Just watched Morning of the earth last night. Why don’t we ride or make boards like that anymore? They went fast, they trimmed, they pumped for speed and loooked plenty manoverable for my taste. What’s the disadvatage of those boards compared to the contemporary thruster? Also watched crystal voyager by George Greenough. Amazing speed he was getting on that spoon, and ditto for the surfmat. regards, Håvard
Yeah, I know what you mean. Those guys were ripping like I never will. Made me rethink my equipment. I figured out I would never get all the performace outta a single fin, why would I need the extra two? There is one part in MOE where the guy is shaping the board, there is a guy just flying on a single fin. They focused alot on Nat Young, but I didn’t think he was the standout surfer on the video at all. I would love to find some templates of those boards. Does anyone have any measurements or templates willing to share? What type of bottom were being put in on these boards? Wide point forward, but how much? Nose and tail dims. ed
Just watched Morning of the earth last night.>>> Why don’t we ride or make boards like that anymore? They went fast, they > trimmed, they pumped for speed and loooked plenty manoverable for my > taste. What’s the disadvatage of those boards compared to the contemporary > thruster?>>> Also watched crystal voyager by George Greenough. Amazing speed he was > getting on that spoon, and ditto for the surfmat.>>> regards, Håvard Håvard, That
s an excellent question with a simple answer: many surfers from around the world are following that path... if one has access to longer, uncrowded waves, they soon discover that such surfcraft still work very well, feel really good, and that "amazing speed" is still there in abundance. Two modern day portals to such a satisfying approach are transitional displacement hull designs and high end surfmats. Interestingly, the original, prime mover behind that design philosophy, its interpretation and performance is George Greenough, who for well over 40 years has continued to progress, arriving full circle at his logical, personal conclusion: using a surfcraft thats ultralight, compact and portable, extremely fast and sensory, with adaptable flex, volume and bouyancy… for a number of years, George has chosen to ride a wide variety of waves and surface conditions exclusively on… a surfmat. Dale
I got a lot of that same vibe from watching Innermost Limits of Pure Fun, which documented a transition period in surfing. It was almost a time between moments. What amazed me was the size & shape of those Greenough fins on those 7 - 8 ft. boards. It’s really apparent during the “board sacrifice” scene. -Gregg>>> Håvard,>>> Thats an excellent question with a simple answer: many surfers from > around the world are following that path... if one has access to longer, > uncrowded waves, they soon discover that such surfcraft still work very > well, feel really good, and that "amazing speed" is still there > in abundance. Two modern day portals to such a satisfying approach are > transitional displacement hull designs and high end surfmats.>>> Interestingly, the original, prime mover behind that design philosophy, > its interpretation and performance is George Greenough, who for well over > 40 years has continued to progress, arriving full circle at his logical, > personal conclusion: using a surfcraft thats ultralight, compact and > portable, extremely fast and sensory, with adaptable flex, volume and > bouyancy… for a number of years, George has chosen to ride a wide > variety of waves and surface conditions exclusively on… a surfmat.>>> Dale
Those boards are great! I wish they still made some like that. I have been on my skateboard since the surf is flat. I would not ride on a mat. I would not ride one with a cat. for holloween I will buy a smurf hat. Nat is Nat and that is that. http://http://www.noseriding.com/pages/skipFrye.htm
What amazed me was the size & shape of those Greenough fins on those 7 - 8 ft. boards. It’s really apparent during the “board sacrifice” scene. -Gregg …yes, they just didn`t want to miss out on any extra horsepower…
Just watched Morning of the earth last night.>>> Why don’t we ride or make boards like that anymore? They went fast, they > trimmed, they pumped for speed and loooked plenty manoverable for my > taste. What’s the disadvatage of those boards compared to the contemporary > thruster?>>> Also watched crystal voyager by George Greenough. Amazing speed he was > getting on that spoon, and ditto for the surfmat.>>> regards,>>> Håvard compare the rockers of those boards to what is out there now-those guys were ripping on flat,gun type rockered boards, hence the speed.
compare the rockers of those boards to what is out there now-those guys > were ripping on flat,gun type rockered boards, hence the speed. I noticed the (lack of) rocker. Yet they did some pretty quick turns. What makes this possible, the outline, the little tail rocker there was or just pure power from the surfer? regards, Håvard
I noticed the (lack of) rocker. Yet they did some pretty quick turns. What > makes this possible, the outline, the little tail rocker there was or just > pure power from the surfer?>>> regards,>>> Håvard I watched Morning of the Earth oh so many times! (and I still do) but my question is, isn’t it that those surfers on those waves would have been same as fast even on more modern equipment? just look at Fitz! by the way those MacTavish boards from Innermost Limits of Pure Fun remind me a lot of my DT3.
I watched Morning of the Earth oh so many times! (and I still do)>>> but my question is, isn’t it that those surfers on those waves would have > been same as fast even on more modern equipment?>>> just look at Fitz!>>> by the way those MacTavish boards from Innermost Limits of Pure Fun remind > me a lot of my DT3. Forget that crap and “get over it”: today
s best surfers go incredibly lots faster, turn tons harder and tighter, ride barrels so deeper. They do everything better than ever before. NOW is the most advanced time period in shortboard surfings history. Heros of the past and their sillyass boards are all kooks in comparison to this generation of modern day wave rippas. Lead, follow or get out of the water. Off of the beach, suck it up guys.
I watched Morning of the Earth oh so many times! (and I still do)>>> but my question is, isn’t it that those surfers on those waves would have > been same as fast even on more modern equipment? Propably, but they would have to work the board so much more. It’s not like all the waves in the movie was very powerful nor big, but they we still going pretty fast without a lot of work. Look at the pros now, even when they seem to go in a straight line or ride the pipe, they pump. It’s like it’s second nature to them. Although there was some pumping in Morning of the Earth for the most part they were just trimming and hauling ass. I would very much like to try something similar to those boards to see for myself. regards, Håvard
I watched Morning of the Earth oh so many times! (and I still do)>>> but my question is, isn’t it that those surfers on those waves would have > been same as fast even on more modern equipment?>>> just look at Fitz!>>> by the way those MacTavish boards from Innermost Limits of Pure Fun remind > me a lot of my DT3. I ride a shortboard thruster most of the time but I also ride a vintage 1982? 6’10" o’neill single fin pintail with hard down rails from about mid-section back (the old “S” rail). This board will blow past the truster like it’s standing still (despite what “Sceptic” believes)if we’re talking straight line speed. I am consistantly leaving other guys riding thrusters in the dust. If you drop in on me expect to get passed when I make my drawn out bottom turn under you . Unlike the truster I don’t have to pump the pin to get the speed, just the correct trim and go. Very fast shape. As far as turning quick, that’s a different story.
Propably, but they would have to work the board so much more. It’s not > like all the waves in the movie was very powerful nor big, but they we > still going pretty fast without a lot of work.>>> Look at the pros now, even when they seem to go in a straight line or ride > the pipe, they pump. It’s like it’s second nature to them. Although there > was some pumping in Morning of the Earth for the most part they were just > trimming and hauling ass.>>> I would very much like to try something similar to those boards to see for > myself.>>> regards,>>> Håvard tht’a the key difference-hauling ass without having to pump and wiggle;long, carving turns in one fluid motion,and riding waves until they dissipate, not missing perhaps the best part of wave by attempting to get air.pure style, pure power, pure fun.just look at the expressions on their faces compared to those in contemporary footage(most seem to be grimacing,thinking too hard)…
Just watched Morning of the earth last night.>>> Why don’t we ride or make boards like that anymore? They went fast, they > trimmed, they pumped for speed and loooked plenty manoverable for my > taste. What’s the disadvatage of those boards compared to the contemporary > thruster?>>> Also watched crystal voyager by George Greenough. Amazing speed he was > getting on that spoon, and ditto for the surfmat.>>> regards,>>> Håvard Can anyone tell me where I can get a copy of “Morning of the Earth” Jon
In post, Dale wrote: “Interestingly, the original, prime mover behind that design philosophy, its interpretation and performance is George Greenough, who for well over 40 years has continued to progress, arriving full circle at his logical, personal conclusion: using a surfcraft that`s ultralight, compact and portable, extremely fast and sensory, with adaptable flex, volume and bouyancy… for a number of years, George has chosen to ride a wide variety of waves and surface conditions exclusively on… a surfmat.” Greenough may be the greatest influence on post-1968 surfing. I thought that the exhibitions of George’s '58 balsa kneeboard, the '64 and '65 fiberglass Velos, and his surfmat, were highlights of the recent “Surf Culture” exhibition at the Laguna Beach Museum of Art. To our bruddahs on Oahu, go see the exhibition when it comes your way in January 2003. rory
SCGary, would you care to share he dimensions of that board? I’m particulary interested in the amount of tailrocker. Thanks, Håvard
In post, Dale wrote:>>> "Interestingly, the original, prime mover behind that design > philosophy, its interpretation and performance is George Greenough, who > for well over 40 years has continued to progress, arriving full circle at > his logical, personal conclusion: using a surfcraft that
s ultralight, > compact and portable, extremely fast and sensory, with adaptable flex, > volume and bouyancy..... for a number of years, George has chosen to ride > a wide variety of waves and surface conditions exclusively on... a > surfmat.">>> Greenough may be the greatest influence on post-1968 surfing. I thought > that the exhibitions of George's '58 balsa kneeboard, the '64 and '65 > fiberglass Velos, and his surfmat, were highlights of the recent > "Surf Culture" exhibition at the Laguna Beach Museum of Art.>>> To our bruddahs on Oahu, go see the exhibition when it comes your way in > January 2003.>>> rory Good words, Rory, Its nice to see that you`re still lurking about! Dale
tht’a the key difference-hauling ass without having to pump and > wiggle;long, carving turns in one fluid motion,and riding waves until they > dissipate, not missing perhaps the best part of wave by attempting to get > air.pure style, pure power, pure fun.just look at the expressions on their > faces compared to those in contemporary footage(most seem to be > grimacing,thinking too hard)… Must…attempt…air…doesn’t matter anyway, three guys just cut me off…what time do we tee off?..$450 a month lease payment on the SUV…have to go to Indo again, must order 10 more boards…wasn’t I supposed to have class this morning? -What causes the grimace