I’m going to shape a pig and am looking for a rocker template. Starting from scratch on this and would like to find a rocker that’ll work good for the Great Lakes. Any ideas on where I can find a template or resource?
I’ve surfed and pulled dims on quite a few pigs, lots of variables…not a ton of info out there regarding those variables. All the boards i’ve made vary on what kind of wave they suit.
A better description of the feeling you’re trying to achieve may help you get steered into the kind of board you’re trying to make…
Freshwater, Great Lakes? Minimal rocker overall. Very slight at the nose and less at the tail. Shape a little belly into the bottom at about where your chest will be for paddling. I’m talking 4” or less at the nose and 1 1/2 or less at the tail. The old Phil Edwards Clark Foam blank would have been pretty good for a Lakes board. My assumption is that you are cutting an EPS blank out of a block and therefore need a rocker template. Jrandy May be able to help you. He is near the Lakes I believe.
Thanks for the shout-out Lowel. I am from Lake MIchigan but currently live near the Twin Cities, a 3 hour drive to Lake Superior.
I do more paddling and sailing the local watering holes than I do surfing these days but I still like to have something going on the stands…even though I am a hack…current project is a stand-up for my daughter.
I have never shaped or ridden a pig. Last big surfboard I did was heavily inspired by one of Albert C. Elliot’s 11’ footers. His callsign here is Ace, I cannot find the link to post right now. Should be in the same timeframe as my build:
https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/design-review-big-boy-longboard
My normal process is to start with a basic idea or inspiration or ‘I want one of those’ moments, then I work through the design for outline and rocker in BoardCAD, output DXF of the rocker and outline, CNC cut templates (although I have lofted them by hand too) and cut out the rockers first using EPS block foam and hot wire. I also rough out rail bands with hot wire before planing. Most of my cloth, resin, and surf-specific parts I get shipped in.
To get rockers, you can look at blank catalogs for a starting point knowing your design will want to ‘fit’ into one or more of them. Andrew (callsign jjlam) has some at Blending Curves too but per McDing’s suggestions you may want to flatten things out a bit. Blending Curves will have some outline templates too.
https://www.blendingcurves.com/rocker-templates
FWP- do you have any other details about the project or yourself?
-your size (height, weight) and skill level?
-specific ‘breaks’ on the Lakes? Some are pitchy, some are mellow…
-materials you plan on using?
-have you worked with foam and glassing before? Are you familiar with lofting curves for templates?
-have you considered a DIY/BYOB kit from Foamez or Greenlight?
-have you read any online guides to makig boards?
If you come back with a few more details, greater minds than mine can offer more advice.
I don’t have a diagram to illustrate but a typical pig longboard often employs a ‘reversed’ rocker. By that I mean a slightly higher and more pronounced kick in the tail as compared to the nose. The forward rocker tends to be a straighter overall curve extending to a point somewhere behind center where the tail curve becomes more accelerated. Numbers at the tips might be something like 3 1/2" in the nose and 3 3/4" in the tail. On a really long version, consider bumping the tail to as much as 4". I’ve even seen really long (11’+) Surftech longboards with as much as 5" tail rocker.
I personally try to formulate my outline hips to roughly line up with the tail rocker ‘apex’ if it is OK to use that term(?) In my case ‘apex’ refers to the point at which the tail curve is most pronounced. A long straight edge along the stringer will show the tightest curvature at this point. A Yater longboard blank with the nose used as the tail of the actual board might be a good place to start although a ‘reverse’ rocker is listed in the USBlanks catalog.
Someone like Bill Thrailkill might even have a ratio or formula to calculate where the outline hips should be placed but the actual numbers I’ve seen seem to vary from design to design. I had a 9’ Weber pig on which the hips were placed about 22" behind center. This one below isn’t mine but it is a reasonable example of a classic pig outline. It also demonstrates the large fin that is sometimes employed that allows some degree of control and to keep them from spinning out.
^that is sound advice
PS - There is a rocker diagram 2 or 3 posts down… https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/traditional-longboard
I do have that information, obtained first hand. Contact me by PM for a breakdown. I have a classic era pig template (1957 Velzy&Jacobs) given to me in 1958 by Wayne Land, a shaper for Velzy&Jacobs.
Thanks for the info. And glad to be on Swaylocks! Here’s some answers to the questions you’ve asked:
Have about 10 2 lb. density blanks about 24x10 feet and 5 inches thick and looking to shaped some longboards. Setting up a bay and have found that the pig shapes work pretty good here. I’ve shaped about two boards and the latest was inspired by the fantail. My wave count has doubled and it’s surprisingly loose.
I’m about 6’2 and 200 pound and a fairly decent surfer. The waves vary from spectacular (chest high peelers) to mushy close outs.
I’ve shaped and glassed before, with the first being a sup, and the latest the aforementioned and pictured pig. For this one I’ll be experimenting with jute as the last one worked out beautifully. Yes, it soaked up the resin, but I’m trying to gradually depart from traditional materials.
With regard to research I’ve gone over quite a few articles, videos and have found a wealth of materials through greenlight. That, and conversations with some shapers has proven very useful. Attached is a picture of the board that got me inspired to do a couple more.
I’ve ridden a few pigs, and currently have an old Wardy pig on the racks getting a mild restoration…seems the one constant between them besides the lower overall rocker and pronounced rear hips, is the generous curve across the bottom rail to rail, especially mid board, from mid rail apex all the way to the stringer…would think a key ingredient in rolling those D fin piggy turns…
Agreed. The one I shaped has a displacement hull throughout, but more pronounced in the middle section. Definitely makes for a zippy board and loose from rail to rail.