so i’m planning on shaping an 8’6 mini-log. pretty much normal longboard dims, just shorter…
as far as glassing, i was thinking of using a classic weight blank, something like the 8’10S or something like that, and glassing it in volan, with UV cure resin. would this even work? is volan and UV cure a big no-no, or what? how about if i wanted to add a bit of a resin tint into it? would i just want to leave it out in the sun a bit longer to let it cure fully, or what?
i’m gonna be watching a buddy’s house, who has all the tools and everythin, for a few days, and dont really want to have to wait around for the resin to cure, with normal procedures, and i’d obviously like to be given the extra time to work with the laps, since i’m a first-timer.
i figure the shape i’m gonna make i cant really screw up, regardless of what happens, it ought to still float!
also, as far as making a fin, would UV resin work as well, as long as i do just a few layers at a time?
Volan cloth takes UV cured resin as well as traditional cloth so no worries there. I pretty much only use volan cloth with UV resin that is always tinted.
keep a couple of things in mind. Volan cloth, when glassed clear will give off a greenish hue (coke bottle green). depending on the manufaturerer, i’ve found that some are greener than others and some are barely green at all. it is the effect of the volan finish that causes this. Also the heavier the cloth wieght the darker the hue. i mention this only because it can throw off some color tints a littel bit.
And as far as tinting uv cured resin, remember that for the resin to cure it must be trasparent enough to let light fully pass through to the foam. this means that you might experience problems with extremely dark tints not fully curing to the foam base. VERY BAD. However, I have done some very nice medium valued tints with no problem at all.
My advice is to prepare a section of scrap foam and cut out about 10 samples of the cloth that you will be glassing with and spend a day just doing color tests.
And yes, you can use UV resin to make fins. in fact I prefer it to MEKP because it is Sooooo much faster. but remmeber that the same rules apply.
Last nugget, noonan, remember that UV resin needs light to cure it…finboxes are a no no without mekp, but you probably already knew that.
I like volan and weight, even my 5’8 twin keel is volan, it’s very fast and maneuverable, I can’t really imagine it being much looser
I also find heavier boards hold trimline better, especially through whitewater or crumbly sections or even when the lip is spitting trying to push the board out from under you
I like volan and weight, even my 5’8 twin keel is volan, it’s very fast and maneuverable, I can’t really imagine it being much looser …dubstar
------------------------------------------------------------Are we not talking about an 8’6"? There will be considerable weight gain by using the heavy cloth. I guess we should know if we’re talking 8, 10, 0r 12oz. cloth, and how much. A lot of fish riders don’t use a leg rope so the durability could help, but I want an 8’6" to be light. We’re talking pounds of difference, maybe 4, or 5 pounds.
my point was that even on my short boards I like weight, I like heavier longer boards even more, to me an 8’0 or up that is light feels too “active” under my feet. I like the solid feeling that weight can add, I find that fin choice and shape keep the board loose regardless
I know what you mean though, different feels entirely. I’d much rather have 8 - 10 lbs 8’ 6" than a 15 lbs 8’6". I do think that it will make a significant impact in real surf too. Small surf = no big deal
i want it to be heavy… i just figured i might as well cut off a foot of what i usually longboard, a 9’6, and see what happens. might not paddle quite as well, but its all about the smoothness and momentum. plus its kinda gonna be a board for my cousin, who only weighs 140lbs…