i am picking up a clark foam 10’1Y blank tomorrow to shape my first board. i am looking for possible template ideas or any ideas that could get me in the right direction with some dimensions. i surf in new england, mostly beach breaks, looking for a classic shape, with good noseriding.
if anyone has some templates in illustrator or photoshop they are willing to share, send them my way at
thanks ahead of time for anyone that helps out
make a stepdeck or a classic noserider
For a classic noserider that board has a lot of nose rocker. But im sure you could make a good stepdeck out of it.
Austin S.
For a classic noserider that board has a lot of nose rocker.
that was my first thought, too…but that blank is 10’3" long, so if he’s only looking to net a 9’8", he can move it all the way back and that’ll give him a decent noserider rocker.
i own a 9-8 bing" nuuhiwa" its pretty much a all-out noserider vs. a all-around noserider, if your going to pick up that blank with the intentions of making this type of surf board you might want to follow the advise of other shapers, and that is to relax the rocker in the nose, and ad+ rocker to the tail .make the rails 50/50 but not too fat, pinched in the tail, concave should be atleast 40 inches long, dish shaped, not a flow through concave, the dish concave will allow you to stall the board right in the curl,its a good shape for thigh to chest beach break, or point. the nose is around 18 1/5 mid. 23 1/4 , the tail around 16 1/2, but has a good flip in the last 18 inches around 5 inches, the tail rails pinched 50/50 towards the rear, rocker is critical,and a big ol pannel fin glassed in all the way to the rear .
would i be best to look into different size shapes if i’m using the 10’1Y? what do you all suggest? the 9’8 was just a guess as to what i should shape. please, any suggestions are welcome.
There is no rule that says you can’t make the nose of the blank the tail of the board. That way you get the rocker in the tail where it belongs on a nose rider. It’s one of those “dirty little secrets” of shaping that I’ve used for over forty years.
Good call, Bill. I’ve had a couple great noseriders made from a reversed use of that very blank. Plenty of width to template anything you like just as well backwards as forwards.
i considered that, but the tail on the 10’1"Y isn’t very wide…less than 18", i think. to get a wide enough nose, he’d have to shape it with the tail of the template much closer to the nose of the blank , and i think that’d give him waaayyy too much rocker at the back (unless he wanted to go shorter than 9’8"). ARGH…blanks are so frustrating…this is why i always order custom rocker.
As a practical matter it’s almost impossible to put too much kick in the tail of a noserider. If I were making that board, I’d be in the 9’3"/9’6" range. Going shorter, and a little wider for floatation, you also pick up some width in the nose (tail of the blank) area, per your concern.
I was actually planning to use the reversed 10’1Y rocker spec as my EPS rocker template hot wire guides to make a 10’ noserider. So it sounds like that should give me a prety good rocker?
Since I’ll be cutting my own EPS blank and just getting the rocker specs from the 10’1Y, I won’t be confined by the narrow nose (tail of the blank).
Any other thoughts on the reversing the 10’1Y to make a noserider?
As a practical matter it’s almost impossible to put too much kick in the tail of a noserider. If I were making that board, I’d be in the 9’3"/9’6" range. Going shorter, and a little wider for floatation, you also pick up some width in the nose (tail of the blank) area, per your concern.
florida waves are too weak…too much tail kick will drag you down so much it’ll pull you right out the back of the wave…i wouldn’t go more than 4.5" in the tail on any board
making the board shorter than 9’8" on that blank solves all the problems, though. my size of choice would be 9’6"