nice game, and you Won! Good for you.
Good deal - Aqua ! Or good plan. FYI - the one I bought wasn’t in auction, but I did try bargainin! He was @ bout six hund, I fired out four hund…he fired back five c -notes…I just went for It. Why ? I don’t think there’s even a scratch on her! I think just a new blade/ blades need replacement? Cross n my fingers… I wish I could’ve found for less, but none I could find in time.
***** Today is my BIRTHDAY! ***** I’m 51! 
talk n about gambling, I’m heading out to play slot poker at the Casino!!! I hope I make a win!?!?
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Cool, I just picked one up (5.5 amp) for $200 off kijiji…works the tits…was worried I overpaid…SCORE!
First time it’s every been nice NOT to live in California.
Are there any other trades that prefer Skil 100s still or is it only surfboard shaping?
I’ve hung many doors, using my Skil 100 to trim the door. Later got a Bosch for my home carpentry needs. In these days of pre hung doors, few ‘‘carpenters’’ find the need for a tool like a Skil 100.
Bill
I’m a door hanger. I work for a high end finish carpentry company. Only about 1% of all the doors we do are prehung units. The Porter cable 126 is by far the best planer to use for shaving doors, as it is specificly designed for door edges, not surface planing. But these days as long as the door doen’t have raised moldings, I use a Festool track saw. I’ve heard that custom boat builders who do custom wood hull and wood working still favor the Skil 100.
Aloha Wavecraft,
You know you are in the minority, at your skill level. I’ve seen pro’s hang doors, and it is poetry in motion. My hat is off to you. You’re also correct about wood boat builders.
Bill
Doubled…
Any tips on how to free up the depth adjustment on it? Or do I just want to leave it alone? I thought I read sum guy’s bend a clicker back w screwdriver? I geuss I should get planer first, you know, so I know wth clicker is!? Dunno anything about it.
What paint can recommended for touch ups? 
let’s shape!
Aloha Jim,
To this day, I still use my Skil 100, as it came from the factory. I’ve never played with the detent/clicker on the front shoe, and I’ve shaped thousands of boards, in a high volume production setting. It’s what I got used to I suppose, but I really see no need for a hobbyist shaping an occasional board in the garage, to modify the planer in that way. I never had any issues with adjusting depth ‘‘on the fly’’, and I was shaping 8 to 10 boards per day. Shape a few boards with the planer, before you make that decission.
Bill
I learned how to shape with an unmodified skil. For a beginner it’s OK to leave as is. You aint gonna be able to cut on the fly worth a darn anyway. I taught one guy how to shape and he got a big ass block of styrofoam for free from a trucking company. He planed that thing down to nothing. He learned how to plane both direction and also to do a tapered cut on the fly. Made a huge mess but had fun. Just a thought
Thanks Bill, you know we love our Skil planers. Check out the 190 I recently refurbished. Now I’m about to start on a 676.
really!? Is the skil already pretty loose to begin with? Ok, so it’s not urgent, or really necessary to modify the clicker, or depth adjustment? Well, I want it modified. So what do I need to do to do this mod? Tia
ok…well, I’ll leave her stock for a mos or so. Then I will mod it if I can figure out what to do. Thanks Again! Get a Beer on me!
The Skil 100 is considered by many to be the Ferrari of planers. Owning a Ferrari, and DRIVING a Ferrari, are two very different things. Same is true of planers. Sounds like you want the planer ‘‘modified’’ because you think it’s cool, or makes you cool. What will make you cool, is to design and shape a superior performing surfboard, without a lot of chest thumping. Learn to drive the Ferrari, before you start souping it up. I’ve been weilding a Skil 100 for quite a few years. I did learn a few things along the way. I’m not trying to throw a wet blanket on your enthusiasm, but offer guidence, based on experience, that will help you develop your skill as a shaper. There really aren’t any shortcuts. We all had to learn to walk, before we were able to run.
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no, I do not care about being “cool”, or thinking it’s cool to have it modded. I just want less steps - which the OTF MODS enable… hopefully that makes sense.I just want it “loose” enough so that I can zero out on certain cuts; rails, rocker, kick etc…cross cutting…ty.
Well, LOOSE ENOUGH, is the way the planer came from the factory. Was there some part of shaping thousands of boards, in a high volume production setting, that you didn’t understand? It was routine for me to constantly adjust cut depth, on the fly. It was, and still is, easy to do with a dead stock planer. But, you’re going to do what you want to do, because you think it makes you more a more sophisticated shaper, IMO. But it won’t. Only experience will. In an earlier post, I recommended that you get a few boards under your belt, before you decide to tinker with the depth adjustment mechanism of the planer. That is still my recommendation.
The lever just spins on a screw.
May came with the clicker removed already.
If you want it to be looser,
Use it everyday.
It will loosen on its own.
Mine is as loose as a goose.
With a simple mod., it can cut up to 1/4".
Bill - THANKS AGAIN! I’ll take your word for it and leave it alone. Gentlemen, I got her in!!! It’s in good shape! Coord is good, adjustment works, fit n finish good, blades missing. So I need new blades is all.this sucker looks garaged for 25 yrs! SCORE.
That thing looks almost new. You scored !