I’d like to weigh in on the practical economic questions of switching to a SunCure operation. With space constraints I like the idea of hanging the light rig from pulleys in the glassing room. You get to use the room for glassing, curing, even shaping. The beauty of this system is… You glass a board under incandescent light until you like the glass job. Then you expose the board, without moving it, while you drink some coffee. Then you sand the glass job, apply hot coat… and keep working on the same board. You don’t have to keep playing musical surfboards while the resin cures for hours in a separate curing room, and your customer waits impatiently. You could work on one board, in one room, til it’s complete… then ship it… then start the next board. Any operation could survive on a much smaller building and inventory investment. You can save the hassle and expense of the MEKP- required OSHA license, and the random inspections. Plus, you can add a few years to your life by not breathing that crap. The proposed lighting expense would be offset as you save the current labor and material expense of sanding, grinding, and replacing glass and gloss jobs which kick before you’re ready. Plus, your product should improve. The lighting expense in larger operations would be offset by the cost of cooling the glassing room, or heating the curing room. For SunCure you want roughly even exposure of surfboards to UV light. If you were to use an indirect (skylight) UV source, you would have to devise a way of properly diffracting bend-resistant UV light from a moving sun without degrading its intensity. Practically, this feat would be impossible. The sun’s intensity varies greatly with clouds, and it doesn’t shine at night. If you take the skylight advice, ask for flowers… or at least candy. For smaller operations, I did some local research. I’ve exposed small areas of UV resin with just a shop light. It takes maybe fifteen minutes. You could build a light box with 34-40 watt standard 48" flourescent tubes. They cost as little as a buck each. The ballasts cost about $10 for each two tubes. The light box would require more bulbs, but you could make the box length span 12 ft with only one bulb size to maintain. Add more bulbs for shorter exposure times. You could wire the lights to isolate on chosen areas of a board under repair, or shorter boards. The beauty is that all the parts are cheap and easy to find. Fifteen minutes of electricity probably won’t run as much money as rent and electricity on that extra surfboard storage facility, I mean curing room, you won’t need. Buy some PG&E stock, and go at it.
I’d like to weigh in on the practical economic questions of switching to a > SunCure operation. With space constraints I like the idea of hanging the > light rig from pulleys in the glassing room. You get to use the room for > glassing, curing, even shaping.>>> The beauty of this system is… You glass a board under incandescent light > until you like the glass job. Then you expose the board, without moving > it, while you drink some coffee. Then you sand the glass job, apply hot > coat… and keep working on the same board. You don’t have to keep playing > musical surfboards while the resin cures for hours in a separate curing > room, and your customer waits impatiently. You could work on one board, in > one room, til it’s complete… then ship it… then start the next board. > Any operation could survive on a much smaller building and inventory > investment. Sky lights of the modern era disburse the light in a broad manner. One 24x24 sky light can light up a 12 foot by 12 foot room. The light is free and the sky light will be more cost effective. No lights to replace and no George Bush PG&E fanagling. Noodle, if you want to glass at night, you can invest in solar energy and store it, then use it at night. Even a cloudy day provides solar energy. With sun light you won’t have time to drink your coffee because your resin will be workable in five minutes. So if there are no coffee breaks, there won’t be any work for the dark hours. Noodle, point well taken because there is daylight saving time. There is no doubt that UV resin is a good solution for horrible fumes from cat. Is this too expensive???..Those flash driers they use in silk screening. Set the light on a gear driven pulley(or manual for us energy conservers) and run it just about the board lengthwise! BAM, YOUR ANSWER!!! > You can save the hassle and expense of the MEKP- required OSHA license, > and the random inspections. Plus, you can add a few years to your life by > not breathing that crap.>>> The proposed lighting expense would be offset as you save the current > labor and material expense of sanding, grinding, and replacing glass and > gloss jobs which kick before you’re ready. Plus, your product should > improve. The lighting expense in larger operations would be offset by the > cost of cooling the glassing room, or heating the curing room.>>> For SunCure you want roughly even exposure of surfboards to UV light. If > you were to use an indirect (skylight) UV source, you would have to devise > a way of properly diffracting bend-resistant UV light from a moving sun > without degrading its intensity. Practically, this feat would be > impossible. The sun’s intensity varies greatly with clouds, and it doesn’t > shine at night. If you take the skylight advice, ask for flowers… or at > least candy.>>> For smaller operations, I did some local research. I’ve exposed small > areas of UV resin with just a shop light. It takes maybe fifteen minutes. > You could build a light box with 34-40 watt standard 48" flourescent > tubes. They cost as little as a buck each. The ballasts cost about $10 for > each two tubes. The light box would require more bulbs, but you could make > the box length span 12 ft with only one bulb size to maintain. Add more > bulbs for shorter exposure times. You could wire the lights to isolate on > chosen areas of a board under repair, or shorter boards. The beauty is > that all the parts are cheap and easy to find.>>> Fifteen minutes of electricity probably won’t run as much money as rent > and electricity on that extra surfboard storage facility, I mean curing > room, you won’t need. Buy some PG&E stock, and go at it.
If you’re gonna use Suncure you need lighting under the board as well so the laps go off. When we started using Suncure at our factory we found it wasn’t enough to just have some UV tubes around the boards; You need a few, otherwise it can take 30 minutes for the resin to cure to the point where you can handle the board. Also it’s possible for the Suncure to go off under flourescent lighting; VERY slowly, but it will kick. We have a metal pan around the board to return the resin to a container and it WILL go off eventually, so we’re going to a diffrent type of bulb. I see conventional resin\catalyst being phased out. If your lams have an area that is opaque, you need to mix a small batch of resin\catalyst mix to go under the lam so it will kick. aloha everyone!
I posted some questions to Dale over at Suncure and here is his reply: 1. RE: UV lighting. apert from using the Sun to cure your laminations, the use of UV lighting assures every lamination to cure at the same speed without fluctuations of intensities from the change of seasons. It is important when using UV lighting to keep it at the proper distance. The most economical lighting we have used are tanning bulbs. 100watt high output or (hi-tan) work great when kept no further than 14 to 18 inches from the curing surface. Any more distance will greatly pro-long the curing speed and almost eliminate the cure of any thick build-up areas like the nose or tail. Shop flourescents, if you can keep them at least 8 feet above the curing surface you shouldn’t have any problems within the time it takes to laminate a board. However, if you notice the laminations to thicken a bit causing troubles, then incandescent lighting is suggested. Different types of lighting: We have only developed curing with tanning lights due to the econmoy and ease of purchase. Other correct lighting sources range in the thousands of dollars and are not so easy to obtain world-wide. Results from other lighting sources have not been confirmed by us so, at this point, they would be strictly experimental. Good luck and please keep us posted on your success.
Tom, Yes, I can spell s-t-u-f-f. You gotta know the manufacturer knows what they’re doing. I’m trying to think up some method of mounting lights which would allow a person to move them closer together and change types quickly… for experimentation only. Once, I inadvertently slightly exposed a gloss coat with flourescent shop lights. The wax had already risen, and I was just spot working the finish. The tubes were about 3 ft from the board. Kitchen and bathroom bulbs would probably help while working, but they cost $. K & b tube phosphors apparently convert UV to visible light. I talked to a prefab wood flooring supplier recently. His floors had a good finish. I asked if his company was using UV curing varnish. He said yes. They use a conveyor belt to send the floor pieces under a UV box after each finish coat. It makes sense. Far less inventory is in production at any one time. Everybody is getting into the UV curing act.>>> I posted some questions to Dale over at Suncure and here is his reply:>>> 1. RE: UV lighting. apert from using the Sun to cure your laminations, the > use of UV lighting assures every lamination to cure at the same speed > without fluctuations of intensities from the change of seasons. It is > important when using UV lighting to keep it at the proper distance. The > most economical lighting we have used are tanning bulbs. 100watt high > output or (hi-tan) work great when kept no further than 14 to 18 inches > from the curing surface. Any more distance will greatly pro-long the > curing speed and almost eliminate the cure of any thick build-up areas > like the nose or tail.>>> Shop flourescents, if you can keep them at least 8 feet above the curing > surface you shouldn’t have any problems within the time it takes to > laminate a board. However, if you notice the laminations to thicken a bit > causing troubles, then incandescent lighting is suggested.>>> Different types of lighting: We have only developed curing with tanning > lights due to the econmoy and ease of purchase. Other correct lighting > sources range in the thousands of dollars and are not so easy to obtain > world-wide.>>> Results from other lighting sources have not been confirmed by us so, at > this point, they would be strictly experimental.>>> Good luck and please keep us posted on your success.>>>
Further down the list from yesterday I got some brief details from Jorg, here is what I think I’m going to do. Not trying to invent the wheel here but I can’t handle the space required to roll something over my glass stand starting at one end to the other. His post got me thinking about a 10-12’ cabinet, on wheels framed of tubing or cheap furring 2x2 or something with a side door on hinge(s). Inside is the 3/4 foam foil sheathing. Using 3 rows of 72" lamps set at 30-36" across the top and 2 rows down each side. The lower rows down the side could be on a separate or detachable circuit to allow for delayed cure on cut laps if needed. I can just keep it to one side of the glass bay and slide it over the rack from the side after the lam. From what Dale at suncure said, your ambient flourescents may not be a problem if they are high enough. I’m using recycled drop lighting out of commercial remodels, they have plastic covers which I believe acts as a UV blocker to boot. A test will tell the tale. Ding repairs work good with a handheld blacklight fixture or one of the wands that the windshield repair guys use. (another UV resin in use) This whole could be stored overhead if you needed the space. Might be a good place for trash to accumulate and drop from above though. Tom>>> I posted some questions to Dale over at Suncure and here is his reply:>>> 1. RE: UV lighting. apert from using the Sun to cure your laminations, the > use of UV lighting assures every lamination to cure at the same speed > without fluctuations of intensities from the change of seasons. It is > important when using UV lighting to keep it at the proper distance. The > most economical lighting we have used are tanning bulbs. 100watt high > output or (hi-tan) work great when kept no further than 14 to 18 inches > from the curing surface. Any more distance will greatly pro-long the > curing speed and almost eliminate the cure of any thick build-up areas > like the nose or tail.>>> Shop flourescents, if you can keep them at least 8 feet above the curing > surface you shouldn’t have any problems within the time it takes to > laminate a board. However, if you notice the laminations to thicken a bit > causing troubles, then incandescent lighting is suggested.>>> Different types of lighting: We have only developed curing with tanning > lights due to the econmoy and ease of purchase. Other correct lighting > sources range in the thousands of dollars and are not so easy to obtain > world-wide.>>> Results from other lighting sources have not been confirmed by us so, at > this point, they would be strictly experimental.>>> Good luck and please keep us posted on your success.>>>
Further down the list from yesterday I got some brief details from Jorg, > here is what I think I’m going to do. Not trying to invent the wheel here > but I can’t handle the space required to roll something over my glass > stand starting at one end to the other. His post got me thinking about a > 10-12’ cabinet, on wheels framed of tubing or cheap furring 2x2 or > something with a side door on hinge(s). Inside is the 3/4 foam foil > sheathing. Using 3 rows of 72" lamps set at 30-36" across the > top and 2 rows down each side. The lower rows down the side could be on a > separate or detachable circuit to allow for delayed cure on cut laps if > needed. I can just keep it to one side of the glass bay and slide it over > the rack from the side after the lam. From what Dale at suncure said, your > ambient flourescents may not be a problem if they are high enough. I’m > using recycled drop lighting out of commercial remodels, they have plastic > covers which I believe acts as a UV blocker to boot. A test will tell the > tale. Ding repairs work good with a handheld blacklight fixture or one of > the wands that the windshield repair guys use. (another UV resin in use) > This whole could be stored overhead if you needed the space. Might be a > good place for trash to accumulate and drop from above though.>>> Tom Fiberglass Hawaii in either Santa Barbara or in Santa Cruz sell all of the correct types (UVA A Bulbs) of lights and I realy like the U2K resin they sell. I use six 4’ light on the top that look like this: . The two on the end point in to the nose, the other two point in to the tail and the remaining two are in the middle. The botton of the box uses four lights like this: == Make the box from insulation foam sheets. It is stiff enough that you don’t need to line with battons. They have a reflective surface on them. I cut it with a knife and used aluminum tape to cover the seams after gluing. My box is very light and I mounted it on a self on the wall. I found that if the sides are curved it help speed up the kick time. Make sure you mount it so that you can lift the board about 3" and walk it straight into the box. I set up a timer so that I can be sure of the kick time. Remember when you kick a hot coat that you only kick it for about 30 seconds and then let it sit for a minute. Then kick it for another 5-10 minutes depending on how well the reflective film works. This gives the wax time to surface and sets the outside. UV resin cures from outside in. I will try and post pictures and a drawing, but work is limiting my play time. I have been using this system for over two years. I can make my glass jobs as well as any. Time is on your side here. I heat my resin in a microwave first. This makes it saturate like water. When you do the lap make sure you use a small paint roller to wet out and then come back with and pull out excess resin. If anyone is up here on the Central Coast of California (San Luis Obispo) you are welcome to see what I have set up. Good Luck…Sticky Fingers Jorg
Jorg: Thanks for the details. Just to get a better picture, you have mounted the box on the wall (with dowels or brackets inside to lay the board on?), is it set up for loading from the side with a hinge side door? or? and the sides are curved to conform to the template? hmmm…guess it isn’t a side loaded box then or is it? Sorry, I’m at the point of converting my shop. I’m going to contact Fiberglass Hawaii for the lamp costs. BTW… during our winters I’ve used a recylced waterbed heater strip (Salvation Army $1.50) to heat a 5 gal. pail or for ding jobs a recycled crock pot minus the crock (place a pail of resin down in the crock post base on low)…works great. thanks for the info. Tom.>>> Make the box from insulation foam sheets. It is stiff enough that you > don’t need to line with battons. They have a reflective surface on them. I > cut it with a knife and used aluminum tape to cover the seams after > gluing. My box is very light and I mounted it on a self on the wall. I > found that if the sides are curved it help speed up the kick time. Make > sure you mount it so that you can lift the board about 3" and walk it > straight into the box. I set up a timer so that I can be sure of the kick > time.>>> Remember when you kick a hot coat that you only kick it for about 30 > seconds and then let it sit for a minute. Then kick it for another 5-10 > minutes depending on how well the reflective film works. This gives the > wax time to surface and sets the outside. UV resin cures from outside in. > I will try and post pictures and a drawing, but work is limiting my play > time.>>> I have been using this system for over two years. I can make my glass jobs > as well as any. Time is on your side here. I heat my resin in a microwave > first. This makes it saturate like water. When you do the lap make sure > you use a small paint roller to wet out and then come back with and pull > out excess resin. If anyone is up here on the Central Coast of California > (San Luis Obispo) you are welcome to see what I have set up.>>> Good Luck…Sticky Fingers Jorg
Tom: The box is mounted with brackets. It is set up for loading from the side…not the ends. The door is about 5" deep and I have used bulkheads with a curve and glued cardboard inside. Then I used 3m spay to stick the reflective “bubble wrap” insulation. I got it at Home Depot. I made the hinge with about 10 layers of 6 oz cloth. I have seen people not use a door with a hinge, but use the reflective bubble wrap as a door drape with velcro holding it in place. I like being able to shut the door. The curve I wrote about does not follow the plan shape, but acts like a cyclinder. Inside the box I have little “mini glassing racks” about 7" high. The bottom lights are not affixed, but float. I am able shift them for longer, or shorter boards. If you have a fax I can sketch you what I am talking about. Late…Jorg Jorg:>>> Thanks for the details. Just to get a better picture, you have mounted the > box on the wall (with dowels or brackets inside to lay the board on?), is > it set up for loading from the side with a hinge side door? or? and the > sides are curved to conform to the template? hmmm…guess it isn’t a side > loaded box then or is it? Sorry, I’m at the point of converting my shop. > I’m going to contact Fiberglass Hawaii for the lamp costs. BTW… during > our winters I’ve used a recylced waterbed heater strip (Salvation Army > $1.50) to heat a 5 gal. pail or for ding jobs a recycled crock pot minus > the crock (place a pail of resin down in the crock post base on > low)…works great. thanks for the info.>>> Tom.
Jorg: I think I got it now. Lots of thoughts for my particular set up from your post. I like the idea of have the lower lights “floating”. I see now the curve as being applied to the cross members rather than the sidewalls. Have seen the the foil bubble wrap. The guys that work in my local specialty hardware stores and home building places think I’m nuts too, considering some of the questions I ask them.>>> The box is mounted with brackets. It is set up for loading from the > side…not the ends. The door is about 5" deep and I have used > bulkheads with a curve and glued cardboard inside. Then I used 3m spay to > stick the reflective “bubble wrap” insulation. I got it at Home > Depot. I made the hinge with about 10 layers of 6 oz cloth. I have seen > people not use a door with a hinge, but use the reflective bubble wrap as > a door drape with velcro holding it in place. I like being able to shut > the door. The curve I wrote about does not follow the plan shape, but acts > like a cyclinder. Inside the box I have little “mini glassing > racks” about 7" high. The bottom lights are not affixed, but > float. I am able shift them for longer, or shorter boards. If you have a > fax I can sketch you what I am talking about. Late…Jorg>>> Jorg:
Hi
I’m about to build a curin unit but here the only bulbs I can get are
Solar Diamond Sun Wolff Usa 100w, model DS71-T12.
You can see the specification here:
http://www.saverpluslighting.com/bulbs/ds71-t12-100wpreheatbi-pin.php
I would really appreciate if you could tell me if I can use this model.
Thanks!!