Musica Surfica continues to gather momentum

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Once you have a fin on a board you are on the path of “riding the equipment”, which is fine. -Nels

Just in case I was misunderstood on that…and for those that don’t know anything about me through these posts or whatnot, I haven’t ridden a single fin standup board since the 1980’s…which is not to say I don’t really really like them too…and I don’t want anybody to think I don’t believe there is a heap of skill involved in riding really anything. All my standup boards since about 1987 have exclusively been with three fins in various sizes and configurations.

Okay. ?

This one’s for you, Lee…I probably can’t remember what I had for dinner last night but…

“A mature man will never remain a hotdogger.”

-Sam Reid

thanks for posting those pictures greg.

i look at illustrations & photographs like that & i long to slip into them, even just for a day: sharing waves with those beautiful people in a different hawai’i, a waikiki without highrise hotels, a natural amphitheatre of true-hearted surfing, with the unchanging diamond head a silhouetted jewel upon the unpolluted pacific, with warm water & a soft gold sun, an open clear sky & clean untrodden sand, with goodness & generosity amongst the men & women upon the water, a place & time when surfers were truly seaworthy.

mmmmm…such beautiful surfing! what a noble pursuit!

how privileged & blessed we are to slide on waves.

i love surfing with all my heart.

I agree with you, bro.

Now these guys are all going to want to “express themselves” without the impedance that

sharing the wave and interaction with “that kook” might impose.

Meanwhile:

(((photo of Dan I think riding alaia on wave with mat rider)))

It’s not that I don’t like to turn–far from it.

I just think it would be great if surfboards weren’t such pointy fragile things someday and a couple or 3 guys could learn to draw swoopy lines together as a measure of true talent. That would be fun and a whole new transcendent dimension would open up.

When I was learning a few years ago (not that it’s over, BASOTI), a guy I know (with 13 years exp.) and I took off on a knee to waist high wave together, popped up simultaneously, both going right, me on a fish and him on a 70s mid-length or something–I was behind him closer to the crumble, and I guess he bailed to give me the wave… but it was right before he did that I was having the best time…maybe I just hadn’t gotten “good” enough to know that he or I were “in my way” …but I was having the best time just kinda drawing a little S line behind him

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I just think it would be great if surfboards weren't such pointy fragile things someday and a couple or 3 guys could learn to draw swoopy lines together as a measure of true talent. That would be fun and a whole new transcendent dimension would open up.

This is from George Greenough quoted in TSJ article “Inflatable Dreams”

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We used to get six or eight mat riders out at Rincon on windy spring afternoons, and there was no problem riding a wave with that many people on it. The knuckle of white water would catch whoever was in the back and hurtle them forward. They would bounce off everybody else like a pinball, then the next guy in the back would catapult forward. Two hundred people could easily surf Rincon without it being crowded if they were all on mats.

Only real problem I see is the extreme shortage of skilled mat makers! There’s probably room to at least double the number right now and with the recent budding interest in finless craft if they were suddenly easier to get, demand might skyrocket…

Just to remind all these modernist upstarts like Dale, Derek etc that there’s others out there playing with the same stuff! I haven’t seen any photos or footage of this but I’m sure it exisits and I have seen recent footage of some of the young Hawaiian paipo riders that is beyound cool.

HEENALU/HEEHOLUA SURFING SERIES

Historic wooden surfboard and sled event highlighting the Hawaiian culture and history of extreme sports – Feb.17 – March 11, 2007 (holding period)

Media Advisory

(11/25/06)

WHAT: The first surf and holua event using wooden carved surfboards and sleds highlighting the chants and protocols never seen in modern times associated with the Hawaiian culture surrounding these two unique sports. Surfboards weigh in at over 100 pounds and papaholua (sleds) 12 ft. long, have no fins or steering are shaped in a manner consistent with boards and sleds used prior to 1778 and through the late 1800s to the early 1930s.

WHEN: Opening ceremonies / chants to honor the akua (gods) and ancestors to begin at 9:00 a.m. Feb.17, 2007 with events to follow – TBA

WHERE: The surfing event is to take place at one of the following venues at one of the following locations – Kaunalu (Phantoms) North Shore, O`ahu, Lani’akea (Himalaya’s), Avalanche (Hale’iwa), or Kailua, Kona.

Holua sledding event will take place at one of the following – Parker Ranch, Kohala, Kahua Ranch, Kohala, or Ulupalakua Ranch, Maui.

HOW: Regarded Kupuna (elders) and chanters and will perform opening chants/stories and offerings rarely seen in public as we recognize the living relationship the Hawaiian people have with their gods of old. Once the ceremonial offerings have taken place, invited entrants will randomly select a surfboard and sled provided for use; a quiver of solid wood boards and traditional sleds will be provided for participants. In the surfing component, four surfers (per heat) will surf in heats at one of the aforementioned surf breaks in 60 minutes per heat.

The holua sledding segment will have each contestant doing 6 or more downhill runs in three (3) different positions – prone, kneeling, and standing individually as well one on one heats - There are no winners or losers, this event focuses on providing competitors and spectators the experience of surfing and sledding competitions in Hawai’i over 200 years ago. Traditional judging criteria will apply – distance, length or ride, style, size of wave, etc.

WHO: This event is by invitation only whom were chosen based on their knowledge and skills who would like to experience the unique Hawaiian culture surrounding surfing and Hawaiian mountain sledding. Few have experienced the exhilaration of paddling into and attempting to surf on what was once a living tree powered by great ocean waves or sliding down mountain slopes or lava fields at speed that may reach 50 miles per hour or more.

HISTORY: HawaiiBC and Tom Pohaku Stone, a former professional surfer who now is a professor at the University of Hawaii are collaborating with various community groups with the goal to educate, perpetuate and preserve what little is known about the history and culture surrounding these traditional sports. Surfing and lava sledding was born in the islands and was revered as a ritualistic and culturally significant sport, a fact that has been lost in today’s commoditized and commercialized world.

SPECTATORS: The event is free and open to the public to view. Spectators are invited to watch the chants and competition and view surfboards on display. Talk first hand with Pohaku on the cutting and carving the boards, a process also seeped with cultural ties.

AWARDS: Awards will be given for Overall Best Performance in each of the two disciplines and the recognition of an individual’s outstanding performance in both disciplines. Their peers based on traditional guidelines will judge competitors.

HOTLINE: The public may contact HAWAIIBC (Tom Stone or David Pu`u) for more information: 808-561-5663 or 805 794-0123. Or check HawaiiBC website for updates at www.hawaiibc.com

COMMUNITY SUPPORTERS: Kamehameha Schools, University of Hawaii – Center for Hawaiian Studies, Kahuawai, Oils of Aloha, Mike Slattery

DOCUMENTARY: This event will be captured in a documentary coordinated by David Pu’u renowned filmographer for release in the near future.

MEDIA: This event is a community event run with volunteers. As such, every effort to provide footage to television stations will be made. Media wishing to cover the event must contact David Pu’u ahead of time or check in with David on the day of the event and display a media badge. David will be on-site.

EVENT COORDINATOR: Tom Pohaku Stone Email:

http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=303303;#303303

; )

The Rincon scene sounds too fun and funny for a bunch of men to deal with–but if a generation’s worth of 10 year old mat riders took the place over…happy paradigm shift!

Under the right conditions an old fart on a mat can become a ten year old, at least mentally which is what really counts. At least that has been my experience!

Tom Wegener’s new alaia page: http://www.tomwegenersurfboards.com/html/alaia.html

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Just to remind all these modernist upstarts like Dale, Derek etc that there's others out there playing with the same stuff!

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Modernist upstart?? Hey dude, I’m 54! Ha I’ve been involved with designing, building, testing various finless surf craft for over 30 years, out of wood, plastic and air.

It’s great to see representations of ancient boards being built and surfed. There is much of the old to be re- discovered and appreciated.

It’s also great to see the best of the old combined with the new. There are many things yet to be discovered and appreciated.

I love fins… and I love no fins! Wave riding is, and has always been, made up of various disciplines. There’s a lot of potential for freedom and fun, some really interesting things are happening all the time on which the surf media and industry does not focus.

Mainstream surfing is largely based on the lowest common denominator. So many surfers believe themselves to be open-minded, radical individualists, yet in practice they’re the exact opposite.

There’s a lot going on… even with a square, flat piece of plywood, streaking across a long wall.

Our greatest limitation is between our ears.

wonder how he was able to use that pic of DM for his sight?

WELL, I WILL BE DARNED.

The new TSJ has a big article on this very subject, penned by the one and only Derek Hynd, his own self. Insane, is what that is. Dale S is in there… EDIT: oh hey I see tis was mentioned yesterday on this thread, well shucks

Also an article about greener surfcraft, with wooden tings, and one Danny Hess, Paul Jensen getting mention…

I think I counted like 10 different Sways personnel getting mentions, quotes, etc…

Classic

No surprise there’s so many sways people in this issue TSJ.

I think Pez is one of us.

Viva la revolucione, or something like that…

Back to the island for a brief mat report…top of the page

http://safetosea.blogspot.com/

I’ve never really looked at those sketches indepth until now, and suddenly got really stoked! Does it strike anyone that picture 3 of janklow’s post show native surfers riding a broken wave (almost pulling a floater) across the top of the barrel! Picture 1 and possibly 2 seems to suggest that too. Is that what alaias and paipos are designed for by the ancients? Would they work well doing this? Does anyone think this is how surfing was pre missionarys before it was wiped out, or is that crazy talk!? It would be amazing to think that there is a whole other type of surfing thats not been explored in depth…

Just a guess but I bet it is an artifact of drawing tech and the limits of the artist. On the face perspective/depth etc much more tricky to draw well???

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Just to remind all these modernist upstarts like Dale, Derek etc that there’s others out there playing with the same stuff!

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Modernist upstart?? Hey dude, I’m 54! Ha I’ve been involved with designing, building, testing various finless surf craft for over 30 years, out of wood, plastic and air.

It’s great to see representations of ancient boards being built and surfed. There is much of the old to be re- discovered and appreciated.

It’s also great to see the best of the old combined with the new. There are many things yet to be discovered and appreciated.

I love fins… and I love no fins! Wave riding is, and has always been, made up of various disciplines. There’s a lot of potential for freedom and fun, some really interesting things are happening all the time on which the surf media and industry does not focus.

Mainstream surfing is largely based on the lowest common denominator. So many surfers believe themselves to be open-minded, radical individualists, yet in practice they’re the exact opposite.

There’s a lot going on… even with a square, flat piece of plywood, streaking across a long wall.

Our greatest limitation is between our ears.

Wow missed this one,

wonderfully expressed, thank you Dale