Hello, anyone has accurate measures or cad models or .stl files of or handdraws of futures fin boxes?
there is a picture in the archives of a handdraw but its not very clear
thinking about 3d printing some so any help regarding the topic is usefull.
cheers and good waves.
You will have to make a couple of testprints to get it right.Depending on your slicer settings and noozle diameter there’s will be an offset to the Cad measurements. For my printer I start with an offset in cad of 0.2 mm smaller (1/2 diameter of noozle) for example.
Im not an expert , and in the end I was not satisfied with the printed fins , but tried to get it to work for a while, so If you have questions just ask, maybe I can help you getting started.
Hello my friend thank you for the help.
can you check if the following is accurate?
otherwise monday i will be giving fin boxes and leash plugs to a guy that does 3d models for a living and he says he is going to try and model some.
cheers and good waves.
Hi Arlo, sorry , I can’t tell if it will fit from looking at this file.
My approach would be to print only the base , a couple of layers up to the notch were the fin goes in- without the flange- so you can see if your fin fits in and you can get some real world measurement without using support material etc .
Once you dial it in on your printer with your material and slicer settings it should be consistent.
Just looking at the picture id say the base is different from the stock box, so you might have issues with the install kit. Just guessing here.
will test and post results, the base is no worry cause the router bit cuts straight, the curve is on the router jig.
Maybe i am wrong, but i will test it.
One question, maybe is better to print the bix upside down? More base on the flange?
cheers and good waves
My first approach would be to leave it base down,to get a clean , for the most part supportless inside. You want to sand or scratch the outside of the box anyway before glueing, and the support on the outside is easy to remove. That’s just personal preference.
I print fin adapters for futures and FCS II to longboard and both models are printed face down. The printer easily bridges with no supports. I have models for various types of filament as there is enough of a variation to make a slight difference. A coefficient adjustment is probably a more efficient way to dial in so I’ll have to try that. I based my designs off of the YouTube video and then trial and error plus feedback from customers after that.
I recommend Fiberon™ PETG-rCF08 to print the boxes in. Definitely not PLA.
