This morning I had a great session at Pipe (Ventura not Hawaii). One of those days where you just seem to be in the right spot nearly every time. Balance was perfect, smooth and relaxed. Sets running at chest to head high. Light offshores and golden sunshine. Beautiful!
Started talking to this guy in the water about waves, boards weather and so on. Ended up trading some nice sets and found out we both shape. Turns out, he’s been shaping for over 30 years, as opposed to my 3 years. Said he shapes for Kennedy and has a place in Australia and here in So. Cal. Has just finished a marathon shaping session and needed a day off. Cool guy, mellow, smooth surfing style and not all stuck up. @ 9:30AM I had to bail and didn’t find out his name. Was telling a friend the story at Ventura Surf Shop and it turns out, I was talking to Glen Kennedy. It’s cool to see someone’s label for so many years, to finally meet them and not even know it. And then find out the guy is really down to earth. Living in So. Cal all of my life, I’ve run into too many stuck up shapers and shop owners. This was a pleasant surprise.
Mr. Kennedy, I hope your day off was as good as mine. Thanks for set wave.
Sr. Pato