MOWSES & ICE 9 SHAPE TO FINISH WEIGH IN

Industry Talk
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Okay, so by now many of you know Harold Walker connected with Ice Nine. The Walker formulation was put into what many regard as the most sophisticated foam making machinery on the planet. Some test blanks were made available to myself, Surfding, and Atomized’s shaper.

I jumped on the 9’3" longboard blank and followed it all the way thru glassing and finishing it myself over a couple days.

Here’s how it went

Check in weight as an untouched blank…12.990 lbs

I shaped a very high performance stinger longboard for a team rider in Nor Cal. Board is 9.0.5"x16.5 Nx21.0"x 12.5"T with Stinger @34" up &width 19.5" before stings cut in. Thickness flow is 1-5/16" N@12"“x2-9/16"Thickest Pt. and 1-3/8T@12. Board has a 5/16” basswood stringer. Extreme “Hourglass” single to double concave w/planing rails, forward rolled vee to flat tail. High performance rails like a shortboard.

Finish shaped weight is…5.775

Bottom Glass (Dry) One full length layer

4 oz e and 44" 4oz Warp breakpatch. Very

wide stagger laps for strength…6.41

After laminated…8.175

Rail filed & basted…8.475

Deck glass Dry before resin

2 layers 4 oz. with very wide

"glasser’s nightmare stagger laps…9.490

With resin applied…slightly resin rich…11.055

Note: My goal weight was 12 lbs. and now I’m going to compensate to keep weight close. I opt to go with a textured deck and hotcoat top rail line only.

Hot coat rail only…11.150

Baste bottom rail from tail up 34’ to sting

for razor sharp edge… .11.370

Hotcoat bottom- generous on perimeter

skimpy on center…11.935

FCS inserts installs (7 total) Side bites

AND 3 for forward/aft center fin position…12.690

I was out of leashcups so I added a leashloop from fiberglass rope (the Santa Cruz guys would be proud of me)

After sanding the board finished out at …12.460

As far as strength comparisons between CANE (Mdi) and MOWSES (TDI) both are producing very good results from the machinery being used at Ice Nine.

MOWSES (The “W” in Mowses is in tribte to Harold Walker) has been surfed the past several weeks 6 hrs. per day at Salt Creek and other spots by a former pro surfer and is holding up extremely well. Weight desccribed for MOWSE is “straw”.

The board I shaped was extremely esy to plane and sand…made my work at least 300% easier. Glassing had no unexpected unpleasant surprises…I used UV 249A Silmar resin and a combo of 4 oz e and 4 oz warp cloth. I probably could have made the board at least 3/4 lbs. lighter but it is a team board going to North of the Bay area and will be in some heavy groundswell. The team rider is also used to special stringerless 1 lb. EPS stingers I made him that weigh 9.6 lbs., So this will be an interesting comparison.

The board sanded out nicely, stringer was right on straight w/out a lot of grain changes, the foam was very reliable in all aspects. See other threads (Ice NIne rumours) for my shaping experience of the foam.

I’ve been furnished with the Pricelist update to include MOWSEs. Remember that this is a TDI blank and petrochemmical based. We are currently around $104 per barrel of oil and this directly relates to the price of all petro-based blanks. Not so with Cane. Accordingly, you will find MOWSES about $10 to $20 more than Cane. Such is the cas when the price of oil escalates.

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was wondering what oil is used in the manufacturing of ice nine and what it adds to the weight. could you explain.

                                           thanks natas
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Looking forward to hearing your team riders feedback.

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What part of petroleum? Oil? Texas T?

All I know is oil is used in the making of resin, fiberglass, blanks and gazillions of other products that are made of plastic. Price per barrel impacts all of them.

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Deanbo…me too. The styro stringerless boards worked well for him. Unfortunately his favorite one got caught at a bad angle going over the falls and it snapped. This wave would have snapped anything…big surf north of the SF Bay. He put it back together and was loving it until he got caught inside and it snapped again…but luckily still a clean snap. So he put rods into it per my instructions and he says it looks as tho’ it never happened.

The sister ship to this poor board is a non-sting we did for comparison. He says it’s a good board but doesn’t compare to the stinger. He has been riding this formula that I came up wiith ten years ago…he rides very far forward and he needed a board that the rail would clear on cutbacks. He rides these tiny little fins way up on the boards and just flies!

How far up? Well the FCs side biter inserts are 19-1/8" up from tail. The are toed in so they intersect well before the nose and they are canted out at 8 degrees. Everything is about manuevering this board like a shortboard. Which it turns ligtning fast and can pwerslide at will. But he also knows how to drive it down the line like a gun…really specialized equipment. The rails from the sting cut back are razor sharp…that’s 34" of razor edge cutting thru the water. The rear center fin is very small too, so I have the first FCS insert up 10-1/4" and there are two more inserts allowing two positions if he desires.

I called this his “Glass Slipper” we will see what feed back comes in soon.

I’ve never posted photos on here so if someone give me the easy way I’ll endeavor to do so.

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hey bruce

        good stuff

the textured deck id be interested to know

if its the same as i done in the sixtys

pm me if you like

ps the weight of that board looks prety good

huie

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Huie…textured decks save you having to sand the deck entirely. Yater used to do them pretty regularly back in the 70’s.

Once you glass te board and it’s time for hotcoating, hotcoat the botttom as usual, but for the deck just tape off the overlap the way you want it for the hotcoat. Then coat it. I’m using UV resin so I pulled the lap tapeline so it can round out before sticking it in the sun (no sharp edge). Then cure in the sun.

The lap I had was real smooth and I debated even bothering to sand it, but did so with some 150 and 220. Then we mask off the lap and squeegee the deck w/some finishing resin over the weave to seal it with resin so that it would be non sticky and/or seal in any lows in the weave leaving the tits to grab wax afterward.

Since I had already glassed the deck with a resin rich laminate, I didn’t see the need to add more weight doing the last seal coat…it didn’t need it. So I saved the weight by putting it where it is needed…in the glass. Annd I saved myself the time of sanding a deck that is just going to get a pad and wax on it anyway.

Mellor offered to post some pics for me (I’m not sure how to do it so I’m sending some to him and he’ll post).

Update: I didn’t take pix of the textured deck but you know the drill. I have pix of the stick tho’ and will post at some point.

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yea bruce

    i think we went a little bit further than that done simaller resin procedur

but then we seived clean foam dust over said resin

when dry wet& dry to likeing dont need wax

another way to get light hAAAA

huie

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Huie…I used the foam dust that went to the collector bags when Clark was cutting blanks for stringer glueup…people were using salt and sugar and it sucked compared to foam dust…the FD had a velvety grit and didn’t get slick after awhile like sugar and salt impressions. Some guys used dacron pull sheets…foam was best. I used it on an ultralite Back to the Future Model surfboard I made and it was great…never waxed and since the board was an EPS epoxy, it went well to keep it superlite.

Greg Liddell went another direction altogether by disc’ing crescent moon sandng swipes into the hotcoats with different grits…made it really grippy and no need for wax on those either.

Necssity is the mother of invention, if you’re down to your last little bit of wax, wax your feet instead of the board, or better yet ask someone for a lick of wax.

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Howzit DS, After taping off and hotcoating bottom and rails up to where the deck starts to flatten I would tape off up to the hot coat then squeege the deck for texture, seemd to work just fine but did add a bit of weight.Aloha,Kokua

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Aloha K…yep that’s the pretty norm way most do it…squeegee the glass weave with a ‘seal’ coat…used to use finishing resin back when the pink stuff was always used for glossing. Take care…

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Shit. And to think I just hot coat and sand.

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Barky…this isn’t a hot new thing…it’s just an option…most of the time and doing the same drill as you are…

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Update: He has ridden that board in everything up to triple overhead and said it is the best one to date. He had another one he loved that he surfed down south at Trestles but while staying at a friend’s house it was stolen. Hopefully someone that can appreciate that one pinched it rather than some crack head.

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Hey Bruce -

Would like to see pics. If I can help, just send them to me via regular email. goomba271(at)charter(dot)net.

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Will do…DS

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how is that on the nipples? need a rash guard?

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Did you get those stinger pix? I sent and I think they bounced back???