Happy B-day Ambrose. If you’re giving away presents on YOUR birthday I’ll take a 7-6 egg single fin with orange resin tint. Or, I’ll send you one. Mike
happy birthday . . thanks for the prose with meaning, a parody, or just laughter on this side of the ocean . . .
You know I won’t ever fully figure out this surfing thing. How can the simple act of participating in riding nature’s energy be so fulfilling? On somedays you can be king (queen if you’re a lady) of the liquid hill, and the next day, same conditions and be humbled like the God Son is. Or perhaps it is the crappiest session I’ve had, but come out of the water feeling fulfilled. I’ve had the most epic session and felt the same way. The only thing better than that is realizing Gods cool and cares for you.
Or how come some peope they try it, know it and walk away from it. While I can’t even think of not doing it?
Howzit hiroprotagonist, The way I understand it, our bodies build up positive ions and when you surf or are in rushing water you are in contact with negative ions which rid the body of the positive ions which in turn makes you feel so good. Standing under a waterfall ( careful of any rocks ) will build up the negative ions and give you a good feeling.Aloha,Kokua