anyone got an idea how to properly shape and then glass these two bottom designs in EPS?
Thanks…
40 grit sand paper wrapped around a round foam sanding blockthat is the diameter of the fillet radius’. Check out the stingray. Not as complex but all done with the 40 grit.
seems like (for something like this, at least) shaping the bottom flat, then making planer cuts, and sanding a hard transition in there for good flow between the levels might be faster, easier, and a little less intense than trying to get ridges like that with 40-grit on a block.
Like AF said, make the tools yourself, such as blocks and dowels with paper wrapped or glued on them.
Here’s a good tip for glassing gnarly contours:
After you have sealed the eps (if necessary) brush some epoxy onto the areas that you think will be difficult to do. These tend to be the low spots and crevices. Use common sense.
The only hard part of this is the timing. When the epoxy is almost hardened but still tacky, lay your cloth and cut it. Press the areas where you brushed epoxy before and they will stay stuck. Lam as normal…
…an easy way is to use spray adhesive instead but this can act as a contaminant and present problems later on.
Hey oneula -
sorry no tips but can i ask you how those bottoms affect the ride?
The “step bottom” looks especially radical
Both designs would seem to me to be made to increase turbulence in a big way - what kind of waves were you thinking of?
I have been thinking over the same thing. I remember Bert saying you could make ANY bottom contour with his method, but the only thing that I have been able to come up with is slicing the bottom sheet and laying/affixing some slivers of whatever material you are using in the gaps. Then pick it all up, lay the glass underneath and proceed as normal. Then again, thats just along the lines that I have been thinking.
Joe~
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seems like (for something like this, at least) shaping the bottom flat, then making planer cuts, and sanding a hard transition in there for good flow between the levels might be faster, easier, and a little less intense than trying to get ridges like that with 40-grit on a block.
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Actually you’d be surprised at how clean the 40 grit shapes EPS. A power planer makes clean cuts but yer gonna have to go in and sand at some point. DON’T use a shurform or rasps. It tears out the foam. I’ve been starting with 36/40 grit and cleaning up with 80. Comes out pretty nice. You just need to realize that EPS is a whole different animal than P/U, but the end result, to have a desired shape, is still the same.
Yea
discovered that today with my first EPS experience.
Only if we could find 36grit for our belt sander… Cuts like butter
Router heads cut even better man we took out 1" out of the top down the stringer in seconds
Sureform tears as did the grinder with 50 grit.
Need to research what the woodcrafters are doing…
Maybe a dremel tool attachment like a router to fine tune the steps and concaves. There’s alot of concave with vee and steps profiles to cut in these two designs.
Oh year that step bottom is from Curren’s Peterson Fish, the only time I ever saw someone do that bottom. Was it patented or something? Cause I never see it on any other boards. Probably too much of a b*tch to glass. The first picture is actually used quite a bit here. That shot was from Jon Mar’s website, but Carl Schaper is doing a little 2+1 stubbie with it… Saw a bunch at Hawaiian Southshore but with the biggets being 6’2" they were a little too small for me.
yeah…i recognized that first pic from jon mar’s site…he’s got a lot of great boards on there…i especially like the 9’0" that joey valentine rode…sick board…gonna have to try to make something like it one of these days.
i’ve never worked with EPS before, but planned on giving it a go in the near future…thanks for the heads up about the tearing…i guess i’ll just take it a little slower with the 40-grit on a block.
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