I just bought some tape from the hardware store. Its 3M green tape and it says that it is the maximum adhesion strength. Does not say anything about 233 or 233+, is this the same stuff or is it not okay to use? I still have yet to find tape that says 233 on it like everyone recommends, but i always see a scale on the package that rates it from low to high adhesion levels. just don't want residue to remain.
If you search you will find the right adhesives for less than five dollars, but you may have to buy more than one roll.
I think the 233 has the second to the highest mark on the adhesion scale.
not likely to find 233 in a local hardware store - buy it online or go to an auto parts store and look in the paint/bodywork section.
Howzit Keith, I was telling my nephew about 233+ tape because he was having trouble with tape sticking in the AZ heat and he said the green stuff that cost $8 a roll and he had tried it. I never got to see the tape but at $ 8 a roll from a hardware store it sounds like 233+ but he didn't say where he got it but in Havasu there are no surf material stores. Aloha,Kokua
…hello,
I bet that is the 3M automotive performance masking tape made in Canada. Is discontinued in some countries.
I use it in 3/4 instead of the 233+
I used the house brand from True Value, it seemed to pull off without pulling up any foam and didn’t have any bleed under. I had to run my finger over it pretty good to get a good grip on the foam.
Howzit wakesurfer, It's when you use resin with tape that it can get weird. For just painting on foam I got tape from FH that cost me less than $1.50 a roll and it was called American tape. Aloha,Kokua
Dammit Kokua, I thought I was contributing some useful info. Hahaha. See you learn something new around here everyday. I’ll get back in my hole and continue learning.
Howzit wakesurfer, You need to realize I have been inthe business for eonsand I ran the boat repairs at the havasu Marina at one time and people in the town were scared of resin which made me laugh. I had customers coming from Kingman and even Las Vegas in those days. Seemed like I had resin in my blood stream.Aloha,Kokua
Harbor Freight sells really cheap tape too that works in most non-resin applications. I’ve never chanced it with resin to see though. Might work fine. But I can say that I’ve been using the wider tan stuff, Scotch brand??? for epoxy hotcoats… no need for the expensive stuff if you use KK and pull it off as soon as you can.
If you “stick” with 3m tapes 231, 232, 233, 234 you will have less problems than other tapes. Make sure you press the edges firmly down, because resin ‘bleed through’ can leave tape adhesive residue. Good tape saves a lot of headaches down the line- think about that…
Now, if when you pull the tape you did not take the above advice and the tape left a bunch of residue adhesive, try using another layer of tape pressed firmly over the residue and pull tape quickly -this can release the goo. Also, isopropyl alcohol can remove the stuff when rubbed on with a rag.
You can use the cheap stuff in a bind this way but, in the end it will waste time. Yea I know you can use the cheap stuff if you want to watch the resin gel, and just before it "kicks’’ you pull the tape and maybe no goo, but that is just as much fun and productive as watching the grass grow.
Good trick, g-rat. I like that. Never thought of using tape to pull up tape…
Most guys here asking these kinds of questions are not doing production, and probably care less about time than money. Or maybe I’m just speaking for myself… Like, I’d rather save the 233 for specific applications, use the cheap stuff whenever possible, and save the couple of bucks for a better brush.
The quality of tape is in the adhesive. Get tape that is solvent resistent. As Rat mentioned get the 2300 line of tapes. But for general hotcoats etc, the 2020 line works well enough. Problems occur when the resin sits too long on the tape and the styrene eats through the adhesive. Or thined out the paint, then layed it on too thick and it seeps under.
Cheep tape is not meant for the applications we use it in. Tape bought at the hardware store is not intended to be covered in resin. It's meant to be used to hang paper or poly tarps, maybe do a paint edge on drywall. Conversely paint at an automotive paint supply or marine store is exactly the stuff were doing...2 part paint, acetone baths, etc.
After all that work, and money spent on blanks, glass, resins, sand paper, fins, boxes, leash cups etc. etc....you mean to tell me your going to risk a step in the process for a fricking roll of tape, saving maybe $5. Come on, do the best job you can at every step of the process. There's already enough landmines along the way in surfboard building....please do yourself a favor, take a few variables out.
buy quality 3M products
I found that same stuff in the automotive section at Walmart. It worked great and stayed put without any bleeding on a dark green lam.
Resinhead is speaking the truth.
Always used 233 and 233+ for poly. Poly’s another story, and I should clarify a few things…
Scotch tapes are 3M tapes.
Epoxy has little effect on even the cheapest (HF’s) tape’s ability to adhere for hotcoating. Never had an issue with residue using the crepe tape and epoxy. Once in a while it will tear, but a fingernail gets it up. When I flip it to do the HC on the other side, I do a rough up and DNA wipe anyway, so any residue left will have been either scrubbed or wiped off.
Haven’t had a significant fisheye or resin separation situation in years.
I’d like to add to your statement, “…do the best job you can at every step of the process…” with, “…at the lowest possible cost.” Five bucks is five bucks!
No comment other than to say thare is tons of info in the archives on every tape out there.
Howzit ghettorat, Remember when 3M 2050 was the industry standard tape and now it's crap to use with resin. Aloha,Kokua
Your right about the epoxy and tape statement.
Epoxy is so sticky. I don't even use tape on my hot coats...I just go around and around every 5 or 10 minutes until it starts to firm up. No worry about knocking down the wax, or letting it rise.
On epoxy I only use tape to cover my fin boxes and leash plugs.