Any idea why the epoxy didn’t harden in the channels?
The coloured channels look good so well fixed!
Thanks, it was just two small areas, had to be from the epoxy not being properly mixed. I’m normally very diligent about mixing thoroughly, somehow a couple tiny areas got some unmixed resin, guess I fell down on the job there. And they had gotten dirty while sanding, because I didn’t notice them, and really stood out against the white blank. I liked the all clear look better, and in hindsight maybe I should have went with white or cream, but its good enough, just a surfboard after all. I’m normally good about sealing the edges of my tape too, but if you do this stuff long enough eventually you make some of the rookie mistakes all over again!
Sometimes a error
turns into an opportunity the perform the “Save”.
Better yet the creativity in said save…
IMHO better looking too!
Thanks it does add a little color. Got it finish sanded to 400 grit, good enough! Added leash loop cord and base wax with an old candle. Next up, beach shots!
Took it out for a few hours this morning, good time to break it in, small uncrowded waves. Rode it as a thruster with the cheap composition FCS fins. Definitely needs a little orientation time, but got a few good waves that showed promise. Maybe I can get comfortable enough with it to ride a 7-2?
A few observations: The rail channels are great, the best thing since sliced bread, I love them! Makes handling the board in the water very easy, i.e. when you pull the board under you to paddle back out after a wipeout. But I didn’t wax the rails (outside the groove), and in the front half I need to put a little wax on the top of the rails, where I push to pop up. The concave deck is definitely more comfortable for paddling, can’t really say as I notice a difference yet in riding. The tail bump that some were concerned about was not an issue today at all, didn’t even notice it. The board turns easy, almost too easy, I over turned a few times, then I tried to compensate, and over-compensated. Kook! The board can be duck dived, unlike most my other boards.
Its really too early to say much, I need to get some more waves and face-time with the board, and get more comfortable with it. I splurged on some FCS honeycomb quad fins this afternoon, hoping they will make the board a little more drive-y on my next session.
More!
Well… since you asked I’ll give you what I have. The pics I can’t post til I get back to my computer on the weekend, but I had the board out again today.
I can definitely paddle this thing just fine, and catching waves is not difficult for me. Which is good news, those were major concerns going from 8 to 9 foot boards to a 7-2. But it will also take a bit of getting used to, just a different type of ride than what I’m used to.
Today was a frustrating session for me, not much to add ride-wise. The waves were epic, just gorgeous overhead surf with light offshores, perfect shape and fast. The kind of waves I dream about all year. And about 80 alpha dog aggro hot shots I’ve never seen before just overrunning the place. 10 guys taking off at the same time on some waves, intentional snaking was rampant, and at least one punch thrown.
Compare that with the 6 mellow guys I shared waves with yesterday, and that’s the wonder of the internet age. So I just didn’t get many waves, and I got none of the nice set waves, or any nice waves really, just some close outs as a result of taking off wayyy back outside behind the peak. But I’m glad I went out and tried anyway, at least I keep telling myself I should be, I mean I got my exercise, made some heavy drops, and did my level best. But still came away with a big empty feeling, seeing those perfect waves and not being able to get even one.
I will update further as I get some more sessions on the board, but so far I am remaining optimistic. However, I have to admit that, in extreme crowds like today, I will probably always prefer a longer board, even 'tho it probably wouldn’t have made much difference. Maybe I should have been out there on a 12 foot glider, ha!
Great stuff all around huck. I like the purps on the love handles. can’t wait for the beach photos…
Hate days like that. Last one of those I had, ended with me speeding to the emergency room with my mate in the passenger seat. Big gash in his head. 7 stiches.
“Love handles” lol!
Bummer about your friend sk8ment. There were a lot of close calls yesterday, I was fortunate to have avoided any collisions during my session.
third session today. Big improvement , I’m getting a little more confident on it. Goes fast in the pocket, so far loving it as a quad. May even get some ride photos as well as beach shots.
Brief update today session 5. Wow, my best session ever! Really warming up to it now, so much fun, fast, and unbelievably good turning. Thruster almost too loose for me, but quads just right. So far it keeps getting better as I get to know the board, I still over-turn on occasion, it really comes around when you tell it to.
beach shots as promised, possibly some ride shots at a later date
Very nice
“Red Rider”
Glad to hear your stoke.
I kept quiet with the first session
for me it has always been, once I go long (for too long)
as in I can’t sleep it off.
It takes a while to adjust.
Sounds like you are getting there…
My stinkin’ 2 cents???
Maybe slow down your shoulder rotation…
Your trusty stick just follows them, kinda "point and shoot,yeah?
LOL…
ok, I’ve been wanting a surf coach for years - I’ll give it a try!
Hey man, I like your board! The color in the channels and the tail tips add the right amount of pop. Thanks for the build and pics.
:) :) :) 
Very glad to hear this.
I’ll second those comments made by others about the purple-tinted strips added to the rails; I think it makes the board look better too; draws attention to the stepped-up deck which previously had blended in a bit through the clear/white rail channels into the clear/white rails if you weren’t looking for it.
So where’s your back foot landing on the board; where you were aiming for with the shaped-in “deck pad”?
It’s probably a bit early to call, yet, but I’ll be interested to hear a few months down the track how you rate this board in the “favourite stick” stakes as compared to the “GS”… and I know how much you like that thing
Well done and keep it up Huck!
Cheers &
A bit of an update after a couple weeks and nearly 10 sessions. We’ve had quite a bit of surf lately, some crowds, but a few uncrowded days too. So I’ve worn the new off my new board, and it has become my current favorite.
The tail wedge wasn’t placed where my rear foot goes, or where I thought it would go, but where it might go if I really stepped back for a turn. So far, I haven’t stepped that far back, so I don’t even notice it. As I get more familiar with the board, I hope to push my turns a bit more.
The board is probably my most successful shape so far, although I’ve had some good ones. I feel like I finally hit the right combination of length, width, thickness, and shape, to give me an easy paddler that rides like a shortboard. At least enough of that shortboard feel to where I’m able to use some of the old moves I haven’t used in a long, long time. And the relaxed rocker hasn’t been a problem, it has handled drops just fine, at least in my regular spot.
So I started off wanting to refine my 8-4 Golden Standard, but ended up with a completely different shape at 7-2. I do still notice my popup can lag a bit at times (thankfully not all the time!), but I suspect that’s just the way it is, until I start growing younger again, anyway, ha! Meanwhile, once I’m up, I’m going on this thing, and having a blast!
Nice to hear!
It is indeed satisfying to advance.
And by that I mean not only the thought, skill and talent in making.
But, well, what I sense is your surfing (as in advancing) is comin’ along as well.
Nice to see you surface.
Thanks Mattwho, I have been blessed with a job (temporary of course, but so far has lasted a couple years!) only 5 minutes away from a great surfspot in L.A. I live in the sticks, but during the week I stay with family in L.A., commute 30 minutes to the beach, and get to surf the dawn patrol most every weekday there is surf, before heading off for the 5 minute trek to the jobsite.
Sometimes when its real bumpy / sloppy I’ll pass, even if its big and bumpy / sloppy, but for the most part I have really tried to discipline myself to go out no matter what - no matter whether its cold, or crowded, or I feel old and tired, if there are waves. Because I know it will be over someday, and I have wanted to use the opportunity while I have it, to up my game, or really flat out just stay in the game. So many times I have suited up in the dark and cold, not really feeling like it at all, but just about every single time I get out with a smile on my face.
Surfing is so fun and addicting, hope I never drift away like I did for those 20 plus dark years of my life, when I was going through “stuff”. Gotta say swaylocks, and making my own boards, has been a huge factor in my enjoyment of it all, as well. I could complain about a lot of stuff, and do, but I really shouldn’t, I have so much to be thankful for!
In fact, all that time away from surfing has been a blessing too, if I look at it in a certain light: Starting over was not easy, I could remember the old days, and the old moves, but I couldn’t actually surf worth a sh!t. Trust me, its not like riding a bike. I was truly a kook all over again. But going through that has given me the drive and enthusiasm of a man making up for lost time, and how many surfers at age 60 can say they are finally getting a little better, haha.
:) :)
Well done.
Great to hear you’ve managed to achieve the performance/characteristics you were aiming for…
… and it sounds like it’s knocked a good few years off your surfing style as a result of that.
Wish I could see the size of the grin on your dial after the waves you’ve been riding over those last 10 sessions.
Congrats Huck
P.S. 'Like your new avatar image too - is that you in the photo?