Anybody know what’s going on? I did the bottom hotcoat and noticed it bled quite a bit (so did the cutlaps) but I figured I just didn’t stick the tape on well. I went to do the top hotcoat and found that the tape wasn’t sticking to the epoxy very well at all no matter how hard I pressed it on. Some places worse than others. I got the cheapest blue 1" 3m masking tape at Lowe’s. Would the green one stick better. Kinda bummed because I wanted to finish it today but all the stores are closed so I can’t go out and buy tape. I’m using the slow epoxy from my local fiberglass Hawaii. Thanks for any help!
You get what you pay for.
Use only quality tape when working with resin. My preference is 3m automotive tapes. 233+
Good advice. 233 has been the industry standard for well over 40 years. There is no substitute for doing things right.
mebe tomorrow.
additive in the mix?
wax in excess?
did ya scratch it up a little?
the historic no tape hot coat
is trimmed with a squeegee
you gotta hang around as the window
of opportunity is quite specific.
tape yes tape but in Asgard , or
Olympus when there was no tape
a well placed swipe of the index
finger’s rail did a fine job.
When the price of a roll of tape
is enough for: a 6 of beer
,three tacos or two bars of tobbelrone…
it aint just tape . sounds like patience is
the key…
…ambrose…
resin research
70 degrees 40 minutes
and sand in an hour
add F and new sharp paper
cuts curls not just dust.
Blue tape has the wrong adhesive for poly or epoxy, only 3M green will stay put.
Did you get all the dust off the board? I’ve hot coated many boards with shitty tape. I use 233+ for cut laps. Mike
I use blue tape, green tape, cheap white, expensive white, orange… I somehow figure it all out.
White and green definitely have the most stick to them.
Ps. Not sure what you mean by cutlaps when referring to a “hotcoat”
…233 and the variations DO NOT have better adhesive, what its have is an adhesive that does not let residue. Also is more “elastic” than the normal tape so you can describe better nicer curves plus that mostly are green so you can see it (in pigments situations)
-what happened was: old tape, yes old tape INCLUDED the 233 lose adhesion; still some dust in the hot coat; cheap crap China tape.
233 and other similar tapes made for auto painting have a higher heat and chemical resistance than the cheap painters tapes. The adhesive on cheap tapes melts.
PS: A ton of wisdom in the post by Ambrose above if you can figure out how to read between the lines.
I actually prefer the 232 tan for most tape work including most cut laps. I do use the 233, but due to the cost difference when buying a dozen, I use it only when I need perfect results on certain lams & foam. Make sure you use a taped razor blade to press down the tape. Also, no dust!!! I blow off the blank with compressed air & use a piece of cheap tape to wipe down the rail area where the cut lap will be before I lay down the tape. There are different tricks that will work, so I try to pass on what works for me. Just my 2c…
3M 2214; Industry standard. 3M 233 good tape, over rated and over priced. Shur Tape makes the “Orange” tape for people like Sherwin/ Williams and Dunn Edwards; sticks good and rarely leaves residue if pressed down properly. 1/2 the price or less of 233. Indasa is Da Kine! I’ve only recently been able to try this tape and am blown away by it’s quality, ease of use and price. 1/2 the price of 233 as well. Indasa is the gem. Available thru Rev-Chem. I knew that considering that their Whiteline and Redline sandpaper is one of if not the best on the market; that their tape would be great as well. Lowel