Usual proportions for a 10’4" is around 24.5
How about 22.5"? Or 23"?
More parallel the rails the better noseriding.
Using a 10’7"H blank with a 7/8" tail kick
Desire something that I can carry without too much trouble.
make some type of u shaped carring device/sling
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make some type of u shaped carring device/sling
I’ll be surfing a place that has 6 diff spots in a row over a 1/2 mile. There’s no way to stash a sling anywhere - it’ll get ripped in 5 secs.
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More parallel the rails the better noseriding.
Why do you think more parallel rails noseride better? -Carl
do a search for “parallel rail theory” …some great words of wisdom from rich harbour. anyhow, the basic idea is that the more contact the rail has with the wave, the more it will lock in for better, longer, more stable noserides. the more parallel the rails, the more it locks in.
yep , i agree with rich on that one …
regards
BERT
Hmmm, I searched, and found nothing. Just a reference to “parallel rail theory” Would anyone like to explain? -Carl
…also with more parallel rails you have more intrinsic velocity…
If you need 10’ + length, go with 24" wide, as the extra width is stabilty, paddle, float, wave catching, and a little extra drag so you can stay in the curl longer.
Make a belt sling like a fin tether for swim fins, only bigger. Strap it around your waist when you are surfing. Even something simple like a 45" piece of tie down, slung over shoulder and under the rails of the board, makes carrying easy.
i looked around and all i found was a couple questions about parallel rail theory with no real detail to the answers. the basic principle is like i said before – more rail area in contact with the wave yields a better noserider. i checked rich’s site, but all i found was a reference to the theory in his description of the San-O model. i don’t think there’s much more to it than what i said, but if someone has something to add, feel free to chime in.
Er…
When you are hangin 5, the whole inside rail is in the water, agreed?
A curve over the length is more contact surface than a straight line.
Nuff said…
plastic or metal gutter with a wood u shaped handle screwed to it .the boards rail fits into the gutter piece…shorting the width by the depth of the gutter…
I finished a 9’0" noserider (21 lbs triple stringer) and put parallel rails on purpose, skinny hips, wide nose. It noserides like a dream and turns like a dream.
At this rate… I’m starting to wonder if this whole “parallel rail theory” is bunk. Don’t you guys have any better answers than this? -Carl
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Er…
When you are hangin 5, the whole inside rail is in the water, agreed?
A curve over the length is more contact surface than a straight line.
Nuff said…
no, i don’t agree. if the rail shape has more curve, the wave is essentially pushing the board off it’s face at the apex. when you’re up on the tip, you need to rely on the fin to counteract this force. these opposing forces result in a great reduction in speed and glide. a more parallel rail shape mitigates this outward push from the wave, and subsequently the required holding power of the fin to keep the board on track. the result is better noseriding with better trim and glide. so more surface area isn’t necessarily good if the addition in area results in a negative physical forces…and should these negative forces prevail and succeed in pushing the board out of trim and off the face of the wave, then the rail surface area to facilitate noseriding has be dropped to nothing…and that’s just no good for anyone (unless you like spinning out sideways, in which case curvy is just fine).
it is what it is and it does what it does…if you don’t like it, i’m sorry…and if it’s more information you seek, i don’t know what to tell you…perhaps rich harbour might have something more to offer you…send him an email.
Now if this board is to be paddled from one spot to another, wouldn’t a narrower board in the 21-22 inch range paddle better? All of the paddle boards I’ve seen ( I admit that’s not to many ) were narrow. If you go by the parallel rail theory, whatever it may be, would the width really matter ?
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… checked rich’s site, but all i found was a reference to the theory in his description of the San-O model. i don’t think there’s much more to it than what i said, but if someone has something to add, feel free to chime in.
The Harbour website has a “design” section that might provide you with more into (link below).
carl , at some stage i can answer it real clear … but dont have time at the moment …
but i would suggest making 2 long boards identical in all aspects …
one with a 17.5 nose keeping curve and another with a 19 plus nose , taking away a little curve from the centre to the 12" mark at the nose …
then it will become real clear …
regards
BERT
maybe you can give us the answer if i havent had the time to do it by then …
220
I have purchased a Yater 10’ er and have made several myself in the 10’ - 10’2 inch range. None of them were eider than 23".
I would not go narrower than 22.75" on account of instablitly from rail to rail. Unless you are a very skilled noserider, a boarrd of that length with sucha narrrow planshape might lead to a rather unstable trim line whilst walking the deck. You could bury a the waveside rail in a little too fat and lose momentum or have a foot little to close to the beach edge and also lose momentum.
Of course there are many other factors that will determine the viability of your design. Wide, point, rocher, to name a few.
Drew