I had an idea a while ago and thought someone might shed some light on this. In the summer, when the water visibility is at its best, I find myself watching the fish below me more often than the horizon. So I thought of constructing a plexiglass window in the upper region of a longboard. One piece top, one piece bottom with air in between. I know it would sacrifice performance and torsional rigidity but, for some people the the benifits would out-weigh the negetives. Anyway, if anyone has ever tried this before or have any advice as I am brainstorming ideas.
several large/long threads in the archives, but no-one in those threads had done it (at least I don’t think). Try searching on Lexan that was what seemed to be the best material. There was even talk of building a Jensen style hollow with lexan deck and bottom skins making the whole board transparent (except the interrior frame).
But all that said, yes I’d love it. I still remember my first wave on my 1st home built board. It was at SA04. Popped up made a bottom turn and saw fish swimming in the water around me. Had never surfed in such clear water or with marine life I could see while actually riding the wave.
If anyone has actually tried the window in the board experiment please share.
Take a 6 inch pcs of PVC pipe, cut it to the finished board thickness less 1/2 inch. Put 1/4 inch clear plexiglass on ends glued with 3M 5200. Now take a hole saw and hog a 6 inch hole in your board…all the way through. Smear pipe with 5200 and shove into hole. Fair oozing 5200 into small space around hole saw opening to seal. Clean up clear plexi and presto, window.
It’s kinda like a giant leash plug. once the 5200 sets up it will be the strongest part of the board.
-Jay
Thanks Resinhead! That really sounds like the way to do it. Once I finish the board I’m working on now I try the window. Thanks!
I doing something like the window but instead im making a shark bite in the board. im so stoked. how often do you see someone surfing on a board with a bite in it. I’m using lexan. the hardest part is finding hte right lexan. boat makers or aircraft usually have lexan in different types of lexan that can be heat formed. you dont need it to be heat formable unless its touching part of the rails. heres a picture of what it should look like. sorry about the colors, my scanner isnt working
Dutch, Windansea has an annual boardfishing tournament in which several guys have viewports to check out below the surface. From what I have seen Resinheads description is on the money, albeit my observations the ports were somewhat smaller. You might check out boardfishing.com to chase down more info. Good waves, Gil
Resinhead’s pvc pipe idea is great! I think I’ll make one that isn’t sealed on top but has a removable cover (somehow) where you can take the top cover off and stand a bottle of water in there so you’ll have it for those ankle-high but too beautiful of a day to not go out and stay forever pleaure point sessions next summer, ha!
In my younger dayz, we would put a threaded PVC pipe cap on the same window mentioned above. That way we would have a water tight compartment for relaxation paraphenalia in between sets. You could do the same thing and have a window in the bottom. You really need something that is flush with the top deck. I don’t know how many times after partaking in relaxation ceremonies I’d forget to screw the cap back on, take off on a wave, and trip over that open hole in the deck.
Oh yeah, make sure you drill it off to the side of the stringer, and reinforce the board where your going to put the hole with 2x 6oz, top and bottom.
-Jay
Greg Liddle had one in his old shop in Tarzana way back in 1970 (+/- a couple of years) - It was a simple cutout with an open hole on deck side and a clear plastic window routed and screwed in to the bottom so it was flush. Maybe the sides of the hole were fiberglassed but a PVC pipe, as mentioned, would work great. If both top and bottom were covered with clear lexan/plastic, would condensation be an issue?
Resinhead-
That purpose was not thought of, but yea, I think I’ll modify the design. Thanks.
PVC and resin won’t mix too well. So it’s best to make a window, and then install it in the board without styrene bases stuff. If you make the window a solid unit it won’t get condensation, just like the new dual pane glass windows. You could even go as far as drilling out he board, then glassing the exposed foam, then shove the window in with calking type stuff.