I’ve been very interested in all the recent talk about hulls, and have had the opportunity to ride a few (6’-4" Liddle, 6’-8" Liddle, 7’-4" Liddle). All of these boards surfed distinctively different, and left me wanting to know how a shorter version would work. I decided to make a 6’ version inspired by the Fineline Geebee, and MP. The bottom of the board is hulled out with a slight V in the tail. The board is glassed with double 4oz on top and single 4oz on bottom, with a 10" box 10" up from the tail. The final dimensions of the board are 6’ x 23" x 18" tail x 20" nose.
Looks good Rob , how does it GO?
RadRob,
You forgot to mention about the step nose and tail! Pretty rad shape job without shaping it in a “real” shape room with side lighting. NICE JOB.
Keep it up.
Brad
The board is super fast, but harder to turn than any of the other hulls i’ve tried. Do you have any idea why that might be?
nice job! could be fin and/or placement…
any way to get a photo of the bottom shape and deck roll? (rail to rail) as well as rocker?
the bottom and deck shape could have a bit to do with why its harder to put on rail.
looks good from here though!
you work at Foam EZ? ya lucky b#@#d.
Nice-looking stubby. does it get into waves easy?
I saw Rad Rob out during the maiden voyage. The lil’ UFO looked insanely fast!!!
It kind of reminded me of this link(starting at 1 min. 30 seconds or so): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo58oWW09qQ
Thanks, getting into waves is kind of hard.I’ve only surfed it at Bolsa Chica, I want to see how it goes at a point break.
yeah that’s was my exp with my GL pointbreaker… but now that i’ve been riding it a bit, i paddle way further up than i did on other boards. get in the right spot and start paddling, and as yr getting sucked up the face the nose breaks free, and a few pulls gets me in…
…that’s the one pisser about hulls… i wish they’d paddle better. i woulda thought such flat rocker would make it easy.
I’ve tried the 9" L-Flex, as well as the 9" L-Flex B.I probably need to move it around some and see what works.
I’ve made a couple similar outlines and a 8.5 inch deep Liddle or Greenough pushed all the way back ended up working the best. Over-finning tends to stiffen the whole deal up. Hard to roll from rail to rail.
It’s the fact that the board is moving in the water, not on the water. But once you have wave power then the board will turn on.
That’s why a lot of people cannot handle them, you have to be a better paddler.
I just wish that all that paddling would help me lose weight. Bahahahaha!
BTW, good looking board, RadRob.
Thanks, I was running the fin pretty far forward. I’m going to take it out tomorrow and push the fin back.
Difficulty turning might be due to the extreme fatness in the tail, along with the diamond shape, which lets the rail line go all the way back, keeping all that width to the end. I think you see a lot of rounded tails on hulls because it removes some of the surface area and shortens the rail line.
start it out at 12" as measured from tail to trailing edge, then start moving it up bit by bit. somewhere between 12 and 13.5" will be the magic spot.
I just finished shaping my second hull.Any thoughts or ideas before I glass it?
Outline looks great! Hard to tell from the photos but…Suicide nose. Very little nose rocker and a beak is going to be unforgiving. If it were mine, I would probably cut the nose back to the top of the beak, then blend the bottom to a upturned or neutral rail. That might buy you an inch of nose rocker.
The rails look beyond knifey…Steve would approve! For the rest of us mortals, you might think of dulling them a bit.
Comments are based on the second photo and photos lie. So take my crap for what it’s worth.
Love the outline. I agree with LeeV about fine tuning the nose.
Looks Bitchin’.
Wow! Cool board–hey, where the heck did you get the materials for to make that crazy thing?