So I have a half template for a 6’8 70’s style shortboard. 6’8, 14" nose, 19 3/4 WP, 13" tail. At least those are the dimesnsions I remember off hand. I am wondering, can I use this same template if I want to make a wider board like perhaps a board 21" wide but still 6’8? I figuring I would have to manipulate the template to make the curves in the nose and stuff but idk. What if I wanted to make a board shorter than 6’8 with the same template? any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Video is no-frills but he mentions marking out the widths for the nose, mid, and tail and shows the connect-the-dots thing with a half template.
Since you have a half template you like you’re most the way there already. Try it out on some paper first if you are unsure. I did this with my last one and saved cutting a mistake into the blank.
The process is like using a french curve in drafting. Points are measured then marked, and the template is the means to draw a smooth curve through the points. The template is moved or rotated to get the desired curve between waypoints.
Don’t chase ‘‘numbers’’, instead chase a perfect flowing, fair curve. One of my axioms, related to surfboard design is: ‘‘Don’t let the numbers dictate the curve, let the curve dictate the numbers.’’
It is easy to proportionally re-size your template and maintain clean curves based on the original shape.
In your case, you want to increase width from 19.75" to 21". Divide 21" by 19.75". This gives you 1.063. Measure widths of your current template at 12" intervals. Now just multiply each of the these widths by 1.063 and you have your new widths at the same 12" intervals. Plot and connect the dots with a smooth, continuous curve. You could use the old template or a flexible strip/batten to draw the curved outline.
To make the template shorter, divide your new length by the old length (80"). For 6’2", divide 74 by 80 (= 0.925). Now place the previous template widths at 11.1" intervals (0.925 x 12") instead of 12" intervals.
Unless it is a dyed in the wool design that dictates a set of numbers, I usually put 3 widths down for nose and tail, use a colored pencil for the initial draft, then use a carbon pencil for the final draft. Like Bill says, you can’t let the number rule you. One of the first things I look for is, does the template follow the outline of the blank fairly well ? if not, fudging is on order to put it all together.
One of the previous “shapers” on the hill would draw from tip to one foot mark, there to middle, middle to tail one foot mark and then the tail curve, they looked like F-ing stop signs !
To improve nose and tail shape resolution, you could measure template widths at 1-inch intervals (figure below) for the first several inches, starting at the template tips/ends.
Similarly, rather than using 12-inch intervals to measure the original template widths, you could use 2-inch to 3-inch intervals if you want. Use the length interval that suits you. The closer together the width measurements are, the better the shape resolution will be overall.
Kinstle, J.F. 1977. Steve Lis Fish. Surfboard Design and Construction, p 61, Published by Natural High Express Publishing, Long Beach, CA.
If you want to get an idea of what your plan looks like at full size, you can draw it out in chalk on asphalt or concrete. Then you can stand on it, walk around it to check it out from variousl perspectives, etc. Much easier to do than messing with paper.
Simply mark your new width and scoot your template over to that new wide point. Draw the new wider curve in two halves. For the nose, you’ll have to scoot the template down a smidge (towards the tail) to ensure the end of the nose curve still hits your 6’8" mark. Then scoot template up (towards nose) and repeat for tail half of curve. You’ll have to freehand the last bit of nose/tail curve since you scooted the template away from the stringer to your new width. No messing with numbers necessary but this will also, of course, increase your nose/tail measurements.
Thanks guys. Cant wait to get movin on my next board. I’m thinkin if I make the board 21" wide it will work a lil better in a bunch of different kinds of waves. what do yall think? Here is a pic of the board that I already shaped and started to glass with the half template. Just gotta sand the resin band and then gloss. Board was shaped out of an old 60’s longboard so thats why there appears to be some dark patches/old water damage on the foam.
