waxed resin instead of lam… so I wanted to check. Last thing I want at this point is to make a stupid mistake and end up having to do more work just to fix my errors… again.
Thanks for the help, and I’m stoked to see this board actually functional! …oh and that’s right, Leash plug… do I install the leash plug the same way as an fcs plug more or less? Or should I install it before I put this next layer of glass on, so that it’s extra-toughened? …I am planning on slapping some extra glass over the plug anyway, like a patch…
I’ve certainly learned a lot about what not to do tonight though… heheheheh… one day, one day.