Well, paul, im not exactly huge and old yet ( im 28 ), but the amount of times lately i’ve thought i could use a longboard has increased greatly. I just like easy paddling fun. And they can be surfed pretty comfortably in my wave range ( knee to 1-2’OH ). Where i surf mostly doesnt get super steep very often. My fave hollow beachy on the other hand would be a nightmare on a mal, but i only go there now and then. THe only problem is i have toyota corolla, so it would have to be no longer than 8’, which is cool with me as im not really a noserider.
yea, getting older does take it’s toll. If I go several days without anti-inflammatorys, I’m convinced what’s left of my joints is trying to stage a jail break…
But then that first wave slides over our head on the paddle out, the strokes get deeper, and for a while we’re that young lad again, albeit a hell of a lot slower and less limber, with a huge grin on our face as we stand on the water…
Go longer, wider, thicker, whatever it takes to keep ya paddling out for the next session, and the one after that, and …if we’re lucky enough, we’ll get to be like Woody Brown in his last surfing days, leash tied around our waist, board pointed straight towards the beach, huge smile intact as we cruise along enjoying the ride all the way to that last Big Drop…
It’s a battle for sure. I’ve probably lost the same five pounds a thousand times. I want to surf a longboard because I want to,not because I have to. Staying on the short board as I age keeps me from drinking too much beer and eating too much Mexican food. Of course, my boards have gotten wider and thicker. I suppose I"ll have to give it all up sooner than later and go for the nine-0. Mike
as long as it’s a real 9’0…you know, not one of those (horrific gasp) plastic pop-outs that are really a secret weapon introduced by a certain agent of Them in an effort to morph righteous, fully erect surfers into cud-chewing bent over grazers who will move peacefully and without protest along with the rest of main herd…