mechanical properties, epoxy v poly

hi, i have been buying low viscosity epoxy with a long setting and have been quite happy with it so far ,

included in the package is all the mechanical properties,

24 hrs at 20c +8 hrs at 50c

tensile modulus 3300-3400

tensile resistance 78-85

bending module 3300-3400

bending resistance 135-140

elongation at break 4-5

what does it all mean and how does it compare with poly resin mechanically, are there any web sites that compare different resins and explain what the figures mean , is higher figures better or lower ones?, pete

Pete,

I’m sure Greg Loehr is going to step in here with the good oil on mechanical properties, until he does check wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensile_strength

hey pete,

relevant mech properties are usually measured using known accepted national or international test standards maintained and published by testing organizations (ASTM, ANSI, NIST, etc) and not every mfg uses the same std (but they should), so its not always an apples to apples comparison. Many mech tests measure a strain, deflection or other result when a known force is applied. A simple analogy, hold a rubber band a distance X apart and pull with a force of exactly one pound and it elongates by Y. There are many different ways to test things so standards help industry and consumers make fair comparisons.

i’d say bend modulus is one of the most important properties when it comes to surfboard making…it determines how stiff the laminate will be after cure…dry cloth is very bendable…with flexible epoxy it bends easily, with stiff epoxy…you get the idea.

Units of measurement just adds to the confusion and there’s none in here

24 hrs at 20c +8 hrs at 50c

tensile modulus 3300-3400

tensile resistance 78-85

bending module 3300-3400

bending resistance 135-140

elongation at break 4-5

unless you know what test methods were used or if you do not have benchmark or reference numbers (testing with a control sample helps) its really hard to judge what the numbers truly mean.

To make matters worse there’s also “specmanship” practices going on too…you cant always trust what you read from industry…lots of fudging going on to sell you

ps - theres a post way back by bert were he published some test results… i think it was an s-glass subject

Peteuk, take a look at:

http://www.netcomposites.com

and look for “composites”, then: “resin systems”. There’s some info in there.

ASTM International ASTM International - American Society for Testing and Materials - is a scientific and technical organization that develops and publishes voluntary standards on the characteristics of material, products, systems and services

ASTM International, originally known as the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), is one of the largest voluntary standards development organizations in the world - a trusted source for technical standards for materials, products, systems, and services.

The standards includes test procedures for determining or verifying characteristics as chemical composition, measuring performance. The standards cover refined materials as steel and basic products as machinery and fabricated equipment.

The ASTM standards are published in a set of 67 volumes in 16 sections

You generally want to look at tensile/compressive modulus for fiberglass with poly compared to fiberglass with epoxy. The numbers I’ve found suggest epoxy with glass to be up to twice as stiff as poly with glass.

Meecrafty is right about ASTM testing. Even with ASTM most tests are done in labs that have little or nothing to do with the real world. Even within the epoxy world resins can vary a great deal, we have four which are all different and are made for different composite combinations. Bottom line, if your happy with your results then your set. If your not there are different resins that give different results.

thanks for everyones replies, i suppose its easier to do your own testing,if it breaks with 10 4 oz fishing weights suspended on it its twice as strong as one that breaks with 5 , pete

Greg, any update about your resins in europe/uk

Quote:

thanks for everyones replies, i suppose its easier to do your own testing,if it breaks with 10 4 oz fishing weights suspended on it its twice as strong as one that breaks with 5 , pete

Greg, any update about your resins in europe/uk

maybe not,

It makes sense to exercise some caution when using data that is little more than a sales brochure.

Additionally both good and bad data can be generated by someone following ASTM guidlines.

However, if you’re shopping for a particular value, it still seems like a good place to start.

Having said that, the right shopping list is equally important.

Balsa alluded to the same thing with his reference to the netcomposites website.

I would think that properties like adhesive strength, toughness, and elongation at yield are every bit as important as modulus and yield strength.

Especially considering that we are talking about using these resins in a laminate that is 50% reinforcing fiber.

The strength and modulus of these fibers are easily 20X the values of the best resins.

There is no doubt the resin is critical to the performance of the laminate, but it certainly does not carry the bulk of the loads.

I’m really just making this up but i believe the resin is principally needed to bond the fibers together, thus preventing buckling and shear failure within the matrix.

IMO

-bill

I’m really just making this up but i believe the resin is principally needed to bond the fibers together, thus preventing buckling and shear failure within the matrix.

you can pull glass rope without ill effects, but can you push it?

Quote:

I’m really just making this up but i believe the resin is principally needed to bond the fibers together, thus preventing buckling and shear failure within the matrix.

you can pull glass rope without ill effects, but can you push it?

:slight_smile:

Exactly.

… and the answer is yes, if the rope is part of a matrix saturated with resin.

My point is, the mechanisms or properties of the resin that allow you to maximize the benefits of the rope are not overly clear to me. But i’m convinced that they go way beyond simple tensile strength alone.

Particulary because the relatively low modulus of the resin doesn’t allow it to contribute much to the macro loads and stress’ we use to characterise/design the laminates in a sandwich

-bill

My point is, the mechanisms or properties of the resin that allow you to maximize the benefits of the rope are not overly clear to me. But i’m convinced that they go way beyond simple tensile strength alone.

im no guru but here’s my educated understanding… surfboards usually fail in compression/buckling…usually on the deck…resin impregnated glass is very strong in tension (check any online handbook to see the specs or test some pieces for yourself) but because of slender column buckling, not strong under compression…to get buckling resistance you need to thicken the laminate (there’s a simple L/D ratio engineers use to help calculate buckling), hence why my latest shortie has a cored deck and noncored bottom…

plain concrete has tremendeous compressive strength and poor tensile strength…steel rod has tremendeous tensile strength but poor compressive strength (again slender column buckling)…put them together and viola…you get the benefits of both…steel reinforced concrete is probably the most influential structural mechanism ever developed…resin impregnated glass is essentially the same thing

you made a good point about micro v macro affects…the macro determinant is your overall board thickness…it limits flexion and thus limits compressive stresses on the laminate…i’ve been surfing 27 years and dont like to ride any shortie under 2.4" thick…thicker for std poopee…its not a coincidence that i’ve never broken a board

ps - take two small sheets of cardboard, a 1 inch or so thick sheet of eps foam and glue a sandwich together…bend it and see which side fails first…compression or tensile

ps2 - im watching some surfing on tv yesterday and Pat O’connel takes 5 std poopees to Europe for a month trip…within the month he’s down to one board and buckles that one…he’s pissed cuz he had 5 sticks and now he’s got none…i find it astonishing that surfers accept this, even “professionals”…just one of my eps/epoxy’s would have survived his surfing…how’s that for value…

if std poopees were cars, no one would be buying them

The most important aspect to a composite in surfboards is compression. ASTM testing of compression is generally not done because it isn’t a valid test until it’s in the composite. Therefore, overall, the test numbers you do get are pretty much worthless in our application. The only number that seems reasonable to me is elongation. All this number does is give you a general idea of the stiffness of the cured resin.

So much of what board builders do is about the composite itself. We make resins that are VERY easy to use. This makes a more quality finished part and the quality of the composite part is wayyyyyy more important than a few decimal points on a page. Dialing in what is best is something that, even in these days of computers, still takes trial and error. Even today those numbers on the page don’t eliminate that time honored step even at Boeing.

At this point, I have no problem with any of the above comments.

But the original question refers to the differences between epoxy and polyester

when used in composites… And which properties are most important?

From Mecrafty’s examples i get the impression that section thickness is critical despite the distinct observation that epoxy sandwich has it all over PU/poly of the same size.

Greg acknowledges that the net assembly is greater than the sum of its parts.

As a result it makes it hard to select a resin from the list of properties provided by the vendor.

Yet, you still choose.

I realise the ‘proof’ is still in the pudding, But when you dont like the results, how do you decide what to do next?

If the data was accurate, what properties would dominate the selection process?

as far as examples go, let me add this one.

it’s quite possible to layup a compression sample of unidirectional glass/epoxy that reaches 100,000 psi before failure. The compressive stress is very near the tensile limits for a tensile sample of the same material.

ultimately it does fail, but what’s the mechanism?

-bill

Quote:

as far as examples go, let me add this one.

it’s quite possible to layup a compression sample of unidirectional glass/epoxy that reaches 100,000 psi before failure. The compressive stress is very near the tensile limits for a tensile sample of the same material.

ultimately it does fail, but what’s the mechanism?

-bill

For a simple polyU/glass/wood stringer board

The glass sheet buckles over the stringer, and loses adhesion. With this buckling, almost all compression strength is gone. The tension side (bottom) of the board is instantly doubled in load, and it may or may not fail. IF not, there’s always the next wave :wink: The compressive failure starts at the rail and works its way in.

Early tests have shown enhancing adhesion of glass to stringer does the most to increase the board strength - more than using more glass even. Of course it is all a strong function of board thickness. Thick boards rarely fail, thin boards rarely live long.

well said blakestah…

If the data was accurate, what properties would dominate the selection process?

I’ve said this before wrt to other iussues…you could spend years and years trying to figure it out, trial and error, making a few boards each year, testing, riding, etc etc…

…or you can simply buy a proven product, with years and years of r&d behind it, thousands of production boards tested and proven from a really swell guy Greg…at a fair and competitive price point…

Resin Research Epoxy!

Of course Greg is a good person with a great product!

I guess I’m done,

but you must sense my/your frustration

when the answers drift from you suggesting:

bend modulus, but use epoxy

…to laminate thickness, but use epoxy

…to just buy RR

If the rational has become:

“If you cant make it better, you should just buy someone elses”,

I dont think anyone here would be building anything.

Let me ask the question this way.

If the limiting factor in composite construction (of surfboards) is compressive strength of the laminate,

what are the properties of epoxy which maximise the compressive strength of the laminate?

It’s not like this stuff is any text book, so it makes sense that there are lots of opinions on the matter.

-bill

yup hang in there bro…bone up on Berts and Greg posts…it’ll come around…im an M.E. with a head start and it still took a while…longer than i thought…although reading only takes you so far…you gotta get your fingernails dirty

welcome to sways…my favorite post of all time…

How many forum members does it takes to change a light bulb?

1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed

14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently

7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs

1 to move it to the Lighting section

2 to argue then move it to the Electricals section

7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs

5 to flame the spell checkers

3 to correct spelling/grammar flames

6 to argue over whether it’s “lightbulb” or “light bulb” … another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is “lamp”

15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that “light bulb” is perfectly correct

19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb forum

11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum

36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty

7 to post URL’s where one can see examples of different light bulbs

4 to post that the URL’s were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URL’s

3 to post about links they found from the URL’s that are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group

13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add “Me too”

5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy

4 to say “didn’t we go through this already a short time ago?”

13 to say “do a Google search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs”

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again.

=- epac -=

January 20,2009

Hang in there America

And how many surfers with ADD does it take to change a light bulb?

How many?

Wanna ride bikes?

Zfennell said…

"Let me ask the question this way.

If the limiting factor in composite construction (of surfboards) is compressive strength of the laminate, what are the properties of epoxy which maximise the compressive strength of the laminate?"

Bill responed…

Interesting observation zfennell!

I have a couple of thoughts on this whole subject.

Compression strength -

Many seem to feel that the deck skins are failing on a Polyester board due to some inferior mechanical properties of the Polyester Resin. (I don’t think that is true.) Hence their desire to replace the Polyester with Epoxy.

In my view the problem is not really the lack of compression strength in Polyester. That said, in this case and thread then, the mechanical properties comparing poly to epoxy, don’t really matter.

The problem with boards buckling is all about the skin not staying in column under compression. That being so, there are really only two things that take place that allows boards to buckle.

1 - The skin buckles up.

2 - The skin buckles down.

The two factors effecting this are

1 - The foam’s strength.

2 - The foam’s bond to the skin.

If the board’s skin buckles down it is because the foam isn’t strong enough to support the skin and keep it in column. Therefore, the foam crushes in and allows the skin to shift downward and out of column. .

If the skin buckles up, it is because the foam isn’t strong enough and tears apart allowing the skin to move upwards and out of column. I should note here that it isn’t the resin’s adhesion to the foam that is insuffecient. It is the foam that rips to shreds. Some stays attached to the (resin) skin.

Once either of these happen, it depends on how much further the forces continue to bend the board. But that is another issue which we will likely touch on later.

If what I am saying above is accurate, then to a great extent it hardly matters what the resin material is that is used in the single skin, if the backing material it is attached to, is not as strong as or properly matched to the skins ability to stay in column. What is needed, in this case, is a different foam that can better resist these forces. Crispier or more rubbery, the foam needs properities that will allow it to resist or flow with these forces.

I haven’t read or been involved in all the discussions on Swaylock’s regarding this area of surfboard design. But what I have seen is, a huge emphasis on the resin used rather than a thorough discussion of the real problem. Hence Sfennell’s earlier question, “ultimately it does fail, but what’s the mechanism?”

The solution I have seen most commonly discussed here is to turn the single skin that is standard, contemporary PuPe constuction, into a sandwich skin using Epoxy resins and crispier foams. I am not challenging this skin construction. That can be discussed in another thread at another time. But it seems only fair to note that the STRUCTURAL FORM of this kind of skin is vastly different than the commonly used single skin’s form, found on contemporary boards. It is this FORM STABILITY that changes the way the boards resist breaking, not as it often sounds, the Epoxy Resin. If one were to create a similar skin of Polyester, Fiberglass and Divinycell and overlay in on any foam core it would perform quite well.

Having lived through the evolution of these processes, it is my experience and belief that Epoxy leapt into this mix because of 3 primarily reasons.

1 - The Poly would go off faster than you could get the thing layed up, bagged and a vacuum pulled. (Greg’s comments in an earlier thread alluded to this. That not only are Epoxies easier to use then Polyesters, in vacuum bagged composites but his are designed to be both easer and safer).

2 - The desire for stronger and lighter boards (particularily sailboards) led people into using Styrofoam based cores which would desolve if used under Polyester resins. Thus epoxy use was near manditory.

3 - The use of heavier, sandwiched skins, using heavier foams, required and also allowed the use of lighter Styrofoam cores, requiring Epoxy resins.

In my experience, it wasn’t the strength of Epoxy resins that drove their use. It was issues of practicality of use, that required it.

Now I am not saying this wasn’t a good idea. Or that Epoxy’s other advantages aren’t beneficial to the package. Or that we shouldn’t continue to use it. Or that we should replace it with Polyester. So don’t all you members of the Epoxy Clan jump all over me. I AM NOT PUTTING EPOXY DOWN, AND YOU DON’T NEED TO DEFEND IT.

We are all just board builders of varying knowledge and experience. And the more we understand about the materials, techniques, and historical uses of them, the better off we will all be in using them to create all the varied boards that we and the marketplace desires. I should note here that “we” are also the marketplace. Home built surfboards by individuals for themselves or friends, is a huge part of the economic pie that is consuming surfboard materials.