my first eps foam core surfboard build

General Discussion
1

First i made 3 templates of the rocker with the cnc

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than i have been cutting my epc foam blok in haf

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then i cnc a mould to get my template in position on my eps core

 

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i do the same on the other side of the eps core

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now i have an eps block with the templates of my rocker alignt to each other on it.

i put numbers on it every 10 cm

now i wil use resistands wire to cut the eps core the right shape by folowing my templates

[[{“fid”:“107337”,“view_mode”:“default”,“fields”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“TEMPLATE on foam core cut out”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“TEMPLATE on foam core cut out”},“type”:“media”,“field_deltas”:{“6”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“TEMPLATE on foam core cut out”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“TEMPLATE on foam core cut out”}},“link_text”:null,“attributes”:{“alt”:“TEMPLATE on foam core cut out”,“title”:“TEMPLATE on foam core cut out”,“class”:“media-element file-default”,“data-delta”:“6”}}]]

now i do the same with my other haf of the eps blok

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after this i take my 3rd rocker template and put it in the midle as an stinger

than i glue everything together

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now its time to do the outline

i design my outline and cut it out with the cnc

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2

Excellent very clever , unfortunately not many folks on Sways have a CNC machine tucked away in their garage

3

Been shaping EPS shince 1985. Can’t wait to get to your level of tech.

 

4

Thanks for posting Bjorn.

I don’t always use CNC for templates, but when I do…my router is only 60x60cm (2x2 feet) so I have to join pieces together. I start in BoardCAD and output the DXF files and take them into Draftsight to the extra work for making the smaller pieces. I also do the same for making a spin template.

For me the toughest part is gluing in the stringer on longer boards and SUP’s. My last couple builds have been stringerless.

I built small hotwire tools to cut out the outline and to cut the first deck band (Dave Daum style) and the small band on the bottom.

Looking forward to seeing more build pictures from this!

5

now i take a big longblok and sand my whole blank straigt again

 

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6

for the outline i stick mij tamplate on my blank and cut it out with a hot wire

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this is the tool i use

[[{“fid”:“107355”,“view_mode”:“default”,“fields”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“hot wire tool”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“hot wire tool”},“type”:“media”,“field_deltas”:{“2”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“hot wire tool”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“hot wire tool”}},“link_text”:null,“attributes”:{“alt”:“hot wire tool”,“title”:“hot wire tool”,“class”:“media-element file-default”,“data-delta”:“2”}}]]

i nitised that my eps blank is very fragile so i pimpt my stand a litle bit

[[{“fid”:“107356”,“view_mode”:“default”,“fields”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“board stand”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“board stand”},“type”:“media”,“field_deltas”:{“3”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“board stand”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“board stand”}},“link_text”:null,“attributes”:{“alt”:“board stand”,“title”:“board stand”,“class”:“media-element file-default”,“data-delta”:“3”}}]][[{“fid”:“107357”,“view_mode”:“default”,“fields”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“board”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“board”},“type”:“media”,“field_deltas”:{“4”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“board”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“board”}},“link_text”:null,“attributes”:{“alt”:“board”,“title”:“board”,“class”:“media-element file-default”,“data-delta”:“4”}}]]

than after this i need to start shaping witch i never have done bevore

so i gues im gona be watching a lot of youtube bevore i start on this

7

Nice story. I like your use of a form to locate your templates on the EPS.

Apart from the form that’s pretty much the way I’ve been doing it since I built my CNC.

I can skip the outline step beacuse I cut the board directly on my CNC, but I generally cut an outliine so that I can refine some curves by hand (i.e. fix mistakes).

I use masonite for templates and ply for stringers. The ply splinters are a pain for templates.

8

If anyone wants to try using a CNC there are usually some dotted around the country for hire.

When I do this I always end up with lines after the hotwiring. Not a big deal… just wonder how people manage to make it look so clean first time. 

9

[[{“fid”:“107408”,“view_mode”:“default”,“fields”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”},“type”:“media”,“field_deltas”:{“1”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”}},“link_text”:null,“attributes”:{“alt”:“shaping”,“title”:“shaping”,“class”:“media-element file-default”,“data-delta”:“1”}}]]

 

i was a litle scared of the shaping so i desided to use my outline template to make some guiding lines on my board

than i used the plainer and than longbloks to shape along my lines witch luckily worked out wel

[[{“fid”:“107409”,“view_mode”:“default”,“fields”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”},“type”:“media”,“field_deltas”:{“2”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”}},“link_text”:null,“attributes”:{“alt”:“shaping”,“title”:“shaping”,“class”:“media-element file-default”,“data-delta”:“2”}}]][[{“fid”:“107410”,“view_mode”:“default”,“fields”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”},“type”:“media”,“field_deltas”:{“3”:{“format”:“default”,“alignment”:“”,“field_file_image_alt_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”,“field_file_image_title_text[und][0][value]”:“shaping”}},“link_text”:null,“attributes”:{“alt”:“shaping”,“title”:“shaping”,“class”:“media-element file-default”,“data-delta”:“3”}}]]

than i used sanding paper on ah flexible plastic (pvc sheets) witch realy helped me to shape my dek down to how i wanted it.

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if u read this and have any tips for the shaping please let me know, cause this is stil realy a grey area for me

10

on the picture u dont realy se it but i did ended up with some lines on it.

I sanded the edges of my template with grid 600 paper wich helped.

the lines were realy easy to get of with a longblok like u se on my picture

11

this is the pvc sheat i use for sanding it realy helps me making a fluid shape

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tah i draw out how round i want my rail

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than i sand al my edges round with the pvc and a fine grit cause im scared of damaging my board

than i need to do my botom

i want single to duble concave

i desided to firsty sand the duble on the back with a sanding paper on a spunge

than i do the sinle concave with a plainer cause i need to adjust the stinger aswel witch doesnt go with just sanding it

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it was realy scary going with the plainer on my nicley shaped board but luckaly it went weland i thing it was the best way to do it

than i use the pvc again to sand it al in a nice concave

after this i can start with my fins

12

i bought fcs fuision finboxes cause they lookt a lot more solid than the standart fcs plugs

onley problem was i needed a tamplate to cut the holes out my board

i made the tamplate with the cnc again cause the originals were realy expensife

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so now i instaled my finboxes

last time i worked with epoxy was some time ago and i mixed my epoxy wrong (duble the amound of hardner)

so i had to take my finboxes out again luckely with duble the hardner ur epoxy stays sticky so i could get every thing out

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onley the spunches of my plug were soaked with my wrongly mixed epoxy so i had to re make them

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i made them again with my cnc out of hard foam with worked fine

now i can stard laminating my botom

i use 160 gr cloth witch is a litle more than 6 oz (i do the oz times 28 to know the grams)

i also printed logos on some rice paper

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13

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14

i need to remake me a cnc… 160gr/m2 is 5oz/sqf it’s weight by surface conversion. what’s call 6oz is in reality more often around 5,5 to 5,7 and it’s 200gr/m2. Seal foam before lam it’ll help you a lot to make à nice tight lam

15

Bjorn, the build looks really good and nice job fixing the issue with the fin boxes. The rice paper lams are cute too.

Assuming actual oz/sqyd is accurate &1 SM=1.196 sqyd & 28.35 G=1 oz

4oz/sqyd nominal=3.7oz/sqyd actual=120GSM nominal=125GSM converted

6oz/sqyd nomnal=5.7oz/sqyd actual=200GSM nominal=193GSM converted

Or you skip the math and use a chart: https://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/Fiberglass_Fabrics_Data.pdf

 

16

bevore i red his useful reply abofe i already continued with witch i thought 2x 160 gr up 1x 160 botom

IMG_20190114_151823.jpg

IMG_20190116_151336.jpg

after glasing i found out my board was way to soft and not strong enough.

It took me like 2 weeks ti figure out wat i did wring. i found out the shop i bought my glas cloth from gave me the wrong cloth.

If i weight my clot it was around 110 grams al lot les than 160 gr!

so i put mor cloth after i sanded my hotcoat

Now something weird happend because of the air koming out of a sand through the was a huge air buble under my glas cloth!

IMG_20190125_130129.jpg

IMG_20190125_140512.jpg

i put ah holein the buble and lowerd the heater so the board coult cool down this helped.

 

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17

It´s coming along nicely. Good craftsmanship.

Thanks for sharing the work in progress pictures and stories.

Love the use of the CNC for the templates and the other stuff.

Those are not FCS plugs.

Those are the cheap and crappy chinese copies.

(no FCS logo, detachable foam, honey coloured foam - the original plugs have the logo, white foam and the foam is fused with the plastic body)

The crappy copies take more resin to install, the detachable foam makes a very weak link to the plastic body, the plastic bonds not as nicely as the original and the plastics melts much earlier when sanding.

In my opinion, it´s not worth saving on the plugs. You put a lot of effort in a board and end up with a potential weaker finplug that might cause you some extra work or fixing sooner or later.

( I work with FCS fusion and FCS II plugs, but once I ordered a set of the cheap copies an made some tests, glued them into leftover foam and put some glas over them. After that they went into the bin.)

Edit:

I noticed you´re from Alkmaar. You can get the FCS Fusions from seabase UK or even in Scheveningen at the surfhuis (http://surfhuis.nl/).

Julian has always a couple of FCS Fusions in stock in his nice little shop.

I know the original Fusion plugs are quite expensive for us europeans. But for me saving 20€ (on a thruster set) is not worth all the hassle with the fake plugs.

 

 

 

18

Love this whole EPS build from scratch! Technology meets passion!

We’re looking for a new CNC guy if you want to move to New Jersey and run our custom 14’ router and glue up blanks all day. Free beer after the work day is done…Haha

19

thanks for the comment,

Im realy not happy with the result if got from this plugs and i also would recoment every body not to use fake fcs plugs.

Thanks for the link u sent me my next boards are comming up and those wil defenetly have origional fcs plugs.