magic board


I’m about to order a new board and I figured where else to check if I have the right idea than here. Im sure the shaper will hate me for being kind of anal about the design but buying a new board is a bank breaker for me, so i want it to be just right.

I want something “performance” oriented  that’s really goes in steep chest
high to solid head and a whatever beach breaks and shorries. An issue I’ve had with boards is feeling like I have to baby them through fast turns especially off the bottom, feeling like I don’t weigh enough to really set the rail in.  I’m only 5’7 125lbs and the boards ive had in the past have been maybe a touch too long and wide. And I’ve felt like I cant flex off most boards like I want to.

anyways, so what Im thinking is:

5'8" x 17,7/8 x 2

**deep** single concave through the whole board (deep under the fins aswell), and flattening out releasing off the tail, a** parabolic rocker**, medium entry rocker with some nose flip  and  **high** tail rocker/tail kick,

a straighter rail line tapering back from a** HIP **at the fins into a squash tail 

does putting a hip just in front of the fins where the tail kicks up give the board a point to pivot off?

4oz  on the bottom, 6oz top??

** **

About the pivot-point thing in tail section, I’ve heard some shapers do this. But yeah, I would say that point you described would be an area that would work… Try it! What the worse that could happen.


A hip is more of a release point… a break in the planshape… where water tends to release from under the board. Whether it helps you “pivot” or not depend on your foot placement, weight distribution, etc…

Your glass bill sounds like it won’t stand up to much of a beating, so if you’re gonna break the bank on a new board, consider something more durable.


Sounds like you need to talk to Mike Daniels and order a coil.Let them know your height weight skill level style of surfing and the type of waves and fin preference,and to make it easier on the shaper forget anything you think you know about board design,to much of your input will make the board a dog most likely.

Cheesebread- don’t know what direction you’ll go with this? But I’d like to make one suggestion- GO WIDER! Try 19 1/4" at least. I’m not expert, but I have 5 solid yrs surfing exp. Anyhow, at one time I was your size and weight, and any board I tried under 19" was a dead dog on the water. Mainly too loose and un-controllable. Otoh- boards around 19" and up worked! But your length sounds ok if you have exp with boards this size? But you could easily go all the waay up tp 6’10" even! Totally up to you.
Also, try a flat to vee in tail and you’ll get planty of performance! Your concaves are prob not all that important. If anything try a Standard single concave ? Also, try that tail pivot-point idea- cuz I want to hear how it runs!! :smiley: good luck with your new board.

Yeah, I agree- JEsus he would prob be better suited asking a pro shaper to do his board. Those dimensions do sound bizzare? 17 7/8"- nothing personal- it sounds terrible! Sure this is not a typo error? And parabolic rocker wth is it? Do you mean continous rocker with the apex??

haha, damn I thought I had it dialed.

Ive spent the last handfull of months surfing my face off in costa rica on a 5’6 x 18.5 x 2  and a 5’10 x 18 1/2 x 2 1/8th both have a deep single concave, the shorter one has kind a low consistant full board rocker with full rails, and the 5 10 is a curvier 3 staged rocker.

they go sick when its like shoulder high fast down the line and dredging but when its bigger and you’re going way faster the BIG issue I’m having is not being able to turn the board as fast and hard and vertical as I want to esspecially when it gets a bit choppy, they feel stiff and as soon as I stomp far back on the tail of the 5’10 it feels so long and awkward.

I got it in my head that these issues maybe had something to do with the fact that boards are never really designed and intended to be surfed hard by guys as small as myself (short, light weight, small feet)

you think it would dog because its too narrow?  if I go wider wont that just make it even harder for me to bury the rails??


ps. stoked that I’m getting some advice, my knowledge of design is pretty patchwork


by parabolic i mean a full board rocker, (the curve of a wave is shaped like a parabola)

im just trying to scale down everyone elses performance shortboard because I weigh nothing, a regular board wont work for me being so small

if you look at grom boards they’re short narrow and thin, just a scaled down standard shortboard.

Cheesebread- the rocker you refer as ‘parabolic’, I think you mean you want a basic rocker-with the apex in the center, and the rocker flows from this center, correct? There’s lesser curves in the middle, and a gradual smooth curves flowing out from there. That is just a basic rocker I think. But it sounds to me like you want about 4.5" nose rocker and maybe 2"- 21/2" tail rocker and Def vee if you want it to turn tightly.

The pic of board is one I’m working on sir… It has 4.5" nose rocker and 2"+ tail rocker-pos 2 1/4" I need to double check?
I put a gentle moderate vee in tail, flat bottom, hard -almost boxy rail- which I’m not crazy about- just rushed it. Need to glass on the fins when I return from trip. Boards 19.5" wide. Bear with me though! I’m new at glassing, I just am doing a single 6 ounce top and bottom and calling it done! Then glass fin, cut out a rear slot for a box, and hotcoating it. May not even gloss coat it?
But this is a normal rocker- with the apex in middle. Note: my nose and tail rocker- it flows out of this flatter curves of apex…

About grom board size…
Sorry I didn’t realize you’re that small. But you could still go wider and maybe just thin it out. The looseness you’ll get from the exagerated tail rocker and a harder vee… Heard a single to double concave will also act like a vee? But I’m new to concaves so no help there.