Through looking over past sway posts I’ve seen a lot of members use “Montana Gold” spray cans directly on PU foam with good results… I guess my first question with more to come would be does anyone clear coat (and if so what brand or kind) the foam after the paint job and before glassing? ( I remember reading about certain colors, causing certain problems… The word “crystilization” comes to mind but not too sure on specifics.)
That being said… I might have a problem… I told the artist painting my blank that he has to use “Montana Gold” cans because of the acrylic formulation. ( This is my first experience painting a blank as well as his.) Well… after all the art was done, I asked the artist what the pink/red color he used was because it really POPS on the board and he showed me the can of “Montana BLACK” which says “NC-Formula” instead of “NC-Acrylic”. There was no negative reaction between the paint and foam. At this point Im just concerned on the compatibilty of this paint and the poly resin I will be glassing it with… Anyone on here have any experience or insight on this?
If nothing else I was thinking of letting the paint dry for another day or two and then laying down a few thin coats of clear acrylic rattle can. Then letting that dry over a few hot Florida days in the warehouse and then Glassing with Poly, using the U.V. catalyst powder I bought from Fiberglass Florida. (The idea behind the UV catalyst is that the resin might not have as much time to react to the paint if I get everything wetted out quickly and then let it bake in the sun for a minute.)
I have used poly-crylic floor finish applied with a foam weenie-roller to seal paint before glassing, with good results. This was with epoxy resin, tho. Best always to do a test on a scrap piece of foam.
Thanks Huck! You can see why I don’t want to ruin this paint job! I’ll grab some of that poly-Crylic and try it on some scrap. Do you do just one coat and how long do you wait for it to dry before glassing? Would you recommend glassing this pu blank with epoxy to ensure no negative reaction?
I would consider Epoxy. “Secret Sauce” aka Behr Tile Sealer can be used to seal it as well. Either way; If you use a roller as Huck suggested and are sure you’ve got good coverage, one coat is sufficient.
I wouldn’t presume to make a recommendation one way or another. All I can legitimately do is share my experience, and hope there is some benefit there.
Or. Seal it with poly resin before glassing poly. If you do this… i would pull nose to tail. The yellow wont show in the Orange but it will vice versa.
We use SOME of the Black, but its hit and miss with the exact colors. Just like the gold. Some bleed more than others.
Like Huck says, “Best always to do a test on a scrap piece of foam.”
I’ve seen several instances in which a paint formulation was changed to comply with various regulations. You shouldn’t assume that a brand or type of paint will give consistent results over the formulation changes.
As Acqua stated - sometimes even with a known brand and formula, different colors within those specs might react differently to resin.
It sounds like using Epoxy is safer (less likely to react to the colors/paint) ?
Is it recommended to still seal before glassing with epoxy? If so… Is that acryli-poly sealer the way to go or are there also other products you all have had to results with? Im letting the paints dry on some scrap PU and will be doing some of my own expirementing.
My first thought was sealing the blank was just to prevent reactions to the paint I hadnt thought that the colors would run / bleed. Does using Epoxy reduce the risk of bleeding when pulling the resin out of the lam?
Whoa whoa whoa, what’s this Tile Sealer? I thought it was Behr Concrete sealer. There are multiple posts, some from McDing, stating it’s the Behr concrete sealer. Is this the same thing or something different. I just picked up the Behr Concrete sealer for $40 from HD and haven’t used it yet. Did I get the right thing?
PS. I’ll be using it on Epoxy.
Same same . I think the official name is Behr floor and tile sealer. There are some concrete sealers made by other companies that are the same stuff. Smart and Final sells a floor Sealer that is the same. Generic Acrylic Sealer. Has about the look and consistency of Nonfat Skim Milk. Goes on “milky”, but dries to a clear Satin. There is also a “Wet Look” Gloss. Stick with the Satin.
Montana GOLD and Poly resin…never had a problem. No sealing needed. Rarely if ever bleeds. One caveat, I’ve noticed a few of the colors WILL change shades subtly after glassing. Like a Light sky blue will become slightly less blue. PInks and magentas, will dull a bit… but it;s subtle.
MTN 94, same thing… no problems wiht poly resin, but the color issue is the same. Same goes for the MTN Water absed. Actually the colros for the Water based sprays have even worse shade consistency post lam.
Can;t speak to the consistnecy with eopxy resin however. ONE NOTE, NEVER use the GOLD or 94 on EPS foam. The propellant eats EPS…
Actually what I do now is I use Home depot house paint. You can get the sameple sizes (which is the actual paint) in any stock colors they have, or they can color match anying. Best of all is the cost… 7 OZ is jsut over 3$. Thin downs a bit, which you should do when you spray, and you get about 9OZ of the best quality paint. WAYYYY better than messing around with the spray cans. Be careful though if you get the same idea at Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams, the “sample” paint is not the same binder ingredients and will fade within months.
